Went out to the garage to move the car ('03 GLS V6)...cranked over, almost started then died. When i tried to start again, the engine seems to crank over too easily...like NO COMPRESSION, and it is puffing smoke out the tailpipe. Did the timing belt just let go? The car has 68K.
View 4 RepliesThis morning I got to the bottom of my driveway and realized I forgot my tea. Turned off the engine and walked up to the house for the tea. When I turned over the engine it didn't start but cranked. Sputtered on the second attempt and died. Started on the third attempt, sputtered and then smoothed out and all was normal. What the heck goes on here? This happens to varying degrees maybe 6 or 7 times a year.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
My truck ran and drove then I changed my Steering Gearbox. After all that, I went to go start it, the trucked cranked and the batteries died. Hooked up the charger then and nothing, No start no crank. F250 2006 diesel 6.0 ...
View 14 RepliesMy 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
View 9 RepliesFirst, it's not a sticky IAC. I already experience that in cold weather and compensate simply with the gas pedal until engine warms up. However this coughing, sputtering, backfiring, misfiring problem is very severe. When it is in this state, the engine will lose rpm and stall. No way to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running.
It happens most often when you restart the engine after having stopped somewhere for 10-30 minutes. It happens less often during a cold start in the morning. When it does this, I remove the key, and try again. Usually in 3-10 tries, the engine runs properly. Once running properly, there is never an occurrence of this.
However, today only, first cold start, it cranked and would not fire at all. Repeatedly. Jiggled the key and maybe they made it start. Ignition switch? If Neutral Switch, it should not have cranked. Perhaps my intermittent problem is worsening.
Wet weather seems to aggravate it.
So I was wondering, what my problem might be. I went to go start my car after work 3 days ago and it cranked half way started and shut down. The things that I have checked are fuses both at the battery and in the side panel, fuel pump relay... It clicks when I turn the key, fuel pump.. Its getting 12 volts when the key is in the on position. Now a buddy of mine had me roll down the driver window and arm the alarm then open the door from the inside and the alarm did not go off nor does the dome lights come on. And the the fuel pump does not prime. He told me its a food lever switch. It's not recognizing that the door is open and that it's linked with the fuel pump that's why it's not priming and it's not starting.
View 13 Repliesso i was driving along & my 2000 f250 7.3 started to chug then died. I pulled over & it started right back up. I did some running around & was on my way home & it did it again only this time it would barely idle (same chugging). It died again & now it wont start. Turns over strong.....
View 14 Replies2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
View 2 RepliesMy 2000 2.5 V6 TDI Passat has just died.. was doing 60-70 and went to change gear and the engine cut out, tried to restart and its just cranking over and over. Did have a message on the display and the glow plug light on when i was coasting something about management but didn't get the whole message, wasn't on for long.
The recovery guy reckons it might be the crank sensor.
The cambelt should have loads of miles and time left before it goes.
I'd like to sort this myself or at least be sure of what the problem is before i take it anywhere, so what to check for?
There's fuel in the filter and it turns over fine (it could be my paranoia but maybe cranking a little fast)
i just changed a CV joint to fix one problem yesterday, this is the last thing i need!
After a long hour working day, B6 could not start in company's parking lot. The temperature is not cold, the battery is not dead, has plenty gas in the tank. The starter cranked but couldn't start the engine. What should I try? Change the starter? if i need parts, I will grab from store and try to fix it in parking lot. if not, I have to tow it to dealer tomorrow.
View 13 Replies2003 F150 4.2L V-6. Cranked ok but no start, no check engine light. Plenty spark and could hear fuel pump running. Thought it might be out of fuel but gauge showed over 1/4 tank . Added ~2 Gals fuel anyway, started immediately- no check engine light, no codes set. Thought- bad gauge sending unit. Dropped tank and found plenty of fuel and sending unit checks good. New pump on order but what else could cause the problem?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
After the details below, the truck finally started & I let it idle over an hr. Then turned it off for the night. Just to check, immediately tried restarting. Turned over very fast. Started once almost immediately & ran for 1 - 2 sec, then died. After that it turned over fine, but no attempt to fire - just as it's done in the past.
2000 F150, 5.4 L gas. Couple weeks ago it didn't start. Cranked fine - no sign of starting. It did this once a couple mo before that - wife was shopping & didn't start at the store. By time I got there, it had started. Her "solution" was loosened / retightened the gas cap (no, don't know why).
Never found a problem - didn't do it again for months. Then it did. Figured a code scanner would show something relevant to starting problem. It didn't - as far as codes go.
Couple weeks ago, battery was NOT dead by any means, but slightly weak (hadn't driven for couple weeks). I charged the battery (< 1 yr old). Seemed to take charge OK - didn't take long. But, after charging, volts at the battery = 12.8v.
Is it possible that's too low for these trucks & cause starting problem? It turned over quite fast - still no sign of firing. Gas isn't old. New Autolite spark plugs. Clean air filter.
I decided then to use the "jump start" setting on my charger (2 weeks ago) - still didn't fire & made no difference in cranking RPMs. Jacked around that day a couple of hrs. Checked all fuses (inside & under hood).
Bought the scanner - needed one anyway. Actron 9580A. All it shows on codes is a problem ABS wheel sensor (C1230) and a non-MIL code:
P1000: "OBDII Monitor / Drive cycle test not complete."
Suggested fix: "drive vehicle until drive cycle test is complete."
I don't think that's keeping it from starting. No idea about the drive cycle test. The battery hasn't been disconnected OR dead since I replaced it. It's certainly been driven hundreds of miles since new battery. Right after reading the codes today, decided to try starting. Didn't turn over quickly - battery somewhat low after 2 weeks w/o driving.
Surprise - it started - though didn't turn over fast. I let it idle some, then started recording data w/ the scanner. Where a couple weeks ago w/ the engine turning over like mad, it wouldn't start or even fire.
Note: only real difference in today (when finally started) & 2 weeks ago, or the time several months earlier: today is much cooler - in the 60's - vs. 90's the times it didn't start.
So, right back at square one - no signs of what's keeping it from starting. Maybe need some instructions on using more advanced features of the scanner / recording live data (if it starts again).
1997 Ford F-150 4.2L V6... I got into my truck yesterday and went to turn it on. The motor cranked half way then quit. Now everyone time I attempt to turn it on all I hear is a click and nothing else. A friend of mine who is pretty good with cars took a look at it with me. He tested my starter with a volt meter and said everything seems fine. We proceeded and checked all fuses, non of which we found are blown.
We then focused on the starter solenoid. We were able to get the truck running by arcing the 2 lower big terminals. I purchased a new solenoid thinking that was the problem, however replacing it solved nothing. Same problem is still present.
I have now arc the terminals to get the truck started 2-3 times in order to get to a shop. They spent all day looking things over and are pointing the problem to a bad starter relay. (i thought the starter relay was actually the same thing as the starter solenoid) Anyways they told us they have looked over all the diagrams they have access to and cannot locate the location of the starter relay. (maybe becasue its the solenoid?..)
My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
The heater fan started whining a bit last week. First it was just in the corners but now it's queking slightly most of the time. How do I gain access to the fan and how hard is it to replace?
View 1 RepliesAfter a rotate and balance, car started shaking when I accelerated. It only shakes on acceleration. I thought I need and alignment so I had one. Didn't stop. I replaced all four tires, breaks, and rotors as well as the front axles. Still shaking when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesI have been recently working on a 2003 1.8T fwd Passat that I have owned since new. I recently changed the front rotors, pads and CV axles. At low speed everything is great. No vibrations or unusual harshness. Starting at about 35 mph a low frequency driveline noise starts from the driver side and starts to get drummed out by engine noise above 60 mph. The noise is not very noticeable from the passengers seat. Initially I suspected a tire, but I swapped tires front to back and the noise didn't change. I have tried loading and unloading the front tires in 45-50 mph s-turns and the noise doesn't change.( I was thinking wheel bearings). I put the car back up on stands and tried hand spinning the wheels. No unusual noise was present. I have not found any clearance issues where there might be something rubbing. I got the axles from Raxles and am at a loss. Could this be a wheel bearing or a bad CV joint? How can I tell?
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