Accent LC (2000-05) :: Buzzing When In Drive While Decelerating After Getting To Speed
Nov 24, 2012
A few months ago my automatic 2000 hyundai accent GL was having problems reversing. Some times it would, sometimes it would move a few feet then fall out of gear and stop, sometimes it would not move at all.
The reversing problem fixed itself about a month ago.
Recently i started having problems accelerating, it was noticeably slower to get to speed and had problems upshifting.
Today, it started to make a buzzing when in Drive, while decelerating after getting to speed. This buzz is nonexistent in neutral, 2nd, or low gear.
Here is a video of the sound it is making, with captions to explain what i am doing... 2000 accent transmission problem - YouTube
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When decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
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This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
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I have a 2002 Accent with a manual transmission with just over 100K. It has for some time had a low whine, which is getting worse. Not wheel bearings. The whine increases with speed, and seems a little louder when decelerating. Makes the sound in every gear and when in neutral (coasting at speed). Brought it into a mechanic and he thought bearings in the transmission (though I don't know why it would make the same sound when in neutral . . .). Shifts through all of the gears fine, no other odd sounds. Can't find any information out there that sounds like my situation.
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Recently I've had problems with my DRL (Day time Running Lights) Control Module. When I start the car, the DRL starts to make a loud buzzing sound. When I turn on my High Beams, it stops making the noise. It sounds like there's a relay that Isn't working like its supposed to be. So, I've thought of replacing it, but I`m not sure if its the DRL that's defective or just a wiring problem...
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When the car is running, the noise is not there OR it is drowned out by the engine, but when you turn the key and run on battery, you hear a buzzing and it sounds like it is coming from the engine, it stays until you turn the engine on or turn the key back off.
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I've suddenly developed a loud buzzing noise from my air-con system. I checked the hmaservice website, but the images don't look anything like what I have behind my glove box. I have a right-hand drive vehicle.
hmaservice says to remove the outside-air/recirc cable, and the picture shows this coming in from the left, where the center console would be on a LHD car. Mine comes in from the right of course. That is where the mirror imaging ends!
The service pages say that the filter sits behind this cable, and there's some sort of "hook" to remove to open a flap for the filter. There's no hook or anything like the images on my car.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Accent with 166K on it. A couple of weeks ago I drove it and for an hour and parked, then after several hours I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had it looked at and found out that the fuel pump was not buzzing. I replaced it, it started and I drove it for a couple days then it died and didn't start again. It cranked but wouldn't start. To get it to start again, I had to spray starter fluid and then was able to drive it home. A couple of days later, while I was idling at a traffic light, it died. The engine cranked but it wouldn't start. I used starter fluid again and got it home. Once I use starter fluid it runs fine, like nothing is wrong with it. There is no fault code present. I replaced the fuel relay, fuel pressure regulator, ECU, fuel filter and spark plugs but I still have the same issue. What else do I need to replace? The car will start sometimes and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will start fine without starter fluid and then other times when it randomly shuts off, I have to use it. I was going to replace the crank positioning sensor but since the car starts with starter fluid I think it may have something to do with the fuel.
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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I have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
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I have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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2004 accent had a drink spill on lower console, and think this is why it quit shifting? Disassembled, cleaned switches, unhooked battery, and car still has no reverse, shifts HARD into drive, will not move further.
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What could cause the entire drivetrain to shack upon starting of the car? every time i turn the key and the engine starts to spin its like something underneath is shaking the whole car. i was thinking maybe motor or trans mounts but, i am not sure. 2005 accent gls hatchback.
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When I'm on highway (between 90 and 120 KM/H) I heard a whistle when speed is stable. it happen frequently in the last week. I notice it happen approximately at 95 and 110 KM/H. When I remove my feet from accelerator, I don't hear the noise anymore.
(Accent 2002 hatchback).....
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trying to find the speed sensor on a 03 accent manual so I can fit cruise control
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Heard a clicking sound from the right side front on Accent. No noise when idling, but when you start to drive along a noise starts somewhere to the right side of the car, and it sounds like it is toward the front, possibly the front wheel ? Can't tell for sure. As long as you steadily apply gas you can hear it. If you ease off on the gas, the noise goes away.
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'05 Accent, 19k miles. Car has been great, except suddenly I'm getting a weird shifting issue when I first start the vehicle. After I put the car in reverse, then change into drive, the car SLAMS and stops briefly, as if I've hit something. This has started to happen a lot lately.
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The MIL light up and I got the P0501 Code. (Speed Sensor. I use a Scangauge II and the Speed is 0 KM/H at any speed. (was working before). But the in dash Speedometer work no problem. I look on the HMAservice web page and did not found where is located the Speed Sensor.
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I have a '05 Accent GLS Hatchback. 5-speed, manual transmission with about 82 thousand miles on it. I bought the vehicle used about 2 years ago. Ever since I've had it, its been a little jumpy in first gear when going at very low speed. Especially during traffic jams, barely pressing on the gas will cause it to jump a little bit until you put the pedal down further. Lately its starting to do something similar when it 4th gear. When you push your foot on the pedal it jumps a little and does the same thing when you take the foot off the pedal. What may be the cause? O2 or TPS sensor maybe? It did give me a flashing check engine light for about 10 seconds this morning but it hasn't done that since.
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My hyundai accent 2005, have problem of jerks /die speed after engine get warm, also increase if AC on, when I starts car in morning it works great and no problem but after 3 or 5 km as engine get hotter speed kills,but it happens more or worst in evening at 4 when returning from office and temp is 45+ in riyadh, saudiarabia.
I change air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark cables, also use fuel injector cleaner but still problem remains, I want to tell you its start when I changed engine valve cover gasket due to oil leak, as I changed this problem suddenly appeared, I went to other mechanic but he told me the problem not in valve cover gasket,it is somewhere else he clean my throttle body ,and its works for 2 day only that i felt the problem solved but after two days problem appeared again,there is no engine light power on for any electronic malfunctioning.
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