I just started recently getting this code on my '02 F150 with the 5.4. It only started doing this since the temperature started cooling off. The light, next to the oil pressure gauge comes on only at initial start up. Once the motor warms up, it goes off. I'm due for an oil change, which I'm getting today.
View 4 RepliesI have a E350 5.4 with 200,000 miles and it ran great before winter, this spring I fire it up and it got a miss I drive it anyway it starts to clear up and now the 1289 code. Everything looks fine coolant engine temp. I wonder if you can bypass the Cylinder Head Temp sensor. I am thinking the engine management is causing the miss to cool the engine.
View 3 Replies2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
View 3 RepliesSometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
View 1 RepliesThe brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
I have a 97 f150 (built 96 as 97 model), 4.2l 4x4, auto tranny. Here's the problem, when I turn my key forward to run position my starter kicks on and starts the truck, and stays engaged. I have a constant 14v at the signal wire on the starter relay (yellow red stripe). Also tranny started to slip, od light flashing. I replaced ignition lock cylinder, ignition/ starter switch, starter relay, starter, and today transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch 8 pin), same problem. Cel code that I had 2 days ago was P0707 tr sensor low input.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
View 2 RepliesLast week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
View 5 Repliestruck runs good just has po125 code
View 1 RepliesLooking for some experience/recommendations for the "what to do" and "in what order" for an error code. Recently the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light came on and has stayed on for the last 2 weeks. It has don this before after a heavy rain but went off after a few days but not this time. I took it to Advance Auto who hooked it up to a Trouble Code Reader and got back "PO174- Bank 2 system to lean". From what I've read from the Haynes book and other forum postings this is either a O2 sensor issue or a intake manifold gasket issue? Does this sound right? Next is how to go about addressing this issue in a systematic manner so as not "fix" 10 things that don't need fixing and not running to mechanic and paying a buttload for something I can do myself for less.
View 1 RepliesMy truck was running fine the past few days minus a cylinder misfire and a lean code the misfire was due to a coil pack being out no big deal on that part but yesterday on 7/30/13 my temp gauge turned off my truck wouldn't go below 1k rpms and then the over heating light came on. i drove the one mile home and turned it off an hour later i went back out to my truck to get to work and it refused to start.
I decided to just hold my foot down on the gas and crank it and it eventually started drove it to work with the same symptoms. now today its doing the same thing except now the truck is broke down in the parking lot at my job the engine is flooding cause i can smell it last night i changed the thermostat. I can get so that i can get my truck up in running its a 2002 f150 5.4L 4x4....
I have a 2002 f150 4.2 code p0340, ran rough, replaced cam sensor. drove after replacing and it runs fine now, code and service engine light comes on after restarting. from what i have read could this be a wiring problem?
View 4 RepliesSo the past few weeks my truck has been sputtering a lot. It seems to do it more so in low RPMS but when I lay on the throttle I didn't really notice it. I haven't had time to look into the issue but yesterday the issue got drastically worse and the CEL finally came on. Registered P0174 as well as a number of other codes including misfires on 7 of the 8 cylinders.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter. Spark plugs are only a few months old. I didnt think it would make sense for all of the coil packs to go out at once so I was thinking either a fuel issue or vacuum leak. Why would it only spit out P0174 (Banks 2) and not show P0171 (Banks 1) along with it? Fuel pump? Vacuum leak? Where should I start? 2002 F150 5.4L...
Looking to see how to repair my blinking light. Code reads a 27, most what I've read says it's a PAD light, which this truck does not have. It has been in an accident, both airbags deployed. Since then both seat belts & bags have been replaced, nothing else.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
View 3 RepliesI have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
2003 F-150 Supercrew w/4.6 V-8, 2-wheel drive, 219,000 miles and very well maintained. I'm getting an intermittent overheat condition that I can't figure out. Coolant level is good and I just replaced the thermostat. My OBDII app showed it running at a constant 207 degrees (195 thermostat) after the thermostat. Appears to have good pressure at the cap. It ran great for 30 minutes at idle and then did fine for a five mile test drive.
The next day in the morning it overheated within 3 miles of the house (heat was on) and you could smell it. Pulled over and let it sit for 20 minutes and started back up and it stayed constant at 207 all the way to work (11 miles). It sat at work for about 7 hours and ran great all the way home (without heat, with heat, with air cond). Then this morning it did it again, overheating about 3 miles from home. This time I pulled over and shut it off for about three minutes. Turned the key on without starting and the temp was already dropping again. So I started it up and it continued to drop down so I drove to work with no more issues. This afternoon again went home and it never overheated.
I'm expecting it to overheat again in the morning. I'm gonna go live on the OBDII for temps during the drive tomorrow.
Got F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
View 5 RepliesI have a '03 f 150 screw 4x4 with 5.4. I had to replace the heater core in the truck and I could hear air going through before the replacement. Now I can still hear it, have tried to burp the system a few times, even jacked up drivers side front on an incline to get reservoir higher. Ended up replacing the hose with the flow restrictor and that worked or so it seemed. The noise is back and I am lost on what to do next. I tested the head gasket and that came back negative also. What to do next or possibly what the issue is?
View 13 RepliesMy temperature and compass display just died on me, I don't have an owners manual with the truck so I don't know if it's a fuse I need to replace or what I need to do to get it working again.
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