Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Check Engine Light / Runs Really Rough
Nov 6, 2011
I started my Accent this a.m. The Check Engine Light is on and it runs really rough. I left it here at my apartment - it's that bad. It's got 27k miles.
The only other thing to note is that it's been very cold (for Northern California anyway) - around 45 degrees F right now.
First-time poster, haven't had any problems with the accent except for a sun visor that was replaced under warranty last week. All scheduled services done at the Hyundai dealer.
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
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I just bought this car from the original owner. She didn't take that great of care of the car. First oil change was done at 8,000 miles for example. Basically if it was broken she would fix it, but didn't do much preventative maintenance.
I just replaced all 4 spark plugs and coils since one was misfiring and didn't want to have to go back in and replace one in another few months. Replaced the AC belt a few days ago since it was cracked and worn. All other belts are fine. I drove the car around for a few hours the next day and it ran great.
Today, the check engine light flashes and then stays on. The car is idling rough at stop lights and acceleration is poor. Previously, the light came on and it was the EVAP system. Not sure which component and I was told it isn't supposed to affect the way the car drives.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
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I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
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This morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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My check engine light has been on for months and the only code coming up is for the VSS. I got the VSS replaced and the light came back on as soon as I hit 70 on the freeway. Checked the code again and the same one came up. Is this a common issue with 06 Accents? I'm wondering if it might be a wiring or computer issue... My ABS light is also on, would this have anything to do with it?
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I just bought a used 2009 Accent. After a few months, I had it in for an oil change and the mechanic said there was NO air filter even installed in the car. Obviously I know enough that I need one, so I had one put in. Within a few miles of doing that, the check engine light came on. I took it to autozone and it gave error P0172 which appears to be an oxygen sensor. I would really like to know if it's possible the previous owner took the air filter out on purpose because they knew that the check engine light would come on if they put one in.... etc?
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Today the CEL on my 2010 HB with 30,000km came on and the car ran rough like it had a bad spark plug. I went straight home and luckily had a set on hand and replaced them. Car now runs like before but the CEL is still on.
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I just bought a Hyundai Accent 08, and the check engine light has been coming on after I put gas in the car, it doesn't run poorly, it only happens after I put gas in the car. and usually after I drive it a while after. Not sure what is going on?
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I have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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I did a spirited sprint from a stop light and then got this cel. It says it's for the second 02 sensor. I got home, jacked it up and checked it out. Everything looked, sounded, smelled, ran fine. What should I do?
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Our second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
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So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
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Rough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
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It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
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For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
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