Accent MC (2006-11) :: Check Engine Light Came On / Car Turns Off But No Codes
May 1, 2013
Our second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
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So I have an issue with my 2004 Elantra GT. I failed inspection because my CEL never turns on. Even when first starting the car. I originally had thought the bulb was burnt out, but it started working fine on its own a couple weeks ago. Then 2 days ago, it stopped working again. So, where should I start in finding the problem? I had a radio installed a couple of years ago, and I have had issues since. Like, my odometer button no longer works, and the radio will occasionally reset when I start the car. So maybe I should remove the dash fascia and see if there are any loose or unplugged wires?
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The light just came on in my 06 Sonata 3.3L, showing many codes... P0171B, P0172B, P2187, P2188, P0174B, P0175B, P2189, and P2190. All of these just came on at once, within the last hour. Everything that is stated is regarding Too Lean or Too Rich on Bank's 1 & 2. Where to start on this...
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My check engine light popped up the other day and when ran, 3 codes popped up: p2414, p2195, and p0170. From what I could gather it looks to be the O2 sensor is bad. This would be the one on the exhaust manifold, correct?
Also, what would cause the o2 sensor to go bad in the first place? My 09' has roughly 65k miles.
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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We have Elantra - 4 Door sedan 2006 model. We have not driven much; about 23000 miles. All of a sudden we got Check Engine Light ON. I took the car and got it tested at Pep Boys to get codes. It came out as PO700 and PO885.
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Car keeps tripping P0885 P0890 codes and sets engine light on. I've tried swapping ATN relay and cleaning connector in TCM and Relay box. It's intermittent comes on at least every other day. Shifts fine when engine light reset. But when the P0885 comes up it goes into limp mode. Just bought this car We bought an after market warranty but shop say they won't cover Engine light codes or intermittent.
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Kia rio 2006 130461 today I went and got gas right when I pulled out light began to flash and car shaking went to auto zone codes p0302 and p0326. I had knock senor changed 2 months ago . What could be the problem the guy said I just need a tune up . Is this true ? Is my car safe to drive car not shaking now and no changes in function of my car. There no way I can any one to look at it for couple begin tomorrow sunday.
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I just picked up my 'new'/used 2006 sonata! unfortunately, about 11 months in now, i have a check engine light and some codes; a local store told me what the codes were (i haven't got a code reader yet) and as i was researching them it sounds like either a bad O2 sensor or just the wiring going to it.?.? Codes are P0160, P2273, P0158. How can i tell what is actually bad? I am 'ok' at 'fixing'; just trying to save from an expensive garage repair if at all possible.
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This morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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My check engine light has been on for months and the only code coming up is for the VSS. I got the VSS replaced and the light came back on as soon as I hit 70 on the freeway. Checked the code again and the same one came up. Is this a common issue with 06 Accents? I'm wondering if it might be a wiring or computer issue... My ABS light is also on, would this have anything to do with it?
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I just bought a used 2009 Accent. After a few months, I had it in for an oil change and the mechanic said there was NO air filter even installed in the car. Obviously I know enough that I need one, so I had one put in. Within a few miles of doing that, the check engine light came on. I took it to autozone and it gave error P0172 which appears to be an oxygen sensor. I would really like to know if it's possible the previous owner took the air filter out on purpose because they knew that the check engine light would come on if they put one in.... etc?
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Today the CEL on my 2010 HB with 30,000km came on and the car ran rough like it had a bad spark plug. I went straight home and luckily had a set on hand and replaced them. Car now runs like before but the CEL is still on.
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I just bought a Hyundai Accent 08, and the check engine light has been coming on after I put gas in the car, it doesn't run poorly, it only happens after I put gas in the car. and usually after I drive it a while after. Not sure what is going on?
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I have a check engine and air bag light that stays on. I was told if I dis-connect the battery, it will clear the codes. I need an inspection and I'm short of time.
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2007 accent GS check engine light will not come on the instrument panel. Showing a 650 code. What is wrong?
I bought the car a year ago. No check engine light? Could someone have dismantled the light?
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I did a spirited sprint from a stop light and then got this cel. It says it's for the second 02 sensor. I got home, jacked it up and checked it out. Everything looked, sounded, smelled, ran fine. What should I do?
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So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
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