Got back from an hour n half rode trip and noticed my cooling fan wasn't shutting off. I know it usually stays on for a bit afterwards so I waited awhile to see if it would shut off and after 2 hours it was still running? What it could be, what needs to be replaced, and if it's going to be a pricey project?
View 1 RepliesOne of my cooling fans will not shut off, I think it is the aux fan. Anyway it will fun till batt is dead either hot or cold .
View 2 RepliesI am throwing 8 codes.. I drive a 1997 passat glx vr6 and I most recently changed waterpump and maf sensor .. My car keeps shutting off it turns over but does not idle. I can drive it but when I come to stops it shuts off.
These are the codes: P1582 P1426 P0134 P0102 P1580 P0306 P0303 P0305
I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl with a very peculiar problem. The car will start and run fine as long as I don't have to shut it off and restart it. However, once I shut it off, it will not start back up unless I give it some gas. Once started, the car will not idle unless the gas is pressed to maintain revs. This happens when the car is shutoff for a just one second, and only when warm. Once the car cools down, it starts and idles fine.
I've tried changing the FI Main Relay and it didn't work. I've also flushed the coolant and changed the radiator cap which seemed to work a little bit. I recently cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve which didn't make any difference. The Fuel Filter has been replaced as well. There are no CELs on and the car has 267,000 miles.
Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
View 3 RepliesSeveral months ago some kind of sensor was replaced on my 1991 Honda Accord. This was the case where the fan would sometimes go on after the engine was turned off. And to turn off the fan it was sometimes necessary to turn on the ignition.
What led up to all this was that one time I was driving up a fairly steep incline to a park. When I turned the engine off that is when the fan turned itself on.
Well, I drove up to that park the other day and the same thing happened (after the whatever was replaced). One thing different though, I did detect a faint whiff of what smelled like burning rubber when I exited the car (to check on the fan).
Two weeks ago I had to brake suddenly while driving in town and my A/C immediately stopped cooling although the fan continued to work. I drove it home and the next morning when I started my car the A/C worked fine. It was working fine until yesterday when I was driving and again had to brake suddenly to pull over after taking a wrong turn. The A/C immediately went out again. Only this time the A/C didn't ever start working correctly again.
2003 Honda Accord EX - A/C problem related to hard and sudden braking?
My 1994 honda accord station wagons cooling fan is working but the temp gauge still goes all the way up then back to normal numerous times while driving.. I park on the side of the road while the car is on, pop the hood to check and see any signs of over heating but the motor seems to be normal.. What could be happening??
View 10 RepliesI have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
*1996 Honda accord LX. 255, 498 miles.
Well, a couple months ago I think I overdid it on the seafoam spray in my PCV valve. It was kind of hell to start, I put some starter fluid in there and it finally cranked right over. I thought that was the end of it, but now I'm thinking it was a coincidence.
Today I went to start my car and it wouldn't rev up to about 200 max out and then drop. If I stopped cranking it with the key, it would die. Well I put starter fluid in the car and it still wouldn't go! I had to crank it for about 12 seconds to get it to turn over, normally when the engine catches(My foots full on the throttle when it won't start) it soars to 2.5k RPMs pretty quick. I started it later at school and it acted like it wanted to give me trouble, but a second past and it turned over and started running. I pull into the driveway today and I see my oil light flickering a little bit. First time I've ever seen it, a little worried! I turn the back on, starts up right away, to see if the oil light comes back on and nothing. But still worried.
I also got a coolant leak somewhere that I haven't been to diligent about finding. I don't see coolant anywhere on the driveway, my cars drinking coolant and I don't know where it's going. I checked it the other day and the reservoir tank was bone dry and so was the top of the radiator. I just added some UV dye to see where it's going, UV flashlight is on the way.
I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl. with 150 K miles. Had a coolant leak that the shop fixed. About 60 days later, same problem. I have to refill radiator every other day. What I noticed is a brown soft muck buildup at the radiator cap area. Also the car seems to run rough on and off. The underside of the oil cap is clean, no carmel color ( oil and coolant mixture) buildup.
View 5 RepliesIntermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
View 2 RepliesMy sons 1996 accord has a constant drip coming from the right side of the motor (4cy). I think it may be the water pump, as I see no hoses in the area where the leak appears. How difficult a job would this be and what do you suppose a garage would charge.
View 6 RepliesThe check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
View 7 RepliesSo, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
The ECT sensors on my 96 accord was broken. Hence the car overheated and smokes were coming out of the hood. Took the car to a honda dealer, here's what need to be replaced.
Radiator & cap
Lower & upper hose
Clamps
Thermostat
Coolant reservoir
ECT sensors
To do the repair they estimate 7 hrs of labor. I am not mechanically inclined so is this within the ballpark of how long it's going to take to replace the parts listed above. Does the 7 hr estimate seem reasonable?
My 1996 Honda Accord V6 has a stuttering problem. It only happens (or is only noticeable) when driving at a constant speed. It is most noticeable when driving in the 45 - 55 mph range. It feels like the engine has millisecond breaks in power. And this does not happen all the time. Some days, it drives just fine with no problems. It idles fine. The problem is not noticeable, if there at all, during acceleration.
One other piece of information that might - or might not - be relevant is that the tachometer seems to be out of its mind. It bounces all over the place up and down. This also does not happen all the time, and it seems to me, though I'm not 100% certain, that the stuttering problem only happens when the tach is crazy..I have had no luck getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem. They claim the tach problem is totally unrelated.
My '96 Honda Accord started smoking from under the hood as I pulled into my garage today. Upon closer inspection it seems like it was steam, not smoke, and it came from a crack in what I assume was some portion of my coolant line. The crack is in a solid, plastic tube that runs right along the fore-most part of the car, right along where the latch to unlock the hood. There is an escape valve that warns not to open it while the engine is hot because of the coolant that will be under pressure, hence the supposition that it is leaking heated coolant.
Obviously this needs to be fixed. So I have a few questions.What could have caused the crack?Is there a way to repair the crack without replacing the part?How serious if this / How far can I get away with driving?
This car started doing this two weeks ago. At first it would only take 2 or 3 tries, and mostly on days cooler than 65 degrees. Then last week it took 9 times once and 15 times another. Sometimes it starts right up several times in a row. New spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, etc. Battery is new and connection is fine. It "clicks" or gives a quick "chug" but won't turn over when it does this. Initially, I didn't notice any noise at all when it first started doing this, but I may have just missed it. Also, it's done it recently on days in the 80's, so temp. might just be coincidence. Most likely to do it after sitting overnight or for more than six hours or so, then, if driven and started several times within the next few hours, usually starts right up, but not always. Very inconsistent. I've been told starter's going out, clutch switch, and fuel filter, but mechanic friend says description doesn't completely add up to any one possibility...
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