My car has a bit of trouble starting every now and again. I have noticed it is when I have low fuel. When I try to start it it will just keep winding over. I'll switch my car off completely and try again. It usually starts the second or third time. What could be the problem? Its a 05/06 Hyundai Accent
View 4 RepliesMy 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
View 2 RepliesMy wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
View 8 Replies09' Auto accent developed an issue that I haven't been able to sort out. Car began experiencing a condition where it was harder and harder to start, over about a 2 day period. As well, when stopped at a light it would idle fine, but almost stall when you tried to accelerate. Once above about 2k rpms it was fine, but then near 4k rpm it felt dead, didn't want to pull.
Only code was P0171.
Here is what I have checked thus far.
All injectors ohm out exactly at 15.1
-Fuel pump primes at key on like it should
-Verified cam/crank are timed properly (timing belt didn't slip a tooth)
-Car is MAP based, so no MAF to deal with. It's totally stock down to the paper air filter.
-Purge solenoid is closed and appears to be functioning properly.
I was checking things last night and this time it didn't want to start at all. I haven't checked for injector pulse or spark (it's coil on plug), but this didn't seem like part of the issue it was experiencing. Almost feels like a cam or crank sensor going out (timing is acting weird). Is there a relatively easy way to test the cam or crank sensors other than just trying new ones?
I have a 2009 Accent. Last year I started to have a hard start issue, very intermittent. It eventually got worse this year.
During the cold, it was never an issue, but during the summer damp or rainy days it occurred quite frequently.
It would turn over, but never start. If I pressed the gas peddle while starting it up, it usually would start the 2nd or 3rd time.
I changed the usual start up components; plugs, ignition coils, cam shaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor, and cleaned the throttle body.
None of those changes worked for the startup. When I removed my throttle body to fully clean it again, I noticed there was an extra air channel into the engine from the TB. Following this, I found the ISCA.
Removing, taking apart, and cleaning the idle speed control actuator seemed to have fixed the issue. It was so caked up with carbon deposit/build up, it couldn't fully rotate.
I used the throttle body cleaner to clean it out and then it began to spin freely (I removed it from the black sensor part first).
Since putting it back altogether, I haven't had a start up issue since.
Here are the notes from the service manual .....
Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
Have an Accent 2006 manual drive. Had this problem 3 times after considerable gaps.
First time, driving normally during the day, stopped for fuel. Switched off ignition, filled up, then suddenly did not start. Turned over but did not start. About after 3 minutes of trying (sometimes continuously and sometimes keeping a short break), started normally and I was off. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing. Did not mention to the service center during regular servicing as thought it was a one off incident.
Second time, several months after first incident, a warm and sunny day, went for a pollution test. Parked to wait. Was called for the test. Started and went over, completed and parked again to wait for the certificate. Got it in about 15 minutes. Then again, turned over normally but did not start. This time, battery died after several tries. So I had some people push and it started first time and I carried on. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Third time, about 2 months from the second incident, was driving normally in the early evening with no issues during the morning/day. Slowed down at a pothole in the road, and the engine just died. Turned over normally but did not start despite several tries. So while preserving the battery, I had some people push the car confident as in the second time that the car would start. But did not even after several tries. So while pondering what to do at the side of the road, after about 10 minutes, gave it another shot. Turned over and started normally on first try as if nothing had happened. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Has been about a month since, no problems. Just takes a wee bit longer than usual to start.
I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
View 2 RepliesI have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
I own a out of warranty 2008 Accent manual, now on 94 000km/58 408 miles. This morning, it started to not engage 2nd gear, then when I press the pedal hard it does, then sometimes 4th gear. What could be at fault here, and how do I fix it?
View 9 RepliesI have brand new ( 800KM ) Accent with Automatic transmission and I noticed that it shifts from 1st gear into 2nd kinda rough. By this I mean that I can feel shift pretty good, and I don't feel shifts from 2 to 3 to 4. I don't rev engine high, typically shifts occur when engine revs around 2000 rpm.
I am not sure if it is a transmission defect or this is the way it shifts? May be I need to breaking my car first and it will go away?
After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
I have a hyundai accent, 2002, I have the typical hard to start when filling up the tank. My understanding is there are 2 Fuel Vapor Purge Valves, one in the rear next to the charcoal canister, the other is in the engine compartment attached to the intake manifold - is that correct?
Which purge valve is the culprit to the hard start after fueling the car? Why can I only find the rear purge valve when looking for parts - is the one up front a dealer only part?
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. In the past 2 weeks, immediately after pumping gas into my car, when I start my car, its difficult to start my car and keep it running. For at least 3-4 minutes after putting gas into my tank, I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep my car running. Sometimes, it will shut off. Then, after a few minutes, all is good and I can drive the car without an issue. What's going on?
View 5 RepliesMy 2009 Accent started doing the Hard/Jerky shift problem that I seen discussed in the forums. Had check engine light, scanning showed a code P0717. My question is, which sensor should install?
View 4 RepliesMy 2008 seems to be having some intermittent trouble shifting into the proper gear at a couple of speed ranges.
Occasionally I'll start it up and pull out of a parking space (or leave a stoplight) and it feels like it's stuck in 1st well after it should have switched to a higher gear (I sometimes feel the upshift at about 10* mph). If I continue accelerating and hit about 40-50 mph, once again it appears to stay in the current gear instead of shifting.
When this issue is happening, the car feels even more underpowered than usual and takes way more throttle than it should to accelerate. This results in a cruising RPM of 3.3-3.5k at 60 mph. At that speed the engine would normally be doing about 2.2k RPM. Similar power and RPM conditions exist in the lower-speed range, too.
This whole thing is usually preceded by a rough shift into gear (D or R) when I first start the car. It's always had a slight lurch in the appropriate direction as I take it out of park, but this is really noticeable.
If I stop the car and come back in an hour, it (usually) appears to have reset itself. I can drive around and the transmission control is as good as always.
This has been going on for about a month, with an episode maybe every week or two. I took it to a shop and they didn't find any problems (I told them about the weird shifting and lack of power).
Does it sound like this is what's happening (it's not getting into the right gear)? Thoughts on what I should do? I can't really remember the speeds.
I have a 2009 accent.. fuel pump went so I just replaced it...it pumps fuel but not getting any fuel to the cylinders...had a plug out to test the spark and it has good spark but plugs were dry and very faint fuel smell...also changed the crankshaft position sensor.. what could cause a no fuel issue??car ran fine, shut it off and no start..checked the fuel pump and it wasn't working though it had power to it...why the injectors wouldn't be working??
View 12 RepliesDaughter got a new car 2010 accent gls. It burps fuel after every fill up (after the fuel nozzle shuts off like it should) and runs down the side of the car... sounds like hyundai has problems with this on a few different models. This is the first non-gm vehicle in our family. I grew up working with them and driving them and know them well.
Anyway, looks like 3 different parts here:
Having this same issue on my daughters 2010 Accent GLS. It burps up fuel after the fuel shuts off on the pump. Which exact part do I need?
-Vapor Canister
-Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid
-Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid
I'm assuming it's the vent valve solenoid, I've got the part on order. Looks easy to replace and I will be pulling the canister box down and taking a look when I replace it. I'll check everything with air (blowing into it etc...).
On a side note, combined fuel economy is 36.5mpg. I would expect that though, small engine, small car etc...