Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Hesitation When Turning Over To Start
Aug 23, 2015
The wife's accent started hesitating when turning over to start. Like turn the key, engine will turn 1/4 turn, then nothing for a second or 2 ( without releasing the key) and then crank and start fine.
Checked connections at the battery, cleaned 'em. No CEL on.
I had a ignition cylinder freeze last winter, when my wife dropped her key in the snow and put it in with water on it. Had to heat the cylinder with a small lighter-style blowtorch and put low temp graphite in there.
Did I maybe melt something in there?? Something else??
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My hyundai accent has been giving me fits for about 6 months but I didnt think it was a major issue, apparently I am wrong. When it first started the check engine light would come on randomly and go off after a few minutes or even a day. Then it started staying on longer and when it would go off my car would stall. Then when it got cold twice I went out to warm my car before I left and when I came back out to leave it was dead, had to be jump started and while driving the first couple of miles it would die, it always cranked fine but it at lights or stop signs would die. Now it has stopped all together, it turns but wont start. I have a spark and we have tried the cam sensor and crankshaft. The fuel pump wouldn't go out while I was driving would it? or what could it be we are kind of at a loss.
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After getting to about 1/4 tank, I fuel up and fill the tank but when I try to start the car, it cranks for a while and then finally starts. It will idle really low so I have to rev it until the engine starts getting gas at a steady pace.
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So I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
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I have a 2009 Accent 4-door sedan.
I was told during an oil change in the spring that I would need a new battery soonish. I haven't bought one yet.
Last week I tried to start my car and it made a machine gun noise and wouldn't start. A friend jumped it and it started fine. I took it to Canadian Tire and a mechanic tested the battery and said it was over charged, 508 I think, should be 500.
Then today it won't start and is making the machine gun noise again. Now the horn and lights are dimming too when I lock it.
What is going on? I checked the posts; they are clean and tight.
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On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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My 2011 stick shift no air Accent has a hesitation or stumble on light acceleration that comes and goes. It may not occur for weeks then re-occurs. It is hard to reproduce intentionally. It never occurs in cruise. The CEL is not on. Most often occurs at 1400 to 1500 rpm with slight acceleration or a slight increase in load as coming to a slight hill. I tried injector cleaner a few times and changed air filter. It seemed more reloaded to induction airflow so I changed the MAP sensor. I understand the 2011 Accent does not have a MAF sensor. It is still occurring. It is fine in steady cruise as well as in hard acceleration. I am wondering if it is a TPS sensor problem. It has 60,000 miles and otherwise runs fine.
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I have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
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I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
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My Sonata has developed a hesitation when accelerating from a standstill. Sometimes the symptom is worse. I haven't identified any correlation of this symptom with any other scenarios.
Symptom : When at a stand-still, lightly pressing on the gas pedal doesn't result in corresponding slow acceleration, it is only after a certain threshold (of throttle application) has passed that power from the engine is transmitted to the wheels. When this occurs, the result is a jerky start.
In other words, trying to feather the gas pedal to allow a gradual and smooth acceleration from stand-still is not possible when this issue occurs.
I believe the 09' Sonata has a drive by wire throttle correct? If so, could this be a computer calibration issue?
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My overdrive keeps turning on and off. I've tried turning off the OD but it keeps switching on and off.
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So....the trunk light on my 09 GLS is not turning on. It was intermittent for a while..now its just gone. I checked the bulb and it works. I got the meter out and tested everything. It seems something in the trunk latch is the switch for the ground to turn on the light.
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AC Blower will not turn on. 10 and 40 amp fuse check good. Swap blower relay still blower will not turn on.
Is this problem common to the Accent 2010 model. Possibly the blower resistor open circuit.
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I have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
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I bought an 09 Accent and love the car, good mileage and actually quiet. I have developed a noise when I turn my steering wheel. It is not there when the car is cold, but after a few moments, when I turn a corner, I hear sort of rubber on rubber sound as I turn the steering wheel.
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A couple questions I have about my truck. I'm still new to the F150.
First, my truck has an Ecoboost and I have a slight stumble/hesitation when you start the truck cold. It clears up within 10 seconds and doesn't seem to affect drivability whatsoever.
Second, it seems that only my driver side mirror has the "dimming feature" to it. Is this normal?
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Anyway my issue is, my car is turning over but wont start. I notice that it will only start when the yellow immobilizer light comes on and then goes off.
If I try to start when there is no immobilizer light it wont fire up.
I have to take out the key and wait 20 secs. When I turn back on the ignition and I see the yellow immobilizer light, I know it will start?? The immobilizer light goes out when the car starts. Whats up or should I continue what I'm doing...
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The car drives great on smooth roads, but as soon as I hit a bump it jerks the wheel and if turning the car it jumps sideways (overall feels like the rear is kicking out)... Not a fun feeling.
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Relative owns a 2007 Sonata 3.3L V6 (58k or so), purchased from in-laws so no warranty, unfortunately. Recently, in cold weather the car has developed hesitation issues upon start up, ESC-Off light illuminates and CEL. Has to restart for somewhat normal operation.
Had a chance to look at it today and CEL had already turned off and only code stored is P2135.
Researching issue (mostly here, so thx!), looks like TPS is faulty and can be replaced separate from throttle body to save $.
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Turning my steering wheel left or right, especially when parked, there's a very noticeable creaking. This happens as well when I am going over bumps in a parking lot or somewhere at a low speed. The car itself turns fine, not sticking or power steering loss. So I am not quite sure whats going on here.. At 71k miles 2010.
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