Accent MC (2006-11) :: Metallic Knocking Sounds Underneath Car
Jun 11, 2014
My car is accent 1.4 A/T 2012, and lately I've been hearing this metallic knocking sounds underneath my car. it happens every time after i drove my car for a longer distance and even on a shorter distance with no minimum running speed, you can hear the metallic knocking sounds whether the engine is on or off. Sometimes it is too loud you don't have to go out from the car you just have to roll the window down to hear it.
I've brought this already to my dealer and told me it was normal but I don't want to accept their answer so i refer it to another hyundai dealer. the second dealer made an adjustments on the muffler and catalytic something and even upgraded the CEU but to no avail and even adjusted my steering preload. BUT I'm still hearing it!! What to do.
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I have a 2006 Sonata GL, 2.4L, manual transmission, with about 130K miles. It has recently developed a knocking noise. The noise sounds metallic.
Some data: timing chain, guides, tensioner are all new, the noise is not coming from there.
Compression tests on the 4 cylinders came back with 200, 200, 180, and 200 psi readings. Tests were performed 3 different times, same gauge, all numbers came back the same.
The noise comes on only under acceleration (gas is supplied), and even then it's not consistent. For example, accelerating at 2500 rpm will make the noise, but the noise will go away at, say, 3000 rpm, while accelerating. Then again, the same thing can happen at 3200 rpm: accelerating will cause the noise, but up to a point, beyond which the noise goes away.The noise is not present at idle. I can always make the noise heard, just not consistently at the same rpm range.
I ran the engine with one spark plug disconnected at a time: the noise goes away when the #3 cylinder spark is disconnected.
Opinions vary: wrist pin, piston slap, rod bearing, etc.
Any tests I could run to narrow the problem? It has been difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from with a stethoscope...
Oil changes have been very regular (3.5K), using Mobil 1. Nevertheless, it has been burning oil.
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I currently own a 2006 prius which has done about 100k km. I've been hearing knocking and rattling sounds coming from the left tire whenever I go over a rough patch of road or even a speed bump, between slow to moderate speeds. It's currently bearable, but it gets irritating at times and it seems to be getting louder. What is the cause of these noise and how I can rectify it? I wish to get rid of it.
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My R32 has got about 9,400mi on it, and for the past 3k miles or so, i've been dealing with this metallic scraping/rattling noise coming from underneath the car. When I took it to the dealer, they said it was the exhaust flex pipe, so they replaced it under warranty. Next day after picking the car up, same noise. So i took it in again this morning and they are saying its the flex pipe again, and they don't know if it is fixable.
They are talking to VW tech assistance, and trying to figure something out. I really love this car, but if VW says there is no fix for it, I'm weary about possible future issues without fixes too. Apparently it has something to do with the length of the flex pipes and the material its made out of. He was saying one possible solution is stiffer engine mounts. We'll see where this goes.
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Over the past few days, my (factory) car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, with no one/nothing near it to cause it to go off. The car battery is less than 9 months old, the doors, windows, hood and trunk are all always closed. Why it is happening?
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So I've been living in FL and the other day there was a hurricane and the roads flooded. I think I got some water in my engine or somewhere because now my CEL is coming on then flashing and the car sounds like it's underwater! I haven't been able to drive it anywhere to get the code checked, I don't want to drive it because it seems like it's in rough shape. I checked all the plugs and cleaned them, but the 1st one was wet so I think there may have been water in there. After I cleaned the plugs I reset the ECU and the CEL was gone and I drove it 2 miles w/o issue. Then I went to the automotive store to get some oil/filter, etc to change the oil. I get back to my car and as soon as I turn it on again the CEL comes on and then starts flashing after a few mins of me revving it. I noticed that there is water coming out of the exhaust, like a lot more than normal, so what is happening. I did the oil change with no problems but when I started it again the CEL came on and started flashing. 2007 Accent SE
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Got a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
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Ok, I've been hearing the strangest noise under my car for awhile now. It sounds for all the world like a drum stick is hanging by a rope, swinging back and forth, and hitting against something solid. It makes 3-4 loud taps and the vibration can be felt through the gas pedal/floorboard. It ONLY happens when pulling out while turning left or right and going over a rough entrance like a rain gutter that bounces the car pretty decent. So whatever it is doesn't start swinging under normal driving. For the life of me I can't imagine what could be that heavy to make noise like that and not be causing any other problems.
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See this thread (or the countless others) for background info: [URL] .....
Basically, at least for me, ever since my R32 was new I would hear this metallic "tink" sound when in reverse. Usually noticed at the end of reversing, just about when I hit the brakes to shift into drive. It happened always. Flat ground, slopes, cold engine, warm engine, etc...
It sounded like a coin dropped from my engine and landed on a piece of sheet metal. It never bothered me enough to take it in for service, but it was still annoying.
After a fellow OZ R32 owner suggested dampening the tranny cable with silicone (or similar), I finally decided to take a crack at this sucker. You'll have to remove the airbox to access the heat shield.
Here's a closer look at the problem area:
And a closer look, showing the torn heat shield that protects the tranny cable from the exhaust. The obvious guess here is the tear was allowing the shield to move against itself, causing the noise I would hear.
All I did was bend the shielding away from the cable a bit so that they weren't pressed against each other anymore. Didn't bother trying to insulate the cable with silicone or anything. Fixed my problem 100%, can't believe I've waiting this long to do this 5 minute fix.
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My manual transmission has been making some funky ringing type sounds when cold. Pretty sure it's the trans since pressing the clutch in stops it. It always happens around 2k and is worst when engine breaking. When I just start the car there is a very very faint ringing that goes away as soon as I press the clutch even a tiny bit.
The car has about 45k miles and the clutch itself feels strong and shifting is absolutely fine, I changed the oil to Redline the past summer. Maybe throw out bearing?
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Today, the air conditioning stopped working in my 2003 Elantra. Just stopped blowing cold air. Then the engine thermometer kept on climbing. When I pulled over home, I lifted the hood and heard a lot of bubbling and gurgling sounds, and coolant fluid leaked out underneath the car.
What could be the cause of this? When I let the car stay for a while, the AC did kick back on, but only for a few moments and the thermometer kept on climbing again until I turned the car off. The fan is blowing, I can hear it, but it is obviously not cooling the engine off appropriately.
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I told them that my car sometimes when I accelerate a knocking or rattling sound comes from underneath the hood. I asked them to check it. I told him it sounded exactly like an older car I had many years ago which was the result of bad gas or too low octane.
With my older car I added higher octane gas (89) and the sound went away. I had a 2011 Prius before and never had this problem and I get gas at the same gas station for years.
So the mechanic test drove my car and said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. So I'm stuck with the annoying rattling/knocking noise when I accelerate (which happens about half the time), but now I'm experiencing another problem.
A couple days later I drove to get dinner. One way it is about 7 miles. Almost the whole way the ICE would not turn off. I would be at stop light, wouldn't turn off. I pulse and glided, when I glided the ICE remained on. Take my foot off the gas at slow speeds, ICE still on.
Finally towards the last 1 or 2 miles it started going into EV when i let the foot off the gas. On the way back it ran normal. It's been close to a week now since I brought it in for service and I only had trouble one other time.
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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I am seeking to identify a problem my hyundai accent model 2009. when it s cool or started with a time period gap between four to five hours. it some times not start with a try of three to four times and then start but giving some knocking sound, it went away after five minutes . once start and warm it is ok and again started when warm.
I did computer check but it result is normal and have changed also the spark plug and fuel filter but problem still exist. the problem may in timing belt -or fuel pump may any other reason.
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I'm having a problem with my Prius. It pings under acceleration and it sounds like something metallic is rattling. It only happens when I use 87 and 89 oct. I use 91 premium to reduce the ping however, gas prices are rising and I want to go back to 87. There are no warning lights or anything and the ping has been happening for quite some time now.
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The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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1) After 10000km the car started to develop some front suspension knocking sound going over potholes. After three trips to a dealer they finally said that it was a loose stabilizer bar which apparently is "very common". They tightened it and the problem seemed to go away. Now after 40000km the problem seems to have came back. I am starting to think that maybe it is somehow related to cold temperature because it seems to get a little better once the car has been warmed up and it has been going for some time.
I don't really care about the noise, but I want Hyundai to fix it if there really is a problem.
2) When driving 40-60km/h with the sunroof open I get a resonant wobbling sound. If I open one of the windows just a bit it disappears. Sounds like a poor sunroof wind deflector design to me. (I have driven Mazdaz and Hondas with sunroofs and none of them had that problem)
3) Whats up with those super heavy 16' aluminum wheels!!!! Is it just me or it feels like they weigh more then the steel ones? The car even feels faster when I put on my winter tires on steel rims.
Other then that the car has been pretty good. I am not getting anywhere near the factory specified fuel efficiency 6.5-7.5l/100km hwy and 8-9l/100km city, but I do drive it fairly hard, so that is OK. It still amazes me though that my 15yr old civic was getting the same mileage with a comparable performance. You would think that there would be some progress in automotive technology....
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Hearing a "metallic knocking"-like sound coming from the pillar-area behind the driver and/or passenger seats? See this thread: [URL] ....
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Prius has taken on a new habit. When making turns at any respectable speed, there's a very noticeable knocking sound. I've had the windows rolled down and can't tell whether it's coming from the right side or the left. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front.
I just put him up on blocks and rolled under to check out the front suspension, turning mechanism and anything else I can see. It wasn't long before I realized what I'm looking at nor am I likely to recognize any problems if I saw it. Having said that, nothing looked broken or dangling.
He's due for a 100,000 mile check-up. Since I'm heading to the dealership, it would be easy for me to have them look at it.
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I have a 1998 E39 535i that has a knocking sound coming from the front right wheel area. The noise can be heard mainly at low speeds and when touching the brake (not only when touching the brake though). It sounds like a load of golf balls rattling around in the bottom of a golf bag.
The car has been to BMW who changed discs and pads to no effect and in the last week I have taken it to an independent mechanic who cannot find anything wrong with the brakes or wheel bearings.
I have been assured that the sound is not dangerous but it is driving me up the wall! I should also mention that it only seems to occur when the vehicle is warm.
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