Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: After Start Up Engine Throws Wait To Start Light / Runs Real Rough And Just Shuts Off
Oct 7, 2015
My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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My 2001 7.3 in a f350 automatic has this problem. I tried to start in am, no wait to start light comes on, but the od/off on auto transmission handle is blinking on and off. Turn key off and back on, no blinking, instrument cluster lights up as normal but no wait to start light, engine turns over as normal but no start or attempt to start, engine has about 56000. replaced glow plug relay, still nothing.
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I have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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I have a 2001 E-350 with 7.3 that will not start on its own. It is showing only 80psi ICP while cranking. It started with the aid of some starting fluid it will run at 550 psi ICP but the ICP duty cycle is running over 20%. We started with less than 10 psi while cranking and after a new IPR was installed it's now at 80 psi while cranking. There is good battery voltage oil is at correct level the HPOP is full. I just don't know what to look at next.
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I have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 I was driving down the road today and I lost throttle along with my check engine light coming on. I pulled over and turned my truck off and now it will not fire back up.
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
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I just started having a cold start problem with my '02 Excursion this fall and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. Truck starts fine above about 45 degrees and when it's warm. If I plug in the block heater it also starts fine in the cold. If it's not too cold I can eventually get it started by continuing to crank it. It blows white smoke while cranking and for a few seconds after it finally turns over. Smells like fuel. Runs rough for 30 sec after starting when it finally turns over. Definitely seems like glow plugs aren't working. This truck started no problem on GPs alone without plugging in down to -20 deg F before this year.
I started by cleaning all battery connections, including the two ground posts on the engine block, I replaced one bad battery (diagnosed by Autozone; other one was OK), I checked the resistance of the glow plugs (only a few years old with about 30k miles on them) through the connectors on the GP control module (all were about 1 ohm), and confirmed 12V at the power pins in the GP control module connectors. I then replaced the GP control module and the problem is still present. Battery voltage drops from about 12.6 V before I start the GP cycle to about 12V when I turn the key to "ON" and the GP light comes on. How much should the voltage drop when the GPs are on? What the heck else could be wrong??
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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I am intrigued by this engine and it's cold start issues so I am trying things out to see what works. If I plug it in it starts like summertime. If it's as cold as 30* out I run the glow plugs for two minutes and it starts without much effort and once running purrs like a kitten, no chug a lug, no romping, little smoke. When it gets down into the 20's I run the glow plugs for two two minute cycles, a little more cranking time but starts same as above. Down to 18* and I cycle the glow plugs twice for two minutes and it cranks, tries to start but won't. Key off, back on for two more minutes and it starts right up like a warm summer day. It hasn't been colder than 18* here this year so this is the end of my report for now. I haven't taken the time to check the glow plugs which is on my list but this summer it'll get done.
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I have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 259,000 miles. It does not get too cold here, however over the past few winters when the temp is below 50 at night the first minute or two of running out of the neighborhood is tough going unless I let it heat up. It has been getting worse over the past few years and now if its even 55 or 60 I need to let it heat up. Glow plugs? Injectors?
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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So this is reason #345 why I should never have let my wife drive my F-350. I am in the Army, and I got a frantic call from my wife (I missed the first 7) saying that the truck died and won't start. I drive all the way to the truck, pop the hood and discover:
1) there is no coolant; and
2) there is no oil (actually just EXTREMELY low on both).
So, I do what any good Soldier does, I push the truck all the way back home (downhill mostly), buy 5 quarts of oil and a jug of 50/50 coolant, fill up both and try to start the engine.
The last time it ran out of oil (small leak on a seal that I didn't know about) in 2006, all I had to do was fill the oil, turn the key, and press the gas until it kicked over (don't judge me, I was a dumb LT). I did this again this time (now, I am a dumb CPT) but now it: 1) idles very rough; and 2) won't start unless I press down on the gas when I turn the key. There is no gauge light when it does this. I read the thread on the UVCH, but I am concerned I might have done something horrible to my truck.
2003 Ford F-350 7.3L
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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Here's what I'm dealing with. Took the truck on a 1500 mile trip with no issues. Got home and started it the next morning and it started right up. 1/2 mile from home it starts to run rough and wants to die. It does this for a few minutes and then perks back up and runs fine for however long the trip is. It will always re fire and have no issues. Every morning it's the same game as described above. Within 1/2 from home it's doing this. Seems to be fuel delivery related, but why would it start after sitting overnight, and then after its little fit, run without an issue?
No codes in computer.
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I have a 01 7.3 crew cab dually and it's had cold start problems since i got it in 09.I have replaced everything i could think of including glow plugs gpr,harness and batteries. Any temp below 40 i have to plug it in . If i cycle it 3 or 4 times it will start but it smokes and runs ruff. My 00 7.3 excursion starts up down to about 10 degrees than i have to plug it in so i know dually is not right.
I have a afe intake,1.5 injectors, driven diesel rr, adrenilin pump,dp tune by gear head. Kinda at wits end don't mind plugging it in in dead of winter but now one night it's 30 next it's50 and i don't have to . Also have fully built trans by level 10 if it matters .I get battery light coming on every now and again. New alt about every year and a half.
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So I went out this morning to start the truck up like I do every morning. It cranked once, and didn't start, which is somewhat normal. second crank it started right up, which is normal, then after about 2 minutes, it seemed like the rpms were bouncing and the engine got a little more slower and louder, then it dipped below 500, then stalled. After that moment nothing. It just cranks. Now it was VERY low on fuel, I've been this low on fuel and never had anything like this happen, so my neighbor took me up to the station and I bought 2 gallons. came back, still nada. I went out after letting it sit on the block heater for about an hour and noticed a small puddle of fuel under the truck on the passenger side. I went to start it and the fuel gauge went up to a half tank. cranked, no start. then again and it went up again but slowly started creeping back down.
Now the kicker, I have very limited knowledge of diesel engines, or gas for that matter. So if my intuition is right, this is probably going to be a learning experience for me... what should I check first guys? Its plugged in right now but I am sure that's not gonna fix it.. I am gonna change the oil first since it needs it, I bought shell rotella triple t 15w40 which im assuming is ok. last winter It was leaking fuel when it was really cold out but that was it, just leaking a bit and then after spring it went away. I know I should have fixed it when it started but I have an extreme anxiety to letting any mechanic near my vehicles and just about as much anxiety trying to fix it myself. I'm at a loss for what to do, I'm a pro with computers but this truck scares the crap out of me, I'm terrified I'll do something worse.
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4, 218,000 Miles....
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I have a 2000 4x4 Limited 7.3 Powerstroke. 290k miles and runs like a top. However, if I don't plug it in for a few hours before starting she sounds like an old John Deere Poppin' Johnny. I had the glow plugs replaced yet had to go back to the repair shop three times since because it threw a code each time. No codes now just rough shaking and vibrating start for about 5min (without plugging in block heater) or so then once warmed up she runs great.
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