Accent LC (2000-05) :: Clicking Sound Proportional To Speed
Oct 24, 2015
Have replaced BOTH half axles. Clicking sound present when driving - does NOT change when turning right or left. Seems slightly affected by acceleration/deceleration - makes clicking slightly louder/quieter. Clicking is DIRECTLY proportional to speed - slows down until car stops. Transmission works fine, fluid level is correct. New trans fluid and filter. What the heck could this be? Wheel bearings seem solid - jack up car and try to wiggle wheel - solid as a rock both right and left sides. WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???
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2011 Elantra GL.
Recently, we noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood (the rate of "ticking" was proportional to the engine speed). We took the vehicle in to the local Hyundai dealership and didn't hear anything from them until 6 hours later. The news was interesting; they were going to perform a full engine replacement after consulting with Hyundai Canada. In my experience, a resolution of this large of a magnitude usually takes weeks of kicking and screaming for any large corporation to comply, however it seems like a pretty hasty conclusion, indicating to me that Hyundai might be already aware of such an issue...
So here is my question. We requested photos from the dealership, and they were able to send two pictures of one of the camshafts (not sure if it's the intake or exhaust cams), but the only thing that I could notice was some slight abrasion/wear; certainly not enough for me to ever come to the conclusion that a full engine swap was necessary. I've attached the pictures.
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This start this morning on my way to work. When I took my foot off the gas I would hear a clicking knocking sound the sound slowed down as the car slowed down. Any time I took my foot of the gas this would happen. Was still there when I hit the break. If i had my foot just barely on the gas it would go way. Its an automatic 2000 Accent 156K miles.
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Two weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
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Heard a clicking sound from the right side front on Accent. No noise when idling, but when you start to drive along a noise starts somewhere to the right side of the car, and it sounds like it is toward the front, possibly the front wheel ? Can't tell for sure. As long as you steadily apply gas you can hear it. If you ease off on the gas, the noise goes away.
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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I have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
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I've noticed for quite a while there's a slight clunking sound coming from the front chassis. It's more noticeable when the car's moving slowly, and when the car's driving faster the clunking sound becomes a vibration. I think it clunk maybe once when the wheel is turning a full circle. Does this indicates a CV joint problem? Both sides of of the front wheels have ruptured CV boots(for a long time). I'm just too lazy to get it replaced. Is it easy to replace the boots and ball bearings inside it, or just to replace the whole axle? The axles are not very expensive any way. Is it possible to find out which side need to be replaced immediately?
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For about the last month or so my car has been making a strange thumping kind of sound that is constant with vehicle speed. slow or fast. changed the rotors, pads, hardware, shoes and machined drums. also has a slight pulsation when coming to a stop. Thought it was the tires but they look good. can not find anything wrong.
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I'm bringing my 6MT 2.0T in tomorrow, for 10K service, installation of the Euro-cupholder and to have them investigate a sound I first noticed last week. For lack of a better description, it's a "whirring" noise that is exactly proportional to speed (higher pitched at higher speeds). I'm guessing that it's either related to the clutch or the drive shaft.
I can't hear it well with the windows open. It seems to emanate from under the stick-shift. It is audible either in gear or not. (And it seems to be getting slightly worse each day).....
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Is it my wheel bearing, rotors or brake pads?
How do I describe it... well it has this squealing noise and it's proportional to my speed.
Heard this while I had my windows rolled down.
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I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT and I get a whining noise that is directly proportional to road speed when I drive. The noise is ONLY heard when the car is moving and your foot is on the gas. The second you lift your foot to coast the whining stops. If you are stopped, no whine. If you change gears, the frequency of the whine doesn't change. Turning the wheel left/right doesn't change anything. If it sounds like anything I've heard, it sounds like a dry differential. I've checked the front diff fluid level (the whine comes from the front) and the fluid level is full.
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My 2005 Accent began making an odd clicking sound about two years ago when I would decrease my speed, not using the brakes. It wasn't loud, just annoying. It went on for some time until my car went into the shop to have the alternator replaced. I explained the noise to the mechanic and they checked it out. They explained they added some type of cleaning fluid somewhere under the hood, and the sound was gone. I was thrilled.
Last year, the sound returned again. Annoyed, I began saving to bring it in to the shop again. In Feb 2013, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced because my mileage of course called for it. The mechanic said he could not hear the clicking sound I was reporting (I really didn't see how.)
Two months later in April, my car decided to die on me and after 5 months I just recently got it up and running again. My differential and transmission were both completely rebuilt. Also, my CV axles have both been replaced. Now that I have my car back, the clicking sound is louder than before and also now happens when I accelerate as well. The faster I go, the faster the clicking gets until it eventually stops. When I slow down, the clicking starts again until I hit my brakes.
I want to take my car and get this noise silenced once and for all since they didn't hear it when my transmission was done last month. What fluid may have been added to what part 2 years ago when this was handled initially?
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Every time I fill up my gas and put the hands free nozzle switch it clicks every time.
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When decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
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Having this problem on ride, clicking noise when you apply brakes in reverse? ( I had this problem as well on my previous toyota ) it's annoying that I have to hear this sound again. My car is 6 mo old and I just put 5000km so far on my ride, I guess i can let the dealer handle it ?
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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Ford - e350 Superduty .... This truck has the x-tended cab and is 4 wheel drive. It began making noise and vibrating at high speed the other day...like when driving on the out-of-bounds drunk bumps. I found that when I engaged the 4-wheel drive transfer case, with the hubs unlocked, the noise went away for a brief period, but then would start again...especially after hitting a bump in the road. The noise & vibration will happen at any speed. It was suggested it might be the carrier bearing, but I checked that (pulled the drive-line) and it is tight. I had to back out a trailer in 4-wheel drive the other day and the phenomenon went away for several days, but is back now. With the windows down I can hear a clacking sound (not a clicking sound) that goes along with the vibration.
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Having a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
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Over the past few weeks, I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the right rear brake when they are moderately applied when stopping. Doesnt seem to happen under light braking. I figured something in there must have gotten loose so I got to taking the drum off to inspect and clean the insides, or see if anything was broken. Everything seemed to be in order, inside of the drum looks fine as do the shoes, Nothing is really jumping out at me as a cause to this noise. I hit the brakes with the shop vac to suck out any brake dust I could get.
Then, with the drum off, I had my fiance apply the brakes a few times, and the parking brake, just so I could see if something in there was not operating as it should. Heh. I dont think you are supposed to do that with the drum off. The shoe adjuster fell off the shoes (#2 below) So I had to get that back in place and I am pretty sure I have it in right. I go to put the drum back on, and the pads are now too far apart and it wont go back on.
So, I decide to try opening the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder to see if I can get the pads to move in at all. it drips but I cant get the pads to budge. Then I shortened up the shoe adjuster all the way so I could get the drum back on.
Now my parking brake lever, I have to pull it waaay up to even get the parking brake to engage. I figure I have to go back and crank that adjuster out some so the shoes engage sooner. Also, I probably got air in the brake line when I opened the bleeder, so I have to bleed the brakes for real.
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I have had my Accent for 2 years now and has 51000 miles on it. i just got oil coolant and trans fluid changed. about 20000 miles prior, i noticed a clicking. after the car heats up, it doesnt really happen. im thinking its my axle
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