My 1996 ford f150 4x4.. The problem is with the front drivshaft it does not turn even when the 4x4 is not engaged. The 4x4 works and engages and disengages properly but when it is not in 4wd the front driveshaft does not spin freely..
View 1 RepliesBought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
View 1 RepliesI cannot figure out the interior lights by using the dimmer switch. Starting the vehicle and then trying to turn on either passenger or driver front dome light will not work. I continuously depress the right side of the dimmer switch it will turn on the REAR dome light and by depressing again it will shut off the REAR dome light. I can push either light in the front and it will not turn on. Once driving down the road and reaching a decent speed (40+) I can push the buttons and it will turn on and off by simply pushing the light. The buttons you use to turn on either light up front actually feels different---it easily "clicks" the light on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. How many cam shaft position sensor do I have ??? I replaced one but I swear I see one one the passenger side...
View 1 RepliesI'm normally in the bullnose section, but recently started working on my father-in-law's 96 ford ranger. He wanted me to replace the front rotors.
I replaced the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to replace the driver's side, I noticed the cotter pin and castle nut were missing. A nail was in the cotter pin's place. I backed off the spindle nut and found that the threads were eaten up, as was most of the spindle with various gouges and nicks.
1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 ......
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
Went to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
I have a 2002 Ford Escape 3.0V6 with high miles. A while back the transmission on this vehicle went out while at work. I got the bright idea that I would tow it home with a dolly until the funds were available to make the repairs. We pushed it up onto the dolly and secured it. I also put it in park. It took me about a 1/4 mile to figure out what was with all the resistance (my first thought was "Dang, that sucker is a lot heavier than i thought"). I pulled over, put it in neutral then proceeded without any more problems. A junkyard tranny was put in it. Rides and drives fine. There is a whining noise that is very distinct and gets worse with increased speeds. It sounds like it is coming from the rear end. No noise while stopped.
I have checked everywhere i can reach to see if anything is hot... (thoughts were maybe a bearing) nothing found.
Fluid is full in rear end.
I just drove it and figured it would get worse or get better.
Now that winter is almost over I am very confident that the 4x4 is not working. It does not matter if you are in Auto or 4x4 only the front tires spin.
06 f150 4x4 when locked in 4 hi or low front doesn't spin and there is a clanking..... not sure what to check first.... u joints look OK....
View 1 Replies1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
View 1 RepliesMy Explorer is a 1997 with the control trac 4x4 system. It's only purpose in life at the moment is to plow snow and its been doing that quite well. I typically leave it in 4lo all the time. Every once in a while, I will switch it to the other modes to ensure they are all working.
Today I was plowing and it looks like I'm getting nothing, or next to nothing to the front wheels. There is some shudder if the rear tires begin to spin, but the front never spin, or lock up. I can feel/hear the transfer case shift when I change modes between auto/4hi/4lo as I usually do, but the front wheels just are not doing their job. All three modes are not driving the front wheels.
The transmission was rebuilt a few years ago, and it's shifting fine. I'm suspecting the transfer case. Only my OD light is flashing, but it only does that once in a blue moon. I plugged my code reader in and it could not read those codes. I was able to clear the light though.
I drive a 1996 F-150, 188,000+ miles. Sometimes when you turn the key in the ignition, nothing happens. Absolutely nothing. But if you wait about 2 minutes, the truck starts O.K. This has occurred a couple of times when I was starting out and killed the motor by not giving it enough gas. But it's also occurred when the truck has been sitting for a number of hours or even overnight. It never fails to start after about a 2 minute wait. What's going on here? I've had the truck in the garage, but they couldn't replicate the problem and didn't do anything.
View 2 Replies96 F150 carbed 300 with a C6/208 SAS44/9" with 3.55 on 35s.
I put a transgo shift kit in the transmission before putting it in the truck, it also has a small stall. At half throttle you can manually shift 1-2-3 with no issue at all. Under full throttle when you shift to second it won't go into second until you push the shifter into third. Then it'll go to second and spin the tires when it grabs second in dirt. This is all in 4lo, I was gonna switch to 2hi and try it but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling under it to change it. The truck is a mud toy so will spend 90% of its time in 4lo.
I don't have a vacuum line currently hooked to the transmission because I have the same shiftkit (transgo) in my 77 and no vacuum line on it either and it works fine.
1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
I have a 1996 chevy cavalier 4-door. It is a 2.2 auto. I changed the passenger side cv shaft and now it won't start. I have lights it won't turn over. I put a new battery in no luck.
View 4 Repliesi have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
View 6 RepliesI posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?