Volvo :: 2006 S60 Temperature Gauge Quit, Cooling Fan Stuck On
Nov 19, 2009
The temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
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Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
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I recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
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The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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Just wondering if this is anything to be concerned about. I have a 2006 Saturn Vue. It has just over 80,000 miles on it. The temperature gauge has always registered just below the "second mark" once the car is warm. As of last week, the gauge is now registering slightly past the "second mark." So, higher. It is no where near the "red" zone, and nothing seems to be wrong, but it has me concerned. I took it in for service and they said "it is still well within the normal range, don't worry about it." But I think something made the gauge go higher, and I am concerned about a problem lurking. Am I being a Nervous Nellie? I love my Vue and want to take good care of it.
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Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2wd (V6-3.7L) that is showing an overheat on the temperature gauge on the dashboard. I replaced the radiator (which I noticed had pin hole leaks), the water pump, thermostat, and the temperature gauge sensor. The car is no longer running through coolant, but the temperature gauge on the dash still reads an overheat. I do not have any bubbling when the engine is cool, no white smoke, the fan turns on just fine, a/c and heater work, no visible leaks, equal heat from both rubber hoses to and from the radiator and fluid seems to be passing through them.
There is also no smoke and no weird sounds from the engine. The overheat on the gauge comes after about 10 minutes of operation and happens whether I am driving on the highway or stopped at light.The only thing that causes the temperature gauge to go down to normal is turning on the heater full blast.Is this issue just a short in a wire somewhere? Should I start thinking head gasket? If yes to head gasket, should I use the "sealants" that are out on the market as a temporary fix?
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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Today my a/c stopped working, it just blow normal temperature air not cooling, never had a bad experience with it before, I even use it not on the lowest set up, always on 19 Celsius. It was working fine when i arrived at work, 10 minutes later My boss told me to pick something up and when I turned the a/c on it Never worked.... Is this normal?
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I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
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This video is about the Toyota Prius Gen 3 Temperature Indicators and cooling system overheating. I thought the prius did not have temperature indicators but found out it did, so this video is about how to know if your toyota prius is overheating and understand the basics of its cooling system.
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I just purchased a 2004 toyota camry limited edition about a month ago. During the last week off and on while the air conditioning is on it will quit cooling and the a/c light will flash on and off until I turn it off. Sometimes I can turn it back on and it will stay on, sometimes it will do it again. Sometimes I can get in the car, turn it on, and it just stays on and doesn't flash at all even on long trips. Anytime the a/c is on, the air is perfectly cold. It's only when the light is flashing that it quits cooling. Today is the first day that it did it multiple times on the way home from work.
By the time I got to my drive way though it wasn't going off and flashing but was once again staying on and cooling perfectly. Since I just purchased the car and have car payments on it, I am not rolling in dough. I have read a few posts that it's possibly the compressor but since mine blows so cold when it's on I do not think that is my problem...then again I could be wrong.
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I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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2nd time happening to me: I started my car, backed up and drove few hundred feet before stopping at a traffic light.
While stopping there, I noticed the engine cooling fan was running at max and the temperature was going rapidly up (in less than 10sec the gauge almost hit the red line).
While the gauge was going up I shifted the gear stick to P and the gauge dropped to normal in less than 5sec.
I shifted back to D and the car drove normally ever since.
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The temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
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I was going up a little grade a couple days ago and the engine suddenly quit, the temperature and oil light came on, the heat gauge buried on hot, and it threw a code. I pulled over and it was still idling so I made a U-turn but it was in limp mode and would only go about 10 MPH, so I made it home and put water in it so it's good now but it still says service engine soon. What is the code going to say and am going to have to pay to get rid of it. (the light). I have a new cap coming.
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I read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
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I just started recently getting this code on my '02 F150 with the 5.4. It only started doing this since the temperature started cooling off. The light, next to the oil pressure gauge comes on only at initial start up. Once the motor warms up, it goes off. I'm due for an oil change, which I'm getting today.
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