Accent RB (2012+) :: Pinging And Crackling Noises On Acceleration
Feb 14, 2013
I have been experiencing pinging and crackling noises on acceleration from my vehicle it was purchased from the dealers May 2012. The problems started in October and I have been back and forth with the dealers for the same problems over and over and getting additional problems. Not to mention they keep saying that the problem is fixed and as I leave the compound I hear the noises.
I took it to have an independent scan from the dealer as it is now 5 months of run around with the issue not being resolved and I found out I have a bad ac compressor, steering rack and shock mount.
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My Accent has 89000km (about 54000 miles) and has been pinging under acceleration...tried higher octane gas with no improvement.
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2006 LS V8: Looks like the driver's side window regulator broke this morning. On the way up, it made a couple of "crackling" noises and stopped. Window goes down but not up. I hear a slight hum of the motor when pushing the up button.
Looking at replacement parts, some offer with motor and some without. There is a youtube video showing the procedure for a 2000 LS Passenger Side. I assume the procedure for mine is similar.
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I have a 2014 passat 1.8 tsi comfort line about 7 months old. And i have some questions about it. Does warranty cover interior quality? cuz there are loud crackling noises while driving on normal roads. and recently since it snowed the crackling became much more noticeable and loud, really annoying.
In the morning backing out of the driving way, the breaks squeak in a really high pitch sound, the dealership told me it is normal but it got louder than when i first got it. Seems like its a normal problem for most, but is there a way to reduce the noise? i get its cleaning the brakes but its mad loud.
So driving in the snow the brakes get really bumpy, is that abs or is it like crushing snow? just sorta scary feeling.
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I finally bought our first Lexus - a slightly used 2007 RX350 (early VIN - manufactured in Feb. 2006). We are hearing some faint crackling/rattling noises from our instrument panel/steering column after applying the brakes with the car idling at a complete stop. It will crackle and rattle for about 15 seconds and then disappear until I apply the brakes again.
We had a 2008 RX350 loaner the other day and I didn't hear this noise.
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My gfs car (2012 accent) makes a rattle but more specifically it makes this rattle in about 3 gear under acceleration but not heavy acceleration (slow accelerate in a higher gear) at about 1500-2k rpm it makes a rattle and if i really get on it in the gear it keeps going, the second i let off then get back on (lightly) no noise but when you depress the pedal a little hard it does it again (auto trans by the way) I've heard of this before only issue is I don't remember where or who (useless, and wasn't a hyundai accent) anyway anything would be useful, car isn't under warranty so trying to stay out of dealership...
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Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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I have a 98 Toyota 4Runner, which just started what I'm told is pinging or knocking on "hard accelerations", like accelerating on the merge lane when I see cars coming up behind me in the lane I want to merge into, or going uphill. i have 258,000 miles, and have the SUV serviced regularly and get things fixed when they need it. I told the dealer about it a month ago when I had regular servicing, and he did something to clean the fuel injector, and suggested I try 89 octane (he specifically recommended Sunoco), and if that worked I could try going back to 87 octane (Sunoco was his recommendation again). I did as he suggested, and the pinging/knocking seemed to get better with 89, but returned with 87. I read the Q&A on this, but still have questions. Why did this just start after 14 years? Should I do anything about, in other words is it harmful? If so, what should I do? Does the brand of gasoline have anything to do with this, or anything else for that matter? I am hoping to keep the SUV for a couple more years (300,000 miles), maybe longer.
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Our 2007 Ford Ranger PJ 4x4 3L diesel automatic pings slightly on acceleration when the engine is not loaded. When pulling a caravan it pings very badly for an extended time. I release the throttle slightly to stop the pinging. If the EGR is not functioning, engine light on and scan tool displaying code 2143, there is no sign of a ping under any conditions. I did need to replace the Timing Reference Sensor on the flywheel housing due to a fault.
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I'm having a problem with my Prius. It pings under acceleration and it sounds like something metallic is rattling. It only happens when I use 87 and 89 oct. I use 91 premium to reduce the ping however, gas prices are rising and I want to go back to 87. There are no warning lights or anything and the ping has been happening for quite some time now.
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So my 2012 GTI (2DR/6spd/Nav) has a crackling/static sound coming out of the passenger vent.
I took off the vent and the side panel of the dash and took a look around, and can't find anything that causes the sound. It's sounds like static, and it pops and crackles.
It happens particularly on rough roads, and it's driving me insane! I wouldn't mind it so much if I knew what was causing it.
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I have had my 2010 Accent just over 2 months now, and have had no problems at all. It has 4500 miles on it (I travel often)
Starting on Monday, when I shut the car off, it made a kind of hollow pinging noise. I have not switched where I fill up my tank, nor have I been driving any differently, to make this happen. This happened again Tuesday morning, but has not happened since.
Then, this morning (Thursday) when I started my car, it made kind of a screeching noise. I immediately shut off the car, and restarted it. I did not hear the noise again. Then tonight, same thing happened.
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My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry le and for some reason it's been pinging on low RPMs. I've tried octane boosts and a cleaner and for some reason it's has the problem.
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2012 2.5l engine pings softly when I accelerate from a stop. I reported this at my last dealer service and the service manager recommended using Top Tier gas. He said it would take a few tanks to clean everything out. I'm happy to report that the car accelerates much more smoothly and my mileage has improved marginally. But the ping still exists. Engine is not throwing any codes (no check engine light).
On another note, the engine makes a growling sound on cold starts. I did some digging and found a TSB that addresses that issue. Could the engine pinging be related? I have about 4k miles before the bumper-to-bumper warranty runs out.
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2012 F150 5.0L ... Running the stage 3 motorsports Tune on the SCT X4 device ... Noticed higher gear while going up a hill the motor is Pinging. Running 89 Sunoco fuel for two fill ups in a row and I have the 89 Performance tune loaded. It would not surprise me if the Gas station is selling 87 for the 89 Price!
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My 2004 Volvo S60 has 99,000 miles on it. Just today it started making a quiet noise like an electric golf cart when I accelerate. Also just today it developed a quiet grinding noise when I turn the wheels (but only if the car is moving). I just had a clutch replaced by on the a/c compressor and I have my car serviced according to schedule. What the problem(s) could be?
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I have an '04 TRD Doublecab 4x4. I first started hearing a "clunk" upon acceleration, but only occasionally. It started getting worse and would happen pretty much every time I accelerate (although it never got louder, just more frequent). It usually only happens after a full stop (or near stop like in stop an go traffic), and I'd hear it pretty much right when I step on the gas. It seems like it has something to do with the A arms moving forward and back. When you accel, the rear wheels push the vehicle, essentially "sucking" the front wheels back slightly. When in 4wd, the noise is still there. It is quite obvious it's coming from the front right corner. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, so I decided to swap the upper A-arm bushings and upper ball joint (ball joint was leaking grease). Noise is still there. I ran out of time/motivation, so I took it to the Toyota dealer.
Here's what they did: -replaced front right coil-over, said it was "loose". That didn't work, so they put the old one back on. -tightened bumper etc..., didn't work. -then they removed the REAR drive-line and put it in 4x4 and drove it around. They say that "fixed" the problem since the noise went away. They were pretty adamant it was the drive line, but I didn't believe them since the noise is OBVIOUSLY coming from the front right. It just seems odd that it'd be the drive line. I took it home and tried what they said, I took the drive line off and drove it around in 4wd. They weren't lying, the noise went away. But since a good friend has an identical truck (but an '03) I switched our drive lines and the noise came back (HA! I was right!!). Driving in "front wheel drive" (no drive line) makes the front wheels "pull" the truck forward, vs in rear wheel drive, the rear wheels "push" the truck, and thus the front wheels will move backward slightly because of wheel/bearing friction.
I think it has something to do with when the front wheel is forced "backwards" but as far as I cal tell, all the suspension components are intact and show no signs of looseness. I can now occasionally hear the noise when under slight accel going over studder bumps like street reflectors or something (but only rarely, it's almost impossible to duplicate that on command. Makes me think a suspension piece is loose (shock/spring or loose bushing), but I NEVER hear the noise under braking, and rarely hear it on those studder bumps (and only for a split second). If it were a loose bushing, wouldn't I hear the clunk under accel AND decel (A arm moving back and forth)??? So I'm basically stumped (so was the dealer!). Ball joints appear fine, wheel bearing has no slop (that I can tell), and it has brand new upper urithane bushings and a new upper ball joint. I KNOW it's not the shock/spring, b/c I even swapped the left/right, and the noise is still there (and didn't move to the other side).
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Over New Years I had to engage the full-time 4x4 button on my 2003 Explorer 4WD. Shortly thereafter I started noticing an airplane propeller noise that comes and goes with acceleration. It's pretty loud. It has not affected mileage or dashboard engine indicators. Tires still have 40% left, not them. Have I ruined an axle or something? There is a rear end whine that Ford says is endemic to this model and year, but I think they are not related.
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I did an oil change recently, as I have done many times in the past, but this is the first time different noise like this could be heard.
I had synthetic in there before (mobil 1 + mobil 1 filter) because it was on sale for a ridiculous price, and I figured I would try it out. I now have Shell oil in the engine and it is the same weight (10w-30) as always. It is dino oil, supposedly with synth blend or something, and I also installed another synth filter.
I now have some minor valvetrain noise, a little louder than normal, and a tick that is loud - which is the part that really worries me.
Should I go back to synthetic, or should I look at the top end? I opened the valve cover, but nothing looks wrong at a quick glance.
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