After a rotate and balance, car started shaking when I accelerated. It only shakes on acceleration. I thought I need and alignment so I had one. Didn't stop. I replaced all four tires, breaks, and rotors as well as the front axles. Still shaking when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesI have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
View 8 RepliesI'm considering a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T with 135,000 miles that the owner is selling for $1,000.00 because it is "starts and runs but it's difficult get it accelerated and it's just running rough ". I haven't yet looked at the car or pulled the codes, but before I do, is there a common point of failure on these cars that leads to the symptoms described?
If it is something such as a crankshaft position sensor, then I could potentially have a good car for a lot less than the book value. If it's something such as the timing having jumped a tooth, then that's probably not something that I want to mess with.
I wanted to move my car to the other side of the street just now and when started the engine up, motor started to vibrate/shake heavily and few seconds later "check engine" light popped up on my dash. Turned the car of right after that, restarted it again and motor seems to be working fine now but the light is still there. Car was parked for the last two days and it was around 22 degrees outside.
I'm going to schedule an appointment with the dealership for tomorrow first thing in the morning just trying to find out if i can drive it to the dealer or call VW assistance and get it towed to the dealer. Like i said car seems to be driving normally now as i drove it anyway for about two minutes, it's just that light that's ON at all times now (not blinking)
A couple months ago my VW Passat started locking itself and sounding the horn spontaneously, and now it is rolling down the windows randomly as well. My key isn't in the ignition when this happens. I got locked out once which was annoying, but now the windows rolling down make it a security issue and I really don't want the windows down in a parking lot during the next snowstorm. The heater quit working last week, too.
The car is only 2 years old and the dealership said they can fix the heater but they aren't sure what would be wrong with the spontaneous horn/window/locking problems.
I have a 2001 VW Passat with only 75K miles. The manual seat adjustment started working sluggishly, so I took to my mechanic. I was told that the mounting is very thin sheet metal and cracked. They welded it up and it is somewhat better, but not nearly as good as new. Can't imagine that my problem is unique. Still a safety issue here - should VW have a recall?
View 1 RepliesMy engine started shuddering rather considerably a few days ago, seems to be misfiring. Happens both while idling and accelerating. Thought it could be a bad spark plug, and was prepared to replace them. Which is doable, but not easy, considering they're not very accessible with this particular engine. But when I lifted the plastic cover off the engine to take a look, I noticed this tube (circled in picture) had been worn away considerably in one spot. In fact, it's barely attached.
Now I'm no expert, but I've read that a leaking or disconnected vacuum hose can cause exactly the type of issue I'm experiencing. I'm wondering if the object pictured is in fact a vacuum tube. Might that be the issue? If so, how easy would it be to repair it myself? I'm not very experienced with making my own repairs, but I'm good with a set of tools, as long as I have instructions.
2005 Subaru Outback XT 2.5 ... We were driving yesterday and the car started making a whirring noise as I accelerated. No noise wen not pushing on gas. Then, the noise mostly went away. Then we heard a rattling noise. Sounded like it was near the front passenger tire. After about another 10 minutes, the check engine light went on and the cruise control was disabled. On our way home (after we stopped to ski), the rattling wasn't so loud, car seemed to be driving fine, but CEL is still on. deas what this might be? Is it safe to drive it about 15 miles to the closest AutoZone to get the code? Or straight to an independent shop?
View 19 Replies I have a 2001 f150 7700 edition. The truck has 118,000 miles and i've owned it for the past three years, the trucks great and really reliable. I drive the truck every day 50 miles to my college and about two weeks ago my truck started shaking . I had just got off the highway and made it to a stop sign. I then took off and when I hit about 30 miles an hour the truck started shaking but when I hit 40 it stopped.
I said whatever and ignored it. now it does it pretty much anytime I go past 30 miles in hour. My tranny shifts good. I checked the fluid and it was normal. smelt it and it didn't smell burnt or anything still pretty red. Some days its worse then others. Also, no engine lights, tranny lights, no obvious lose parts, tires are good. It only shakes when I give it gas. I let off the gas at 80mph and it doesn't shake at all. Which is why I'm confused.
2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
View 14 RepliesMy '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
I had to replace the battery on my 2003 Passat (without temporary power thru the lighter) and shortly afterward the check engine light came on. I got a scan tool that indicated three fault codes shown below. Are these likely the result of the battery change and I can reset the faults or should I take the car into a shop to have them checked out.
View 7 RepliesI drive a 99 1.8t Passat with 90,xxx miles. Yesterday I felt the car hesitate/jerk a little when it's accelerated to 35-40 miles per hour. I've had this problem in my past and it was a cylinder misfire. I would bring it to the repair shop.
My question is: Can my car last about 1.5 weeks? My work is 20 mins away. I can definitely avoid the freeway.
I have a 1.8 T, 2003 vw passat with 186,000 miles on it. I've had this problem for 3 years and nobody can figure it out. If I start the car and begin driving immediately I have no brakes. However, if I let the car warm up for about 2-3 minutes (maybe less) everything is fine. I have replaced the brake booster.
View 14 RepliesEven though I had head gasket done/timing belt/water pump & other stuff, 3 months, ago, I'm having to check the coolant level weekly & adding about 1 cup of water to pink coolant every 8 - 9 days. The mechanic who did the work tells me that adding that "little" water in "that amount of time is nothing unusual". I know of no one else who keeps a coolant log. I'm obsessed with this problem. I've spent so much on differing repair to this car - it's as if I bought a lemon.Car has 104K mi. Have coolant problem with no coolant winding up on the ground?
VW Passat station wag. 2003 1.8 L Turbo 4 cylinder...
Yesterday on my way to work I accelerated after a stoplight and heard a pop, now my car sounds like a motorcycle going down the road. It sounds like its coming from the engine bay, I have time to get it fixed, but I need to know exactly whats wrong and roughly how much its gonna cost before I go get ripped off by a local mechanic. The car has 98000 miles on it, I honestly doubt its still under warranty.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 volkswagen passat 2.0 L...115000 miles. Yesterday I was entering the freeway and I accelerated the car a bit when I started hearing this noise on the engine. I will try my best and describe the noise as a knocking of metal on metal. I thought maybe is the oil and changed it.
Now today I was going up the hill and accelerated the car when the noise appeared again, it happened again a little bit later, again going up a hill. There is no noise when I drive normally or I accelerate and I am not going up a hill.
I own a 2003 Volkswagen Passat Wagon 2.8L SFI DOHC 6cyl. I have a code P3081 I have replaced the temp sensor and the reserve coolant tank I am going for the thermostat next. I cannot get rid of this code. Also since the code started when my wife drives short distances and turns off the car it won't start again for about 15 min unless it is jumped started. To top it all off she came home yesterday and said she turned on the a/c and it worked for about 10 min and then made a lot of noise and quit working.
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