Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Died While Idling - Misfires When Started
Jun 23, 2016
My 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
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It has 100k on the clock. I bought it about 2 years ago and only put about 500 miles on it. It is only used as a farm truck. Historically it would periodically die at idle in park. Would always start up immediately and run fine. Plenty of power.
Today the truck started up and idled a few seconds and started idling rough. It died and would restart but has zero power. Put it in gear and it would die. Did this a few times now can't even get it started.
I checked all fuses. I checked the dist cap and rotor. Don't look the best but don't think this is the problem. I get the same result on both front and rear tanks. From what I have read sounds like a fuel pump or regulator. Where is the regulator located?
1997 F450 superduty 7.5 gas ...
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I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
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I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
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I have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
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so i was driving along & my 2000 f250 7.3 started to chug then died. I pulled over & it started right back up. I did some running around & was on my way home & it did it again only this time it would barely idle (same chugging). It died again & now it wont start. Turns over strong.....
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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Went out to the garage to move the car ('03 GLS V6)...cranked over, almost started then died. When i tried to start again, the engine seems to crank over too easily...like NO COMPRESSION, and it is puffing smoke out the tailpipe. Did the timing belt just let go? The car has 68K.
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I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
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Went to start my truck up about 3 hours ago to take my ol' lady to work. Turned it over and acted like the usual cold start. Well soon as I thought it was good to let the engine spin, it got to about 300-400 RPM and then died. So I shut the vent off and turned my head lights off (turned them on soon as I thought it was good), spun the engine again and when it hesitated once again I gave it some gas like you would on a carb (not pumping just gave it half throttle or so) brought up the engine to about 3K and it ran just fine.
I'm not sure if its the fuel filter (when the last time my dad even bothered to change it since he has done most of the work on it in the time we've had it) or if the fuel pump is going out for the 3rd time in the last 10 years. The last time the fuel pump went it was a bad Walker fuel pump. It was promptly replaced with a Bosch and has been going strong for the last 8 years or so.
If it is the fuel pump, my guess is either my dad is going to junk it or fix it. With it getting close to 260K miles its becoming warn out and showing its age. Been pretty dependable and will do just about anything you ask and it'll do it even if it takes a long time to get going.
The fuel lines are pretty rusty so if its the filter chances are we'll have to put in a new section of fuel line in. Its probably running close to 135K miles on it since it was last done. I've only started doing maintenance on it the last 6 years or so for the most part.
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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My niece has a 1999 F150 with a 4.6L engine. She was driving it down the road and it died and would not start. She called her husband, he went where she was, and when he got there, it started. She drove it home, and the next day, same thing. Died going down the road, no start, let it sit overnight, cranked like a new truck. Now it has died and will not start at all. They replaced the fuel pump. Nothing. When you turn on the key, the fuel pump runs continuously. If you pour fuel in the air filter, it will start. They checked all the fuses, nothing blown. When they try to hook it up to an OBD scanner, it does not work. No codes, nothing, it won;t pick it up.
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Here's what I have : 2003 F150xlt V6. about 65K miles.
Here's what happened : Drove it to the hardware store to pick up some stuff. Stopped in front of the garage. No abnormal indications during that trip at all. Decided to back to the garage and when I started it, it "ran" very rough and died in about 5 secs. Started again and chugged for about 2 or 3 secs. Tried a third time and would not run.
Here's what I've got : No CEL. all gauges indicate correctly. No anti theft blink. more than a 1/4 tank of fuel. in south central PA about at 35 degree day. parked level.
What I've checked : Wife turned the key on, I hear the fuel pump run a couple seconds with my ear in the rear wheel well. truck turns over fine. no start. turn the key off, about a two second buzz from the idle air control valve. when the key is turned on with my finger on the fuel pump relay, I feel it shift. I have pulled it and looked for corrosion. no problem. checked applicable fuses (visually).
I have tried to start with the IAC and MAF disconnected individually. tried to start it with a different key.
I have not : Banged on the tank to free up the pump. (I don't suspect it at this point)
I have not checked to see if there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Where is that schrader valve? I miss my books.
I have not verified that I have spark. What's the easiest way?
I have not modified my air intake in any way.
I'm headed out to a parts store tonight or walmart to get another scanner. I think my best clue here is the buzzing IAC. What's that mean?
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My temperature and compass display just died on me, I don't have an owners manual with the truck so I don't know if it's a fuse I need to replace or what I need to do to get it working again.
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I have a F150 2001 6cyl. Other day was doing 75 on freeway and lost all power. I replaced fuel filter, and pump is humming good (was replaced 4 years ago) checked the Inertia Switch and checked all relays, but truck still wont fire. I checked spark first and that's good.
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My 1997 ford f150 4.6 triton runs hot after 1 minute of idling. I changed the two coolant sensors, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. I also went to have a diagnostic done at two different places and nether one could get a reading....
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My 1997 f150 5.4 has started an idle issue. The truck when started will idle around1200 rpm and not settle down After driving a bit it will drop down around 800 and idle rough and sounds like it has a plug fouled. As soon as you give it gas it clears up and sounds fine, then drops down an idles rough.
Checked for vacuum leaks but don't see any. pulled the MAP sensor and cleaned it, but did not change.
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Yesterday had my truck 1999 ford f150 v8 4x4 it was just sitting there idling fine then it all of sudden sounded like it was about to stall then began idling fine again. It has some hesitation on take off and when going about 40 mph
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I recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
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