I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
View 3 RepliesHaving issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
View 1 RepliesI have a '96 Chevy Silverado that twice (in about as many months) has had some trouble starting. When I turn the key the engine starts to crank, then there is a loud pop and the engine stops. When I crank it again the engine will start, although more slowly than usual. What could be wrong?
View 19 RepliesThere are bits of foam blowing out of the ac vents on my chevy pickup. Took it to the shop. They checked it over and said that the AC is functioning properly no problems with the system. The foam they state is coming from the doors inside of the ac system and suggested that I ignore it. I looked closer inside the vents with a flashlight and I do believe they are correct from what I saw. It is messy as it is greasy if squished. I am wondering if try to use an air compressor to blow out the vents and remove as much of that junk as possible and was it very successful?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 RepliesVehicle - 2005 Suburban LS, 5.3L V8; manual slide temp controls, separate controls for driver and passenger sides.Issue - In winter drive side vents will suddenly switch from blowing hot air to cold air. Just the opposite happens in the summer with drive side vents suddenly switching for blowing cold air to hot. Interestingly the passenger side vents operate normally. Sometimes if I stop and restart the vehicle the system will start working properly again but this does not always work.
View 2 RepliesAround 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
View 4 RepliesAround 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
I just purchased a 2004 toyota camry limited edition about a month ago. During the last week off and on while the air conditioning is on it will quit cooling and the a/c light will flash on and off until I turn it off. Sometimes I can turn it back on and it will stay on, sometimes it will do it again. Sometimes I can get in the car, turn it on, and it just stays on and doesn't flash at all even on long trips. Anytime the a/c is on, the air is perfectly cold. It's only when the light is flashing that it quits cooling. Today is the first day that it did it multiple times on the way home from work.
By the time I got to my drive way though it wasn't going off and flashing but was once again staying on and cooling perfectly. Since I just purchased the car and have car payments on it, I am not rolling in dough. I have read a few posts that it's possibly the compressor but since mine blows so cold when it's on I do not think that is my problem...then again I could be wrong.
I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
Power steering quit while driving in freezing weather. Checked fluid was overflowing when pulled out dip stick. What is problem ?
View 4 RepliesGot back from an hour n half rode trip and noticed my cooling fan wasn't shutting off. I know it usually stays on for a bit afterwards so I waited awhile to see if it would shut off and after 2 hours it was still running? What it could be, what needs to be replaced, and if it's going to be a pricey project?
View 1 RepliesWas just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
I have an 03 Ram 1500 that quit blowing hot air. I have heard of doors not opening to divert the air to the heater core. Heater hoses are both hot, so I'm pretty sure the water is going where it's supposed to, just not the air.
View 3 RepliesIn 1970 I bought one of the first Chevrolet Blazers. I drove it until two years ago when it finally was just too worn out to drive, at close to 300K miles. I sold it to someone who is in the process of restoring it for show. I knew that I wanted an other 2 door Blazer, but they quit making them in 1995. After a long search I purchased an original 86K miles on a 2 door 1996 GMC Yukon SLE. I love this car.However, I have just experienced my first mechanical failure. I am a fairly good shade tree mechanic. At 70 years old I have worked on every vehicle I have ever owned. So I am trying to figure out what has gone wrong with the cruise control. On a return trip from our lake house in Kansas (yes, there are lakes in Kansas) to my home in Nebraska, as I was going up and down the rolling prairie hills, the cruise control started having trouble going up the inclines. Then it quit working altogether. I checked the fuses and they are ok. My next thought is the control unit has quit working. I looked for a replacement unit and saw the price.... Is there something else that I could check before I replace the control unit? Is there any way that I can verify the control unit is at fault
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 subaru legacy (2.2L) wagon. A couple of years ago, we had to replace the engine after a head gasket issue. A couple months after this replacement, this issue developed. The car would be idling normally, and just quit. No rough idling, no warning lights - just on / off. It only occurs with the engine idling (stop lights, parked, etc.) and will occasionally be proceeded by a rough feeling transmission shift while driving (especially between 40- 55 mph), though I do not know if it is related.
This issue is intermittent, and does not seem to occur until the engine has been running for at least some time. Normally the car will restart immediately, with a flashing A/T oil temp light that will disappear after a few seconds; however, sometimes it requires more attempts to restart, lately. I have taken the car in a few times, but, unfortunately, the subaru dealership could not replicate the issue. It is beginning to happen more frequently now, and I am about ready to take the car back in. What it could be.
I have cleaned the MAF sensor per instructions already - that seemed to work for a few weeks. I was thinking of attempting to clean the idle air control valve or replacing the fuel filter.
I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
I have a 2003 f250 SD 5.4L 2wd. Yesterday I get in and start it up .. no hot air just blows cold. What to check
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 is acting really strange. The a/c quits blowing once you get up to 65 mph or so. It looks to me to be a damper problem, because the temperature stays pretty cool, it just doesn't blow as hard (like, almost not at all). You can hear the fan rip roaring away and it sounds like it is dead heading in the lower part of the passenger side in the climate control system.
I checked all the dampers and they seem to have full range of motion, it is not the main damper that goes between hot and cold, that one works at any speed, the other two seem to be working also, but for some reason whenever i get up to high speeds, the air just poops out. If you slow back down, rotate your climate control from ac to vents and back again, it starts working fine. Speed up again, and it poops back out. Is my vacuum pump out?
I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.