Silverado :: 88 Chevy K1500 - Truck Lacks Power / It Idles Rough
Mar 9, 2009
I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
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I have a 2005 f250 with a 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with a cracked passenger side exhaust manifold about a year ago. We'll here recently the crack got worse and was giving the code P0171, so I had a shop replace it. I picked the truck up and not even a mile down the road it started idling terrible at lights and had very poor acceleration. And it gave me P0174 this time. It's only gotten worse now it's reading P0172, P0174,P0161, and P1489. I've replaced the spark plugs, MAF sensor, both vct solenoid, an the upstream o2 sensor on the passenger side. I also know I don't have any intake or vacuum leaks, I've had a shop check and so have I. It's starting to get expensive just replacing stuff. So, maybe I have a clogged catalytic converter ?
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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97 chevy k1500 with 305, engine rebuilt by shop 60k ago, last few months only drove truck 4-5 times, last time driving gave p0306, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleared code, now gives p0300, took intake apart removed spider, sprayed/scrubbed each injector and poppet with cleaner, but no way of cleaning the line between the injector and poppets. No change after cleaning. Also ran injector cleaner through tank. All vacuum hoses look in good order, sprayed carb cleaner around intake to check for leaks at intake/throttle body, no leaks.
Checked TPS, IAC, MAF, Coil and fuel pressure, all good except fuel pressure was 52-54 while idle, replaced fuel pump, screen filter and main filter, cleared code, rough start and rough idle still gives p0300. Checked coil with ohmmeter, between posts A & C, Chilton says 0.1 ohms, i got 0.5 ohms, went to autozone and had them check a new coil, it have 0.5 ohms......? Can drive at higher speeds and runs smooth, but idle is poor almost dies.Checked fuel pressure after pump replacement, still ~54 psi. Stumped and don't want to throw more parts at it without a proper diagnosis. Have a OBDII pocket scan tool, but can't find manual, will try to find manual and see if I can pinpoint the misfiring cylinders.
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The 1999 Chevy Venture I have doesn't get enough power from the motor and lacks the force to accelerate, was told it could be with the sensors? Which sensors and where could they be located?
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I have a 98 chevy truck that won't start. After it sits. It was starting after cycling the key a few times. But now it won't start. Could it be the pump? I hear it running.
Or could it be the regulator? It was running good after it started. No check engine light, no gas smell, and no rough idle.
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I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
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I have a 98 Chevy truck with a 4L60E. It has no second gear. I was sitting in park for about 10 minutes with the engine running, then put it in drive and it never shifted into second. It felt like it went straight to 3rd. I played with it manually until I figured out I had reverse, 1st, 3rd, 4th and torque converter lockup, just no second gear. My acceleration rate was medium and when I reach about 27-28 mph it would shift from 1st into 3rd. It has 230K on it so I rebuilt it with all the typical parts - frictions, steels, band, sun shell etc., still no second. I then pulled the pan back off and replaced the spacer plate and put in a shift kit. While I had it down I put a corvette servo in and did an air check. It worked fine. I could feel the band tighten.
Both the 1-2 and 2-3 solenoids checked good at 23 ohms. I swapped their positions to see if it would make a difference. I also checked to make sure the 1-2 accumulator piston wasn't stuck in its bore, the spring was new from the shift kit. It was fine. Put it back together...still no second gear. When I originally pulled the pan off for the rebuild, the pan was free of any debris and was very clean. I then drove it a couple of miles to a local transmission shop. They put their scan tool on it and drove it around the block. There were no codes and the ECM was calling for second gear. It doesn't sound mechanical since almost all the parts have been replaced, rebuilt or inspected that affect the 1-2 shift. It sounds electrical. Is there anything I have missed?
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why my truck is running rough the problem I am having is when you push the gas peddle more than a 1/4 of an inch it shudders and has no get up and go and also if say I'm doing 40 MPH and hit the gas you can hear the engine rev up but I will lose all power and actually lose speed I thought maybe the cats were bad and I changed the plugs for good measure but I can't seem to figure it out also I had the fuel pressure checked and its pulling pressure is great/
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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2006 chevy 4.3 v6 5 speed manual trans. Very hard to shift into and out of gear , the truck has about 80,000 miles on it , its had the new trans fluid gm replaced for smoother shifting. If you hold the clutch pedal down on the floor hard it works fine. It all most like the pedal it screwed up. The pedal ass is plastic junk, I am thinking the pedal is bended. The clutch does not slip and I tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder and there are no leaks anywhere !
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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I have a 1994 Ford F-150 pickup with a 4.9 litre fuel injected inline six. Truck ran fine and took me to my destination but after sitting for 4 hours the truck would not start. Engine would turn over normally and could hear fuel pump running (didn't seem to stop) but truck would not start.
I changed fuel filter but truck would still not start. I removed air filter assembly and poured starting fluid in the air intake and engine started but idled roughly. Engine will rev up but runs very rough and lacks power when driven. Also the check engine light stays on.
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My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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At first I thought it was a vacuum that was causing all of this.I was getting a (small leak) code I replaced the vac tubes and the code still came back. But that is not the main problem.I had two problems at the same time I just didn't know it. A vac leak wold not make it run this bad. I had just recently put in new plugs and found one plug loose. It was easy to take out and didn't need to be broken free. The plug was fouled out bad (black) the other 4 were good. It must have been the loose plug all a long that was giving me problems.
I drove the truck a while before I checked the plugs,I had no clue it was loose. When the plug job was done,it ran well (because engine was warm) the next day with a cold start it ran bad,real rough. I was thinking that the loose fouled plug caused the coil pack to over load and go bad.. Now when the weather is wet it makes it way worse. At least when it is dry I can drive it. Do you think the coil packs could be the problem creating the missing and rough idle??
There is only 70k on the truck I bought it new in 2002....
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Where to start looking to resolve this code. It is not an intermittent code. It returns after about 3 to 4 key turns. Truck idles a little rough but runs fine. I have looked up the code and causes but wondering how to deal with this directly and fixed it. I'm wanting to sell my truck for something bigger and would like to solve the issue before hand. 2003 Ford Ranger Edge...
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So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
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I am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
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I am thinking that maybe my ignition switch is bad and needs replaced. When i turn the key on sometimes the pump wont turn on and thus wont start (brand new pump couple weeks ago)
all my fuses are good
its only done this once but today it started fine ran for maybe 2 or 3 seconds and then died just like i turned the key off no sputtering or anything but started right up again and was fine
sometimes it feels like its lost power and burning alot more gas then it should and every now and then at higher rpm it will miss but only once and it very rarely does that
relay is good
ground to fuel pump is good
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Problem started 2 days ago, driving around and my truck would stumble and lose power. Give it gas, won't rev up but it cleared and ran fine for a mile or so then it comes back (off and on all the way home). Check engine light didn't come on the first few times, came on a couple times on the way home (maybe 4 mile trip) but goes off when the truck runs fine. Thinking it was maybe the fuel pump (got 140K on the stocker). Talked to a few friends, some thought it was algae build up in the tank that was clogging the filter on the pump, underhood filter changed a couple hundred miles ago. Looked fine with slight brown build up at bottom of bowl when I replaced it.
Ran it around yesterday with a friend of mine and his scan tool hooked up, acted up once, check engine came on for a few seconds and shutoff. No code and for some reason we couldn't get it to live data while driving. I dumped in an algae eater yesterday and left the truck overnight since I had to work. Got home this morning to run her around the block to circulate the eater. Truck started and idled fine, went to pull out and she won't rev up, pumped the gas and NOTHING! Check engine light is on now but don't have a scan tool handy to read it. I heard the truck will store the code?
What this problem might be? What's a good scan tool for our trucks that can live data as well? CPS is good and already did the UVCH mod.
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