Accent RB (2012+) :: Car Started To Surge / Rough Acceleration Or Idle
Dec 8, 2012
While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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I have a 2008 Accent SE and I'm having some issues... The car was driving fine the other day all the sudden check engine light came on started flashing then and just stayed on. This happen before and the car was under warranty so the dealership fixed it but now it ran out and it's happening again. Anyway the car is running very rough at idle like the car shakes and acts like it doesn't want to run. Also when driving it honestly feels like the car has no power or acceleration what so ever. I replaced the air filter with a brand new K&N filter, I also changed the spark plugs today. I put NGK's in and the problem is still the same. I had it hooked to a code reader and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 2. I thought the plugs would have fixed it but I guess not.
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I'm an Accent 2000 gs owner and since a few days i had this problem. It has a bad idle and looks like it will stall... need to give some gas to stay alive.
Bad acceleration too, it misses some gas. (puffing, rumbling, shaking a bit). After accel, it's ok until the next red light.
Now I can't even drive cause it's worse. (too difficult to accelerate). Is it a sensor?
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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I bought my 2012 Accent a few months ago. I have been noticing that when its cold it has a bit of a rough idle. Nothing bad, no reving, but just a general mild shaking. No check engine light either. It happens in park, reverse, neutral, and drive. It stops and runs smooth after a few mins of driving. Since I bought it I have been using Top Tier gas and a bottle of gumout at oil change. Could it be just the way the engine is, since it is a small 4cyl? Like I said its not bad or affecting the way it drives, just seems strange to me.
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Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
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So I've had my car for just a little over 3 years and it has 28,000 miles on it. I always use Shell gas and fill it up before it goes under the quarter tank mark every time. I take very good care of it, and I've loved it. I constantly get upper 30 mpg in city driving and mid to upper 40s on highway.
Recently, I have had an issue where for the past week. One morning, it started rough and got bad mpg for a few mins until the engine "burped" (best way I can describe it). Then it was fine.
I felt this same surge or "burp" 2 times after that. It doesn't speed up or anything, the RPMs drop for a second and come back up as if something is pulling power away. I still get amazing gas milage (39.2mpg and I filled up 2 days ago). It just surges. I don't understand. I take very good care of it! I looked online and apparently its an issue that some others are having. What could it be?
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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My Accent has 89000km (about 54000 miles) and has been pinging under acceleration...tried higher octane gas with no improvement.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with 52000Km (32932miles) The car was parked since 2011 and now when I started it, it started really rough and would not accelerate (it would die if i pressed the acceleration pedal) but now after multiple attempts the car sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't unless I press the acceleration pedal when starting the car then the car revs to 2000rpm and dies within 1-2seconds,I also hear a odd sound from the intake its like a loud rumble. So far I have tried
- changing the spark plugs
- changing the coils
- checked spark
- cleaned intake manifold
- cleaned throttle body
- replaced PCV valve (because originally there was alot of oil in the intake)
- checked if fuel pump is pumping gas
I also checked the engine codes and there is a code for crankshaft position sensor abnormal -P0336 I unplugged the crankshaft sensor and the car wont start at all further more I also checked if it was sending the correct rpms with my obd tool and it seems like it is ...
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I own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
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I have a 07 Explorer with the 4.6 that just developed a problem. It has 75,000 on it and has all of sudden started shaking at idle and acceleration. The acceleration issue doesn't seem to occur until after 45mph. I have cleaned air filter and MAF sensor. Still need to put a code reader on it. Where to start troubleshooting.
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I have been experiencing pinging and crackling noises on acceleration from my vehicle it was purchased from the dealers May 2012. The problems started in October and I have been back and forth with the dealers for the same problems over and over and getting additional problems. Not to mention they keep saying that the problem is fixed and as I leave the compound I hear the noises.
I took it to have an independent scan from the dealer as it is now 5 months of run around with the issue not being resolved and I found out I have a bad ac compressor, steering rack and shock mount.
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My gfs car (2012 accent) makes a rattle but more specifically it makes this rattle in about 3 gear under acceleration but not heavy acceleration (slow accelerate in a higher gear) at about 1500-2k rpm it makes a rattle and if i really get on it in the gear it keeps going, the second i let off then get back on (lightly) no noise but when you depress the pedal a little hard it does it again (auto trans by the way) I've heard of this before only issue is I don't remember where or who (useless, and wasn't a hyundai accent) anyway anything would be useful, car isn't under warranty so trying to stay out of dealership...
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I recently bought a 1992 Celica GT with 250k miles on it. It has a rough idle and a couple other things that may or may not be stemming from the same thing that's causing the rough idle
Like I said, it has a rough idle and there is a bit of jerking sometimes during acceleration. The exhaust makes sort of a "put-put-put" or "chirping" sound at lower RPMs and the frequency of the sound corresponds to the engine RPM. I do know of a couple things that could be causing the rough idle and maybe even the jerking, but I'm not sure about the sound from the exhaust.
The cooling fans are hard wired to the ignition so they run constantly, so when it's cold out like it is right now it takes forever for the engine to warm up. Is there a switch somewhere that they are supposed to be wired through? Where would that be? Also, the previous owner did kind of a hack job of putting on a cold air intake and I think I may be missing some sensors, especially because it seems to burn more fuel than it should. What sensors are located on the air intake, or are there even some in the stock airbox itself? And would this possibly be contributing to the rough idle and the jerking?
Also, I do get some vibrations when stopped at idle so I think I may want to replace the motor mounts.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with the 1.6L in-line 4 cylinder engine w/ 160K miles. Over the last few months, I have noticed that when I run the A/C, the car has been at idle for a while, like at a stop light or in park at idle, and I have been driving the car for awhile in the afternoon (summer here), the engine sputters and hesitates on acceleration. The engine makes a pinging, sounds as if it's misfiring and then bolts like lightening, especially when I turn the A/C off. The mpg has declined. I barely get 21 mpg. The car does not have an inline fuel filter, only the "sock" in the tank. I have changed the spark plugs, plugs wires and have run two cans of Sea Foam FI cleaner through the fuel system and the problem still persists.
I am clueless to what could be causing this other than my injectors are still dirty and need a heavy duty cleaning. Could it be an alternator problem because I have noticed the dash lights and headlights get brighter. Could the ignition coil be going out. The car idles fine and the problem disappears when I shut the A/C off and only seems to do this when the weather is hot!
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I have a 2005 Accent with just over 35,000 miles on. Last night (in extreme cold here in Chicago), the car started running loud. Loud on start, idle, and acceleration - normal when maintaining speed, even at highway speed.
Since the loud sound first started, I have driven about 100 miles (had to for work, no choice). The sound is pretty much the same - definitely in the front end, and the best way I can describe it is a much louder version of the normal sounds you would hear - idle sound but louder, acceleration sound but louder, etc.
No warning lights have come on, car hasn't shown any signs of overheating on the gauges, etc. I had a somewhat similar issue with an old '99 Saturn SL2 w/ 115,000 miles - but in that instance the flex pipe had corroded and completely separated from the rest of the exhaust system.
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Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
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