Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Idle Started To Flux With AC On And Started To Spray Coolant Mix Through Vents
Apr 2, 2012
I have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6l triton v8.... I started over heating yesterday. Got home, let it cool down and found Oil in Coolant. No coolant in oil or transmission fluid. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6 Triton V8.... My truck started over heating again after replacing the Thermostat and Water Pump later this summer.... Well I checked Coolant and I have Oil in the Coolant. I see Nothing wrong with the Tranny Fluid and see nothing wrong with the Oil.... What could be the problem??????
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My 2000 F150 started leaking from a small pin hole in the coolant bypass pipe that is located on the top / front of the intake manifold, it is the pipe that flows toward the heater core. I decided to remove it without pulling the intake "being lazy". I almost had it and it snapped, while trying to retrieve the piece that was still in the hole It broke and part fell into the intake, I assume into the head in one of the coolant ports. I have removed the intake and still cant seem to see it or retrieve it. I have tried a shop vac, and a magnet wand, still nothing. While pulling a vacuum I noticed that I had flow / suctions from all my cooling ports on both heads, the line from the heater core, and even my top radiator hose.
So I guess my question is, If I cant get this out and it fell into one of the water jackets in my block will it hurt anything??? I know rust and other things end up in there anyway. I still haven't given up on removing, I am really in need of answers,, in case I cant remove it. I do know the flow of coolant is up through the pipe I was trying to replace, and either through the heater core (hose), thermostat, or maybe the bypass back to pump.
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I have a 2001 F150 5.4 triton. It recently started leaking coolant so i stopped driving it until i could get it to the shop. The day i took it to the shop, i stopped 3 times and checked the coolant level and i kept it full while driving it to the shop. The mechanic that was fixing it kept putting it off and had an excuse every day why the truck wasn't ready yet. It stayed in the shop almost a month for him to put a new intake on the truck. The truck ran fine on the way to the shop. I finally got tired of excuses and delays so i went to the shop and asked him if it was ready. He told me now the motor is rurnt and water is getting in the oil.
I checked the oil before and after i got there and the oil had no water in it. He cranked it up and the motor had a loud rattle in it. He wants to rebuild it. I want everybody's honest opinion about this deal. Do yall think the motor just burnt up or do y'all think he could of screwed the engine up on purpose to make more money because i always pay on time? Like i said, the truck had 200,000 miles on the motor but i never once had a lick of engine probs. I just think he could have accidentally or purposefully messed the engine up.
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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I've been having this problem since I've gotten the truck about year ago. it has very high long-term fuel trims and it seems no matter what I do I cannot get them to go down my fuel trims at idle are 39 Bank1 and 33 bank2 they go down to around 12>7 while driving what could this mean. And even weirder occasionally I get Bank 1 or bank 2 too lean codes at idle when cold starting???? 1997 Ford F150 4.6 ......
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Truck is a 02' F350 xlt crew cab, 7.3l, 4x4, 4R100, manual transfer case, 125,000 miles.
So me and the family were pulling out of the driveway tonight and electrical smoke starts blowing out the vents. My wife had just plugged a cheap USB charger into the auxiliary outlet above the cup holders for only 30 seconds. I immediately pulled back into the driveway, yanked the charger out, and found it had melted a hole in the side of it. No smoke had come from the charger or the outlet. The outlet looked fine and wasn't hot to the touch. I pulled the dash off real fast and started grabbing wires, feeling for anything that was hot or melting. I couldn't find anything.
I pulled the cover off under the steering wheel and couldn't find anything. I never turned the truck off while I was looking. After a few minutes, I noticed that the cover over the fuse panel was warm. Pulled the cover off and felt every fuse end and they were all cool to the touch. The relays in the middle were all pretty warm(almost hot to where I couldn't touch them). I was still faintly smelling the burnt smell and I couldn't tell if it was just stuck in my nose. I disconnected the batteries and we had to switch cars(heading to a bbq).
So I just got home and I'm going to start looking for any obvious signs first. What could be going on at the panel? So far, everything is still working. I haven't found any blown fuses.
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About mid-October I noticed when it as real cold out and I had the heat running whenever I would come to a stop I noticed there is very little to no heat coming from the vents, despite the engine being warm and running at operating temps. At the time I was working for a shop and I asked one of the mechanics what the problem was. He said that it was the radiator not having enough coolant.
Turns out when we pulled the cap the coolant res, was just about bone dry. So we added in about a gallon or so of coolant with the truck running and sure enough at idle the heat was back.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and when I am sitting at idle again same thing happens. So somehow the engine is losing coolant. Its not ending up in the oil (no white on the dipstick) and there is not a coolant leak. As it sits there is 255,300 miles on the truck now. 1999 5.4L F150....
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Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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The other day I was driving down the freeway... My F150's heart started knocking... I am thinking of rebuilding it or I was thinking if I can find a good priced lightning 5.4 going with a swap.. If I did go with a swap what all would I need from the donor truck? I am guessing a rebuild would cost me around $2000.. Since I don't have the know how or the place to tempt it on my own.
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I have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
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My 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
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1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
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I just got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4. Speedometer started cutting in and out. Just the speedo needle cuts in and is accurate for a long while then jumps up 10mph then goes back to accurate speed then cuts out and needle goes to zero for a bit then comes back on to accurate speed.
Just the speedo needle is the problem the trip meter and odometer and all other gauges on the cluster works just fine. Do I need a new cluster? Wouldn't be a speed sensor? Speed sensor would just cut off and would affect the odometer too wouldn't it?
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I'm usually over in the EX forum but today was working on my brothers 1998 F150 - V8 4.6L. Had the EGR code P0401 and due to FTE I found the problem took the throttle body off and found it was definitely plugged. One of the bolts was really loose and came off way to easily. Didn't realize until cleaning why... Now I drilled 8 studs out of my aluminum EX heads but this one has me pondering how I'm going to clamp this thing down and center a bit..
1st pic - ports WOW - guessing this was the problem ...
2nd pic - bigger issue ...
3rd pic - the ports cleaned up ...
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My 4.2 liter F150 suddenly started missing under load. A little background: It is a late 2003 and has 75k miles. It has been in my family since new, and I have had it for the last 4 years. This truck is as stock as they come, and has been well maintained.
On my way to work yesterday, it began missing. Not bad at first, but got worse. It misses while under load and under acceleration. The "check engine light" never came on. I have not put fuel in in several days, and it ran fine until now, so I doubt it is bad fuel. I started the engine after dark and looked for arcing. None visible, and I even sprayed the wires with a mist of water. I pulled the plugs and they all look normal. The gaps were all way too large, so I regapped the plugs to .054". I pulled the coil pack and it checks within range with my VOM. Can the coil pack be the problem even though it checks out on the bench? Can the large plug gaps have contributed to a coil pack failure?
Where to start. I HATE just throwing parts at this thing, and I don't like wasting money... If I let one of the auto parts stores run a scan, will it show a code even though I have no check engine light? I used to think of myself as a pretty good diagnostician, but then again, when I used to spend a lot of time under the hood, those cars had points, condensers and carburetors...
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I have a 2001 f150 7700 edition. The truck has 118,000 miles and i've owned it for the past three years, the trucks great and really reliable. I drive the truck every day 50 miles to my college and about two weeks ago my truck started shaking . I had just got off the highway and made it to a stop sign. I then took off and when I hit about 30 miles an hour the truck started shaking but when I hit 40 it stopped.
I said whatever and ignored it. now it does it pretty much anytime I go past 30 miles in hour. My tranny shifts good. I checked the fluid and it was normal. smelt it and it didn't smell burnt or anything still pretty red. Some days its worse then others. Also, no engine lights, tranny lights, no obvious lose parts, tires are good. It only shakes when I give it gas. I let off the gas at 80mph and it doesn't shake at all. Which is why I'm confused.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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