Accent LC (2000-05) :: Started Kind Of Rough Then Knocking / Tapping
Dec 3, 2012
I own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
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It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
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Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
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For about the last month or so my car has been making a strange thumping kind of sound that is constant with vehicle speed. slow or fast. changed the rotors, pads, hardware, shoes and machined drums. also has a slight pulsation when coming to a stop. Thought it was the tires but they look good. can not find anything wrong.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent. Bought the car used at a lien sale over 3 years ago, with about 120k miles on it... it now has over 197k miles on it. I have changed the oil and filter religiously since I bought it, using Castrol GTX High mileage 5w30 synthetic motor oil. I have also (in the last year) replaced the plugs with platinum plugs, the plug wires, and the air filter. A the car has always made a tapping sound when idling since I bought it, but recently (in the last week), it makes little shoemaker sounds when I accelerate. I used to associate this with detonation and adjust timing (back in the day when you could put a timing light on a car and turn the distributor to set timing). Since timing is now controlled by the computer in the car, am I right in assuming that I need to replace the timing belt?
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I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
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Car ran dangerously low on oil (oil leak that we didn't know was present) and started knocking quite badly.
I pulled the valve cover to check the lifters and everything seemed fine up top. I tried to drop the oil pan but I couldn't get it to separate from the block.
If I can remove the oil pan are the main and rod bearings that hard to change or do they require special tools?
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Where the knocking sensor is located on a 2005 Accent. I am in need of finding it so that i can wire a controller into the signal wire?
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But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
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This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
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I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with 52000Km (32932miles) The car was parked since 2011 and now when I started it, it started really rough and would not accelerate (it would die if i pressed the acceleration pedal) but now after multiple attempts the car sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't unless I press the acceleration pedal when starting the car then the car revs to 2000rpm and dies within 1-2seconds,I also hear a odd sound from the intake its like a loud rumble. So far I have tried
- changing the spark plugs
- changing the coils
- checked spark
- cleaned intake manifold
- cleaned throttle body
- replaced PCV valve (because originally there was alot of oil in the intake)
- checked if fuel pump is pumping gas
I also checked the engine codes and there is a code for crankshaft position sensor abnormal -P0336 I unplugged the crankshaft sensor and the car wont start at all further more I also checked if it was sending the correct rpms with my obd tool and it seems like it is ...
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
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Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
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Just got my 2013 CPO GS350 and love it. I did notice this morning a tapping or ticking noise, like a diesel engine would make, as the car warmed up. Anything to be concerned about or can that be normal for a GS? Also, are there any recalls or TSBs I should check into for this car?
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I have a Manual 2003 Mitsubishi OZ Rally Lancer. She was sitting for awhile due to the main cylinder causing issues for the clutch, which is now fixed. But I noticed the other day that whenever I press the gas there's a tap noise for a second and goes away, it happens every time I put my foot on the gas. The sound is like someone tapping there foot on tile floor. I can also feel the tap noise.
I'm not sure what it could be. I know the passenger front tire is tinking when I drive around, which I'm getting fixed this afternoon, but what could be causing this noise when I accelerate and how urgent would it need to be fixed?
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I have a 2000 Ls 3.9 V8 125,000 miles that started idling rough.I checked for codes and got p0171 (bank 1 lean), p0175 (bank 2 rich) and p0307(cylinder 7 misfire). I swapped cop and sparkplug from cylinder 7 to cylinder 5 and erased the codes.I ran the engine for a while and rechecked the codes to see if the misfire followed the cop and plug. They did not. I still get p0171,p0175 and p0307 (cylinder 7 misfire).
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I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
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