Passat - Volkswagen :: 2003 - CEL Came On After Battery Replacement
Nov 9, 2013
I had to replace the battery on my 2003 Passat (without temporary power thru the lighter) and shortly afterward the check engine light came on. I got a scan tool that indicated three fault codes shown below. Are these likely the result of the battery change and I can reset the faults or should I take the car into a shop to have them checked out.
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So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
[URL] .....
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I'd like to know how to replace the battery in the key fob for my 2002 Passat Wagon. I looked in the manual but I could not find it and it says that the dealer should do it. I am aware that sometimes the fob may need to be re-programmed but my wife's key works perfectly so I will assume that the battery has gone out. The key works just fine when used manually.Also, what kind of battery does it take??
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I had to swap in a new battery the other day, and I noticed that the positive terminal connector is broken. I don't really want to pay >$100 for a new cable right now, so any success story about splicing in just a new terminal ring or using one of the generic battery cables?
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After a rotate and balance, car started shaking when I accelerated. It only shakes on acceleration. I thought I need and alignment so I had one. Didn't stop. I replaced all four tires, breaks, and rotors as well as the front axles. Still shaking when accelerating.
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I have a 1.8 T, 2003 vw passat with 186,000 miles on it. I've had this problem for 3 years and nobody can figure it out. If I start the car and begin driving immediately I have no brakes. However, if I let the car warm up for about 2-3 minutes (maybe less) everything is fine. I have replaced the brake booster.
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Even though I had head gasket done/timing belt/water pump & other stuff, 3 months, ago, I'm having to check the coolant level weekly & adding about 1 cup of water to pink coolant every 8 - 9 days. The mechanic who did the work tells me that adding that "little" water in "that amount of time is nothing unusual". I know of no one else who keeps a coolant log. I'm obsessed with this problem. I've spent so much on differing repair to this car - it's as if I bought a lemon.Car has 104K mi. Have coolant problem with no coolant winding up on the ground?
VW Passat station wag. 2003 1.8 L Turbo 4 cylinder...
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I own a 2003 Volkswagen Passat Wagon 2.8L SFI DOHC 6cyl. I have a code P3081 I have replaced the temp sensor and the reserve coolant tank I am going for the thermostat next. I cannot get rid of this code. Also since the code started when my wife drives short distances and turns off the car it won't start again for about 15 min unless it is jumped started. To top it all off she came home yesterday and said she turned on the a/c and it worked for about 10 min and then made a lot of noise and quit working.
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The hood release strap broke on my 2003 VW Passat. It fully came out from under the hood while the hood was closed. I had the car at a shop the day before, picked-up the car at night and found the part dangling above the grill the next morning (the work included work under the hood so they were the last ones to open the hood). Of course the shop knows nothing about it and said they've never heard of this happening before. The part broke at the end under the hood that connects to the release point and cannot be repaired (two eyelets broke on this plastic part). I found the part can be bought on-line for about $11 plus shipping. Obviously the first step is I have to somehow get a tool under the hood to release the hood where the strap made the release in the past. The question is how do I do that?
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The Phaeton is a 2003 6.0 W12 model. The car used to be a demo car and has currently around 80.000 km. It is not equipped with a keyless entry system. I recently put an Xcarlink device to connect my iPod. All the rest is a standard equipment (basically all available at that moment).
The problem with the car started when I could not open from the remote key. I tried to open the driver door, but the never used lock jammed. The only option was opening the trunk using the key. I had to lift the lid using some force against the dumpers, but it worked.
As the both batteries on the car were original 2003 (so went through the showroom period as well) I new that they cause the problem.
I bought two new batteries and replaced them. I proceeded according to the service manual so disconnected the right battery -, right +, left -, left +. I am pretty convinced that I did not blow the battery isolator. The left battery applied is 95Ah in place of 92 before. It has the max current of 800 A in place of 850 A. The right battery is exactly the same specification as before. After testing the old batteries the left one showed current of 2.8V so it was definitely broken. The right one seemed to be OK (12.58V)
After replacing the batteries I could open the car and all the entertainment systems and electronics inside would work except for:
1) The suspension lifting and tire pressure warning lights are on.
2) I cannot start the engine - it does not crank at all even using the emergency mode - two times start and back to accessories mode
3) The trunk lid does not close automatically.
I am getting the car towed to the local VW dealer tomorrow, but I am afraid they will see the Phaeton for the first time in their lives (small Dutch dealer nearby Utrecht), so I am a bit afraid of the car.
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I recently had a 4-wheel alignment performed on my 2003 VW Passat. A couple days after the procedure I noticed my steering wheel was stiff and a whirring noise when I turned the wheel. Come to find out my power steering fluid is now leaking. Is this just a coincidence, or could the garage have broken something. It was not leaking or making any noises prior to the alignment.
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We have a 2003 VW Passat 1.8, front wheel drive. The check engine light is on. The code is p0778. When we start the car the gears light display lights up in red for all gears . We put the car in reverse, back out the garage and when we stop, we get a bump. And we shift to drive the car moves slowly with some hesitation.
Sometimes after the car runs for 10 minutes, then turned of for a few second then started up again, the problem goes away. Before this problem started, we would start the car in the mornings, and put in "R" , and only the reverse gear would light up. (which is the way it is suppose to work).
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We recently had the timing belt replaced in our 2003 Volkswagen Passat (1.8T). Now it shakes and vibrates badly when we put it in drive and idle. It ran smoothly before we had the belt replaced. The mechanic hasn't found a solution yet.
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Got new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently.
Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Using bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found?
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I have a 2003 Passat Wagon, V6, with a little over 80,000 miles that has developed a problem that I have not been able to get fixed: after the engine has warmed up, when driving at under 2000 rpm, the car jerks when light throttle is applied. I could also describe it as a thump or shudder. There is a small blip in the tachometer when it jerks. If I give it enough gas to cause the transmission to shift up, it does not jerk, nor does it do it over 2000 rpm. It recently had it's 80,000 mile service and runs very strong and smoothly when given enough gas.
My dealer couldn't figure what was wrong, and after they consulted with VW decided that I must have put in some bad gas. The problem was to have gone away after 5 or 6 tanks of good gas. After that didn't solve the problem, I went to an independent repair shop. They told me that it couldn't be misfire because there were no codes registered. Their theory is that it is problem with the transmission, whereby with light throttle the transmission is told to shift but then slips right back down, thus the jerkiness. They couldn't offer a solution, however. What to do about it?
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Passat, and I'm having some trouble with it. When I turn the steering wheel, there is a groaning sound both to the left and right. the other problem is when I'm accelerating slowly up an incline and turning the steering wheel, there a type of clicking sound I hear and feel on my accelerator. By the way, it's a V6 engine, Front wheel drive.
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I have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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The car was started and moved to its current location to have the alternator replaced.
After replacement the car will not start, turn the key and nothing.
When ignition is turned on everything on dash lights up like it should.
There are no trouble codes currently present on the vehicle except a flapper valve in the econ
The car did have the typical weak battery low voltage sporadic etc from the dead alternator causing the the vehicle to drain the battery.
A known good battery was jumped to the battery in vehicle. The vehicle battery reads just under 12 volts with VAD mobile. When known good battery is hooked up it is at 12 plus volts.
All fuses have been pulled and visually inspected to be good.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8t(B5.5) and I need to change my engine coolant temperature sensor. I have search and found conflicting answers on the forums as far as it location and description. From what I can see it is located near the bottom right hand corner of the radiator(Driver Side). I have removed the sensor and I did see some antifreeze spill out. I examined the sensor and it is blue in color with a rounded top. I called my local auto zone and received a replacement part but it is green and looks a little different.
I understand that the blue one that I removed is no longer produced. My question is is this the right sensor and the right location? All the write ups I can find say that it is located in the back of the engine yet I cannot find one there. Also when I replaced the blue senor with the green one the fan on my car is spinning at high speed(the AC fan) and will not idle. I am wondering if the new sensor is faulty/ incorrect or if i simply replaced the wrong sensor.
Here is a link to the replacement part I used : [URL] .....
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I need to replace the low beam headlight on the drivers side. Any quick way to do this, and how much and what type is the bulb?
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