AC Blower will not turn on. 10 and 40 amp fuse check good. Swap blower relay still blower will not turn on.
Is this problem common to the Accent 2010 model. Possibly the blower resistor open circuit.
My overdrive keeps turning on and off. I've tried turning off the OD but it keeps switching on and off.
View 1 RepliesThe blower and A/C on my 2006 Ford Fusion keeps turning on and off. The system has manual knobs and is not computerized. It turns on just for a few seconds and then turns off. The knob that controls the turning on and off of the system is in the off position when this happens. What could be causing this?
View 1 RepliesAccent 2009:
1. Blower fan keeps blowing when fan knob set at 0. It does turn off when key is off. Is that normal?
2. Low, high, washer, rear...all works, but Intermittent wiper setting doesn't work. Where do I look fuse/relay/switch itself...?
Recently, the air coming out of the vents has been intermittent, sometimes it blows sometimes it doesn't. I think I found the issue, the electrical contacts in the harness that plugs into the blower are either rusted out or have been almost burned out. Not as bad on the blower harness where this plugs in but I see some soot in there.
Once I removed this and tried wiggling it around, the blower comes on. Do I need to cut the harness and replace it with a new one or do I need to worry about the issue being traced somewhere else?
My girlfriend drives this car and she always has the A/C on either MAX or on the highest fan speed, I think that could be a culprit just from overuse. The other thing that comes to mind would be a wrong fuse or missing fuse somewhere, even though I checked the BLOWER fuse under the dash and under the hood and the relay. All of them are of the correct rating and do not look or smell burned out. (I'm not entirely positive on how to check/test relays)
Wiring Harness Socket that plugs into the blower : [URL] .....
Wiring Harness Socket on the blower : [URL] ....
My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesGot a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
View 2 RepliesSo....the trunk light on my 09 GLS is not turning on. It was intermittent for a while..now its just gone. I checked the bulb and it works. I got the meter out and tested everything. It seems something in the trunk latch is the switch for the ground to turn on the light.
View 3 RepliesMy hyundai accent has been giving me fits for about 6 months but I didnt think it was a major issue, apparently I am wrong. When it first started the check engine light would come on randomly and go off after a few minutes or even a day. Then it started staying on longer and when it would go off my car would stall. Then when it got cold twice I went out to warm my car before I left and when I came back out to leave it was dead, had to be jump started and while driving the first couple of miles it would die, it always cranked fine but it at lights or stop signs would die. Now it has stopped all together, it turns but wont start. I have a spark and we have tried the cam sensor and crankshaft. The fuel pump wouldn't go out while I was driving would it? or what could it be we are kind of at a loss.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
The wife's accent started hesitating when turning over to start. Like turn the key, engine will turn 1/4 turn, then nothing for a second or 2 ( without releasing the key) and then crank and start fine.
Checked connections at the battery, cleaned 'em. No CEL on.
I had a ignition cylinder freeze last winter, when my wife dropped her key in the snow and put it in with water on it. Had to heat the cylinder with a small lighter-style blowtorch and put low temp graphite in there.
Did I maybe melt something in there?? Something else??
I bought an 09 Accent and love the car, good mileage and actually quiet. I have developed a noise when I turn my steering wheel. It is not there when the car is cold, but after a few moments, when I turn a corner, I hear sort of rubber on rubber sound as I turn the steering wheel.
View 2 RepliesThe car drives great on smooth roads, but as soon as I hit a bump it jerks the wheel and if turning the car it jumps sideways (overall feels like the rear is kicking out)... Not a fun feeling.
View 7 RepliesTurning my steering wheel left or right, especially when parked, there's a very noticeable creaking. This happens as well when I am going over bumps in a parking lot or somewhere at a low speed. The car itself turns fine, not sticking or power steering loss. So I am not quite sure whats going on here.. At 71k miles 2010.
View 3 RepliesWhen I am sitting at a dead standstill and I turn the wheel lock to lock, left or right, I hear a clicking sound. The clicking is louder inside the car, but I can't tell if it's coming from the steering column or the various linkages in the suspension or drive systems.
If I drive in circles, with the wheel at a constant (or changing) angle, there are no clicks, so I don't think this is a CV joint issue.
What could be causing this noise? I really don't want to take off my lowering springs and restore this thing to the original configuration for a warranty repair visit to the dealership.
If I do, you may see a fire sale of H&R 20mm wheel adapters and B&G lowering springs in the near future.
Shortly after leaving the lot, the low air pressure light came on, and the check engine light.
The tires themselves state Max Pressure 44lbs. I checked, and each had around 28 lbs. So I inflated up to 44 lbs (all tires). The light is still on.
Do I likely have a bad sensor? Can a tire sales place check that for me or do I need to take it to Hyundai?
Need a brand new transmission at 36k miles? My 2010 GLS auto did....
View 24 RepliesMy 2010 Accent has been stalling intermittently, always when I am idling. I'll be at a stop light, and it will stall, and then it usually starts right up again. It is almost always the same stop light on my way to work, like clockwork, and likewise on my way home from work. Also, sometimes right after this stalling event, the motor will be a little rough on the highway, sputtering like it's not getting gas very well, but then it evens out after a while.
Yesterday for the first time it died and wouldn't start again. I suspected my fuel pump had gone out. I had it towed to a repair shop, but it started just fine for them and they can't re-create the problem. It doesn't give any computer codes at all.
I have been having this issue randomly, sometimes it won't occur for days and other times it happens in a short period. I will place my key in the ignition, and everything will chime correctly, and when I turn over my engine, it sounds like the engine catches then it just stalls. The things I have changed so far is,
battery ( needed to be changed anyways)
spark plugs ( was set to be changed)
air filter
cabin air filter ( no relevant but still...)
oil
At first I thought it could be bad gas, since I fill up sometimes at safeways etc, but in my tank right now is 91 octane shell, I thought it could be spark plugs since I was a little over due so I changed them, and the issue never popped up for 2 more weeks, then it came back.
if I use my car starter it seems to start better, but it is maybe 1 out of 10 times it will just crank continuously without catching or anything.
I can hear my fuel pump whirl when the key is turned but not started, I checked the oil today and it is full and a light color, maybe 500 km on this oil change.
Here is the youtube issue of what is happening... [URL] ......
I rather cover most of my bases without having to bring it in for servicing.
Not sure what happen that led to the Airbag light next to the speedo staying on.
Codes retrieved:
B1346 = DAB circuit resistance high
B1481 = DAB module circuit resistance high
B1329 = DFIS to SRSCM communication error
B2502 = Telltale ind light circuit malfunction
B1388 = Driver Seat track position sensor open or short to power
B1378 = DSAB circuit resistance too high
B2500 = Air Bag Warning light circuit fault
B1511 = Driver Belt Buckle switch circuit open or short to power
Where to begin solving for this problem.
I've had my new left over 2010 SE for couple weeks now. done 600 miles.
I noticed at first a couple times when shifting from 1st to reverse while parallel parking and still slightly rolling forward, the the gear grinded a bit, despite the clutch being fully depressed. I figured maybe with this manual tranny compared to others i've driven that you just have to be dead still before shifting into reverse.
But then yesterday morning from my driveway, from a standstill I shifted into reverse and it grinded too, again with the clutch fully depressed. Is this normal with these cars? I've driven manual gtis and a ford focus and never experienced this before? Is this a problem?
the fact that it's happened three times now within a couple weeks tells me it's not me being sloppy on the clutch, it is definitely grinding with my foot all the way down on the clutch.