Accent MC (2006-11) :: Front Tires Do Not Spin Freely
Sep 7, 2015
I've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape 3.0V6 with high miles. A while back the transmission on this vehicle went out while at work. I got the bright idea that I would tow it home with a dolly until the funds were available to make the repairs. We pushed it up onto the dolly and secured it. I also put it in park. It took me about a 1/4 mile to figure out what was with all the resistance (my first thought was "Dang, that sucker is a lot heavier than i thought"). I pulled over, put it in neutral then proceeded without any more problems. A junkyard tranny was put in it. Rides and drives fine. There is a whining noise that is very distinct and gets worse with increased speeds. It sounds like it is coming from the rear end. No noise while stopped.
I have checked everywhere i can reach to see if anything is hot... (thoughts were maybe a bearing) nothing found.
Fluid is full in rear end.
I just drove it and figured it would get worse or get better.
Now that winter is almost over I am very confident that the 4x4 is not working. It does not matter if you are in Auto or 4x4 only the front tires spin.
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1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
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My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
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I have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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I'm experiencing less torque and acceleration than I was getting when I first got the car. The car doesn't even have 1,000 miles on it yet. I'm wondering what is wrong with it. When I first got it, just pressing the gas half way would makes the tires spin till 6k rpm. Now the tires don't even spin while pressing it even further than 50% throttle. When I first got it, it had regular gas. Now I use 93 octane fuel. This should give it more power? I'm very confused as to why it was give so much and then now output so little.
My vehicle uses the Bridgestone Turanza tires.
This car has virtually every feature possible. BSM, Back Up Cam, LED DRL, leather, etc.
I've always owned Camry's. 1993, 2010, and now my 2013.
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I'm not trying to sound like some dumb kid here but it really bothers me that my truck can't spin the tires. I don't go around beating on this thing, but when my friend's 95 jeep cherokee with a bone stock I-6 can roast his tires off, its kind of embarrassing that my 570 ft lb diesel cant even get a chirp on wet ground. I do have a limited slip rear axle, but shouldn't I still be able to spin them at least a little?
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I got a 04 f150 5.4 and ive ran into trouble and im not sure whats the problem. So im up in the snow right now and every time i start to go threw some thick snow my tires start to spin out and my truck shuts off on me. It only does that when i really give it some gas and my tires are spinning. Could it be the throttle body?
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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Well its been almost 2 weeks since I've had the Ex (has 103K miles). Planning on new V code springs, Bilsteins front and rear , and rear Hellwig bar going in this weekend. Once I see how that that works I may also upgrade the rear springs to B code.
When I had it up yesterday I noticed the front right wheel does not spin freely. I can hear what appears to be the brake pad dragging.
Right not everything wrong with mine seems very common:
- very poor ride, 3/4" clearance between the front bump stop and suspension
- 4 door locks don't work (that's after the suspension fix)
- drivers heated seat not working
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While driving the other day and making a slow sharp turn, like a u turn, I felt my wheels binding like they were in 4WD. I got under the truck and I could not turn my front axles freely. I jacked each side up independently and I could spin each tire and the axle would turn as well.
I thought being out of 4WD that the axles would turn freely? Mine do not.
I have ESOF and my hubs are turned to AUTO.
Is this normal or do I have an issue with my hubs or transfer case?
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I had my car drop for a while now on megan ez coilover. Before I bought my new set of wheels, I drove the car with the OEM wheels and they never had any cupping issues. Then after I bought my AME Shallen with 20mm hub centric H&R spacers on Nankang NS, and then they started cupping on the front inside tires after 5000 miles. I had the alignment done and only had the toe adjusted.(don't have camber kit) At first i thought it was the spacers causing the issue, but then I bought Orden's with new Nankang NS and had the toe adjusted to spec's again. Camber is at -3 BTW. Recently i started hearing the same road noise so I inspected the tires and found it was cupping in the front again! I also checked the front end of any damage or worn out bushing and couldn't find any signs of damage. I always keep my tires at 40psi, torque them down evenly, and I'm using hub centric rings. My questions is do you think is the Nankang tires or do I have a suspension problem?
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My 1996 ford f150 4x4.. The problem is with the front drivshaft it does not turn even when the 4x4 is not engaged. The 4x4 works and engages and disengages properly but when it is not in 4wd the front driveshaft does not spin freely..
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125 TSI with 4 motion and recently have been getting quite a bit of front wheel spin especially on right turns. I can hear/feel the front wheel spin and also the TCS light is coming on. When the road is wet, it gets worse. Is this to be expected? The car is 2 years old and has only 24000kms on it so am a little disappointed with this. What may be wrong?
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Went to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
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So I have a '10 Accent Blue with 61,000 miles on it and the front end is 'clunking' again. 2 years ago under warranty I had the same sound and they replaced both front strut.
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