Camry :: 2004 Toyota LE AC Quit Cooling And Light Flashing On And Off
Jul 24, 2014
I just purchased a 2004 toyota camry limited edition about a month ago. During the last week off and on while the air conditioning is on it will quit cooling and the a/c light will flash on and off until I turn it off. Sometimes I can turn it back on and it will stay on, sometimes it will do it again. Sometimes I can get in the car, turn it on, and it just stays on and doesn't flash at all even on long trips. Anytime the a/c is on, the air is perfectly cold. It's only when the light is flashing that it quits cooling. Today is the first day that it did it multiple times on the way home from work.
By the time I got to my drive way though it wasn't going off and flashing but was once again staying on and cooling perfectly. Since I just purchased the car and have car payments on it, I am not rolling in dough. I have read a few posts that it's possibly the compressor but since mine blows so cold when it's on I do not think that is my problem...then again I could be wrong.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry LE, and the seat belt light keeps on flashing and the airbag light is solid. We have tried literally everything possible, tried replacing the seat, replaced the seats sensors, tried a airbag module out of another 07 camry with exact same part #. Toyota have diagnosed that all the systems for airbag is fine, except it has something to do with the seat belt of the drivers side/or module but all that's been checked and still no luck. My car is due for Safety inspecting coming month and need this to fixed. How to handle this. Btw light came on because we had a blown fuse for the drivers power seat, and my mechanic thought that it was the motor so we replaced the seat and noticed that it wasn't the motor. Was just the fuse and we put back the original seat and everything is functional except the lights came on. No accidents on it to the extent i know. and the wiring is all plugged back properly without anything like wiring damage.
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This is for our '05 Toyota Camry with 125K miles on the ODO, has ABS but no TPMS.
Around a few weeks ago the ABS light started flashing on start-up. Turned engine off and it went away. This has happened 3 times to far. The light stays off otherwise. Before this we had new tires installed and the car aligned and they said the rear was a bit off (had uneven tire wear), not sure if related or not.
I was able to read the code with shorting two pins and I get 33 & 34 which is both the rear wheel sensors. The part that I am suspicious about is both sensors going out together that not make sense. So I am thinking it is the wiring somewhere. Hopefully not the module ...
For now I have cleared the codes and want to see if they return. The sensors are expensive and seems like I have to take the rear bearing off to change them, so not keen on just throwing parts at it. How to approach the troubleshooting?
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I own a 2004 Toyota Camry. Its just under 100,000 miles. A few days ago the ABS and brake lights started flashing on and off at the same time. They stay on for a second and then go off. It doesn't happen every time I drive the car but it is happening more than it's not. The place my husband took it to said they can't diagnose the problem unless the lights stay on. Is it safe to drive the car?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with electrical problems that started showing up recently. One day the check battery light turned on and about 15 minutes later the AC would lose power intermittently. After parking the vehicle that day I tried to start up and only heard a rapid clicking sound. I exchanged the battery since it was still under warranty and everything seemed to work fine for one whole day. The next day the battery light turned on again, followed by the ABS warning light, and then the airbag warning light. Within about 5 minutes the dashboard back light started flickering and other warning lights started lighting up randomly. Within a minute of that the car shutoff and would not start back up again.
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This morning (cold outside) I started my 2011 Golf TDI and the cooling system light started flashing.
The owners manual says to contact my dealer if this happens. I originally thought that it was because the coolant was low, but the manual states that if the coolant is low, the light will be solid.
I scanned the car with my VAG-COM and there were no related faults found.Perhaps my owners manual is wrong and it really is because the coolant was low? (that's how my mk3 was).
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
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The door in the dash wont go to defrost. It just quit today. I assume its vacuum controlled. What do i need to do to fix it? I thought about pulling the dash vent where i can reach in there n have a look but it doesnt want to come out. 1992 Toyota Camry....
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I purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry Limited Edition in very good condition. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it but runs just like new. The previous owners must have taken very good care of it because inside and out it looks brand new. It runs great, and the only thing I have had to do so far is replace the a/c relay to get the a/c blowing cold again. This is my question. I decided to test my fuel economy, so i filled the tank with premium gasoline 91 octane.
I reset the trip ODO, and have only driven the car in the city. With the A/C always running, I usually drive anywhere from 4 to 6 miles a day during the week and maybe about 12-15 on the weekend. Well i am down to about an 8th of a tank, the gas light is not on yet but it is pretty low on gas.
According to my trip ODO I have driven 240 miles. Now if this car has a 18.5 gallon tank, that means that with premium gas I am getting about 13 miles a gallon. Even for city driving, that seems just terrible. My 1999 Ford Taurus SE with a DOHC V6 gets 17 and my camry is not even a V6. So I am wanting to know what could be causing this? The car runs perfect, it doesn't miss at all, it sounds great and the oil has been changed and it has great tires.
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When the cruise light flashes the engine ideals at a lower RPM. Usually not a big deal, but when I'm in reverse the car will often stall out. The flashing light comes and goes without apparent cause.
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I bought a 1996 Toyota Camry this summer. While I was away, my parents would start it every once in a while, and the last time they did the lights would not stop flashing. The hazard lights, glove box, clock are all flashing. I have the battery disconnected until I can figure it out.
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I went to go fuel up my '04 Toyota and when I turned the car back on, the radio and lighter (and the heat at first - it's working now...) were dead. What this could mean?
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I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
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I have a 2004 Camry that the cooling fans won't turn on at all. I checked one of the cooling fans by running direct power and it worked. I then checked all the fuses relating to fans and A/C. Then checked relays by using the horn relay in Fan 1 and Fan 3, which are both 4 pin. I bought a new relay for Fan 2 as it was a 5 pin and still no change. The fans don't come on at any stage, turning on A/C or letting the car idle to the point of the water boiling from overflow. I'm thinking it's not the sensors as the fans should turn on when the A/C is turned on.
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I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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It all began on my 1997 Camry when the driver's front turn signal began the rapid flashing thing, indicating to me that the bulb in the front was out. I replaced the bulb. The running light part works, but the flasher still does not. On the front passenger side of the car, the turn signal works, but the running light does not. I replaced the passenger side bulb at the same time I replaced the driver's side bulb. The flashing turn signal works as it did before, but the running light still does not go on.
The problem shouldn't be the bulbs - they are new. The flasher unit behind the fuse box should affect both lights flashing, so it probably is not that.
What thing or things can cause one light to flash for the turn signal but not be on constantly for the running light (passenger front side) and to work as a running light being constantly on, but not flashing as a turn signal (driver's front side)?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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I have a toyota corolla 2010 with a flashing blue light underneath the steering wheel which has been consistently flashing for the better part of a year. I can't find anything about this online.
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April 2009, I bought a 2009 Toyota Venza which I totally love. About 2 weeks into ownership the battery went dead. I had it jump startd and all was well. In the time since I bought it, the battery has gone dead 5 times. Numerous trips to dealer and can't find anything. The final straw was when I was having car washed and the battery went dead. I had to call tow truck to drag me out of car wash an take car to dealer. This time they saidit was a bad battery. Now my dashlights are flashing dim to real bright and my TRAC light comes on so I can't put car into gear.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
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