My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
View 14 RepliesMy truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 with 259,000 miles. It does not get too cold here, however over the past few winters when the temp is below 50 at night the first minute or two of running out of the neighborhood is tough going unless I let it heat up. It has been getting worse over the past few years and now if its even 55 or 60 I need to let it heat up. Glow plugs? Injectors?
View 3 RepliesI have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.
I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
View 14 RepliesI have a 1994 Ford F-150 pickup with a 4.9 litre fuel injected inline six. Truck ran fine and took me to my destination but after sitting for 4 hours the truck would not start. Engine would turn over normally and could hear fuel pump running (didn't seem to stop) but truck would not start.
I changed fuel filter but truck would still not start. I removed air filter assembly and poured starting fluid in the air intake and engine started but idled roughly. Engine will rev up but runs very rough and lacks power when driven. Also the check engine light stays on.
My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
Trucks been running perfect for 11,000 miles atleast. its last issue was a bad turbo but that was my fault. No issues whatsoever since. 10 miles down the road from work last night truck had a slight miss in between 55-60 for four or five seconds, I put the pedal down and brought it up to 75 or so just to see if it was my imagination and it felt fine so i wrote it off. It ran fine to the house we're working on i wanted to check on before I got home.
Parked it, it idled down to 650 before it came back up to 750 and it never does that and sounded different then it usually does. so i felt something was definitely up. i shut it off, was at the house about a half hour before i decided to head home, started and ran fine, three miles down the road the slight miss came back, it seemed to go away if i got on it pretty good and when i let off but just cruising with slight throttle it had the slight miss.
Got to my road where i had to slow down and turn and it idled down and died. I coasted over, unplugged the icp sensor and it cranked for 10 seconds or so and lazily came back to life. I got it home running decent and parked it. Scanned it with my old super chips tuner and it came up with a p0340 camshaft position code.
Matched my symptoms i felt so this morning i decided id go back to work and grab my spare out of my wrecked truck. truck started and idled perfect. made it to the end of my driveway before the miss came back and then it just died. took the car to work, grabbed my spare camshaft sensor and my maximus scanner, came home scanned it, no returning p0340 cam code but i swapped the camshaft sensor anyway and watched icp and ipr data, the ipr voltage is where it should be and rises while cranking while cranking.
ICP is climbing to almost 3,200 psi and it will begin to run when it peaks out. she'll fire for 45 seconds after 25 seconds of cranking or so and then it'll just die. if it sits for a few minutes it takes a few seconds of cranking before ICP will come off of 0. I've come to the conclusion that it is making high pressure oil it is just dumping it as fast as it can make it. I changed the ipr out because that can do it, it didn't change anything so I'm on to believing an injector is dumping it as fast as possible.
Is it possible for something to come undone inside the injector to make it dump high pressure oil or will a bad o ring cause this? i'm leaning towards a failing injector as when it does fire and run its definitely misfiring and i just put new o rings on them when i swapped them over from my wrecked truck but that was like 45,000 miles ago as well..
So I had a reman 7.3 and 4r100 dropped in my 03 excursion.. since then the engine fires up every single time.. ONLY when the truck sits for 2 days i have this issue where the truck fires right up, runs for 4 or 5 seconds then stalls out.. It starts back up on first try and idles rough 10 seconds then it runs great.. If it only sits 1 day i dont have the issue if it sits 1.5 days it will try to stall out and catches itself from stall out and doesn't stall about 3/4 of the time. The mechanic who is a reputable diesel mechanic cant figure it out.. they called swamps and they also were unsure.
View 9 RepliesSo I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
View 8 RepliesHere's what I'm dealing with. Took the truck on a 1500 mile trip with no issues. Got home and started it the next morning and it started right up. 1/2 mile from home it starts to run rough and wants to die. It does this for a few minutes and then perks back up and runs fine for however long the trip is. It will always re fire and have no issues. Every morning it's the same game as described above. Within 1/2 from home it's doing this. Seems to be fuel delivery related, but why would it start after sitting overnight, and then after its little fit, run without an issue?
No codes in computer.
I have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
View 14 Replies2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
So there's no signal/ electrical feed to the passenger side cylinders. I ohmd all the UVCH and they check out. Moved the wiring harness around near the big black multi pin plug under the air intake to the turbo and the passenger bank kicks in and out so it's definitely a wiring short. Need links and pics to that multi pin plug to troubleshoot the wiring.....
View 8 RepliesOk truck would not start when cold outside. So I put a gpr on truck. Truck alt would only put out 11.5 ... After I put it on. So I put 4 new alts on all read the same 11.5 and the battery's would drain over night. Turns out they gave me a starter relay. So I have the proper one now. Now when u turn the key the everything is flashing the dash dome light buzzer. But take one of the small wired off the gpr, it stops but I have no power to the starter. It's been 2 months of hell trying to figure it out.
View 14 RepliesI had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
View 6 RepliesI have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
I had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
I just started having a cold start problem with my '02 Excursion this fall and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. Truck starts fine above about 45 degrees and when it's warm. If I plug in the block heater it also starts fine in the cold. If it's not too cold I can eventually get it started by continuing to crank it. It blows white smoke while cranking and for a few seconds after it finally turns over. Smells like fuel. Runs rough for 30 sec after starting when it finally turns over. Definitely seems like glow plugs aren't working. This truck started no problem on GPs alone without plugging in down to -20 deg F before this year.
I started by cleaning all battery connections, including the two ground posts on the engine block, I replaced one bad battery (diagnosed by Autozone; other one was OK), I checked the resistance of the glow plugs (only a few years old with about 30k miles on them) through the connectors on the GP control module (all were about 1 ohm), and confirmed 12V at the power pins in the GP control module connectors. I then replaced the GP control module and the problem is still present. Battery voltage drops from about 12.6 V before I start the GP cycle to about 12V when I turn the key to "ON" and the GP light comes on. How much should the voltage drop when the GPs are on? What the heck else could be wrong??