Ford - F150 :: 1996 - Engine Overheats And Makes Transmission Pour Out Fluid?
Jul 13, 2012
i have a 96 f150 xlt 6 cyc. with auto, about 4 months ago we drove 150 miles where the engine overheated and transmission fluid started pouring out from bottom where dust cover is. when got home i filled up transmission with fluid and been good ever since with no leaks. yesterday went 70 miles and did good going down but on way back same thing, engine overheats then out comes the transmission fluid. this morning i filled it up and ran the truck and no fluid leak, what is going on with that.
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1996 Ford F450 1 ton diesel engine truck with approximately 100,000 miles has been leaking transmission fluid. Took it to mechanic who replaced the seal and converter. When idling, you can see it drip, drip, drip, etc. Now it is leaking more than before I had it worked on.
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96 F150 carbed 300 with a C6/208 SAS44/9" with 3.55 on 35s.
I put a transgo shift kit in the transmission before putting it in the truck, it also has a small stall. At half throttle you can manually shift 1-2-3 with no issue at all. Under full throttle when you shift to second it won't go into second until you push the shifter into third. Then it'll go to second and spin the tires when it grabs second in dirt. This is all in 4lo, I was gonna switch to 2hi and try it but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling under it to change it. The truck is a mud toy so will spend 90% of its time in 4lo.
I don't have a vacuum line currently hooked to the transmission because I have the same shiftkit (transgo) in my 77 and no vacuum line on it either and it works fine.
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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I posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I have a 1996 bmw z3 and theres bunch of problems with itone the transmission makes makes a loud noise when switching gears usually first, also you press the gas and it takes couple seconds for the car to accelerate.also when foot is on the brake the car will surge forward or accelerate i was told by bmw that the value cover gasket needs to be replaced cause its leaking oil the air mass meter needs to be replaced i was told by one mechanic this could be why the transmission is having problems or it could be the transmission needs to be replaced ~ any truth to this that the air mass meter could be causing problems with the tranny?? also the os sensor needs to be replaced the check engine light is on....so my question is that could all of these problems be causing transmission issues. There are other problems as well including power issues with the battery, stalling mostly because i havent been driving it also the ac doesnt work but heat does.
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i have a 1996 ford tausue lx about 150000 miles...when i starts the car up and i let it warm up some before i drive it..when i put it in drive the car jerks hard i did check transmission fluid and it was good.what could cause this..i did open hood up and i did see motor move back some in i put it in drive..
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with a 1.9 liter engine. I was checking my automatic transmission fluid and the dip stick shows 20 C and 65 C on the dipstick. How do I know if my fluid level is correct? Where should the mark be on level surface, in park with engine running.
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As the title states I own a '96 Grand Prix GTP with the 3.4L engine. I had been having a problem with my coolant leaking so I took it in to a shop I usually trust, they pressurized the system and found my water pump was leaking. Not surprising, I had suspected it was having issues. So they replaced it and all was good for about a day or two. I live about 5 - 10 minutes from work and as soon as I drove it longer than that, it started overheating at random intervals. I took it back in and they told me it was probably my head gasket but they couldn't see any visible evidence of it going bad so they said it must be in the early stages.
I was not satisfied, I hadn't had any problem until after the water pump was replaced and I've never had any major engine issues. I finally managed to nail down a sort of pattern to the overheating. It only starts to overheat once it has been running for awhile, whenever it does overheat neither of my radiator fans turn on, turning to the right while driving cools it down, turning it to the left while driving allows it to overheat again, revving the engine when it overheats ALWAYS cools it back down at least for awhile. The other strange thing is that it will overheat for awhile and then stop and go back to normal operation, my fans will work again, and the temperature never climbs past 210. Then at another random interval, it will start overheating again.
It doesn't sound like a head gasket going bad to me but then I've never had one go out on me. It sounds more like I have a coolant flow problem (maybe the new water pump is faulty?) because every time I rev it, it cools down immediately. Or maybe I have a faulty sensor/thermostat/computer module since my fans never run when it overheats and it never overheats when my fans actually turn on? If it's a head gasket I'll deal with it but at this point I am a little skeptical.
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I'm looking at a cousins 1996 integra that has some issues. It's a hand me down vehicle that has little maintenance. Probably regular oil changes and that's it. It has been overheated once in the past and uses coolant now. Coolant slowly disappears and she adds coolant to rad when it starts to get too hot. So likely, more overheat episodes. What are the chances just changing the head gasket will resolve the coolant loss?
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 small box bought new, now has 80,000 miles. The rear end started to make a slight roaring noise that started to turn into a vibration. That turned into a major vibration (windshield wipers would hop). I figured a bad U-joint, but it had no "clunking sounds". I took it to a non-dealer mechanic and he said the "rear end is shot, and also a bad leaf spring..." I do not tow with this truck, or go off road, but it does have a Tommy lift installed. Does this sound normal for the miles and usage of the truck? Any recalls for this model that effects the rear end?
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My 1990 F-250 with the 460 overheats when driving in overdrive. Driving a hundred miles will turn the trans fluid brown and the transmission is very hot even though it drives just fine. If I drive it out of overdrive I have no problems at all.
It all works fine except the overheating in overdrive, no flashing on the overdrive light. The tans shop is not getting a code, they tell me they have to rebuild the tranny.
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
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I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
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I have a 97 ford f150 v6 2wheel drive. I was driving to work when l heard rattling in the engine like something came loose when I stopped to check my transmission fluid was pouring out drained out in 2mins tops. What do you think it could be?
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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I drive a 1996 F-150, 188,000+ miles. Sometimes when you turn the key in the ignition, nothing happens. Absolutely nothing. But if you wait about 2 minutes, the truck starts O.K. This has occurred a couple of times when I was starting out and killed the motor by not giving it enough gas. But it's also occurred when the truck has been sitting for a number of hours or even overnight. It never fails to start after about a 2 minute wait. What's going on here? I've had the truck in the garage, but they couldn't replicate the problem and didn't do anything.
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My 1996 ford f150 4x4.. The problem is with the front drivshaft it does not turn even when the 4x4 is not engaged. The 4x4 works and engages and disengages properly but when it is not in 4wd the front driveshaft does not spin freely..
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