This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
View 20 RepliesWhen decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
Have replaced BOTH half axles. Clicking sound present when driving - does NOT change when turning right or left. Seems slightly affected by acceleration/deceleration - makes clicking slightly louder/quieter. Clicking is DIRECTLY proportional to speed - slows down until car stops. Transmission works fine, fluid level is correct. New trans fluid and filter. What the heck could this be? Wheel bearings seem solid - jack up car and try to wiggle wheel - solid as a rock both right and left sides. WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???
View 4 RepliesTwo weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
Heard a clicking sound from the right side front on Accent. No noise when idling, but when you start to drive along a noise starts somewhere to the right side of the car, and it sounds like it is toward the front, possibly the front wheel ? Can't tell for sure. As long as you steadily apply gas you can hear it. If you ease off on the gas, the noise goes away.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
A few months ago my automatic 2000 hyundai accent GL was having problems reversing. Some times it would, sometimes it would move a few feet then fall out of gear and stop, sometimes it would not move at all.
The reversing problem fixed itself about a month ago.
Recently i started having problems accelerating, it was noticeably slower to get to speed and had problems upshifting.
Today, it started to make a buzzing when in Drive, while decelerating after getting to speed. This buzz is nonexistent in neutral, 2nd, or low gear.
Here is a video of the sound it is making, with captions to explain what i am doing... 2000 accent transmission problem - YouTube
I have a 2002 Accent with a manual transmission with just over 100K. It has for some time had a low whine, which is getting worse. Not wheel bearings. The whine increases with speed, and seems a little louder when decelerating. Makes the sound in every gear and when in neutral (coasting at speed). Brought it into a mechanic and he thought bearings in the transmission (though I don't know why it would make the same sound when in neutral . . .). Shifts through all of the gears fine, no other odd sounds. Can't find any information out there that sounds like my situation.
View 4 RepliesFor the past couple of months my 2005 Avalon XLS has developed a clicking or knocking sound when I am turning right. I especially notice it when in reverse and turning right. Not only can you hear hit somewhat, but I can feel it vibrate through the brake pedal. It does do it while driving, but it is more noticeable when in reverse. It is also most noticeable when moving at slow speeds, such as in parking lots. It will also do it if the car is angle parked and the wheel is turning right.
Thus far my mechanic has replaced the struts, the linkage assembly, and done some work on the steering column. I'm tired of paying my mechanic to simply swap parts.
My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
Since I had my 40k service a few months back, I hear a knocking sound for about 3-5 seconds after a cold start (overnight is long enough). It's a pretty loud clicking sound, even worse if the car hasn't been started for a few days.
I brought it to the dealership and they said it's "the sound of the lifters clicking before they get pressurized with oil". They said the oil level is fine. Doesn't seem kosher to me - didn't happen before the 40k service.
Could they have used the wrong oil? Or perhaps didn't put something back together again properly?
Car ran dangerously low on oil (oil leak that we didn't know was present) and started knocking quite badly.
I pulled the valve cover to check the lifters and everything seemed fine up top. I tried to drop the oil pan but I couldn't get it to separate from the block.
If I can remove the oil pan are the main and rod bearings that hard to change or do they require special tools?
Where the knocking sensor is located on a 2005 Accent. I am in need of finding it so that i can wire a controller into the signal wire?
View 2 RepliesBut i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
I got my HSD HR coilovers and they went on great but its like there's a bumping or knocking sound coming from the rear that wasn't there before? They look great and got me as low as I wanted.
View 6 RepliesI am seeking to identify a problem my hyundai accent model 2009. when it s cool or started with a time period gap between four to five hours. it some times not start with a try of three to four times and then start but giving some knocking sound, it went away after five minutes . once start and warm it is ok and again started when warm.
I did computer check but it result is normal and have changed also the spark plug and fuel filter but problem still exist. the problem may in timing belt -or fuel pump may any other reason.
I own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
1) After 10000km the car started to develop some front suspension knocking sound going over potholes. After three trips to a dealer they finally said that it was a loose stabilizer bar which apparently is "very common". They tightened it and the problem seemed to go away. Now after 40000km the problem seems to have came back. I am starting to think that maybe it is somehow related to cold temperature because it seems to get a little better once the car has been warmed up and it has been going for some time.
I don't really care about the noise, but I want Hyundai to fix it if there really is a problem.
2) When driving 40-60km/h with the sunroof open I get a resonant wobbling sound. If I open one of the windows just a bit it disappears. Sounds like a poor sunroof wind deflector design to me. (I have driven Mazdaz and Hondas with sunroofs and none of them had that problem)
3) Whats up with those super heavy 16' aluminum wheels!!!! Is it just me or it feels like they weigh more then the steel ones? The car even feels faster when I put on my winter tires on steel rims.
Other then that the car has been pretty good. I am not getting anywhere near the factory specified fuel efficiency 6.5-7.5l/100km hwy and 8-9l/100km city, but I do drive it fairly hard, so that is OK. It still amazes me though that my 15yr old civic was getting the same mileage with a comparable performance. You would think that there would be some progress in automotive technology....
My 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
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