Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Won't Start After Alternator Replacement?
Nov 20, 2012
The car was started and moved to its current location to have the alternator replaced.
After replacement the car will not start, turn the key and nothing.
When ignition is turned on everything on dash lights up like it should.
There are no trouble codes currently present on the vehicle except a flapper valve in the econ
The car did have the typical weak battery low voltage sporadic etc from the dead alternator causing the the vehicle to drain the battery.
A known good battery was jumped to the battery in vehicle. The vehicle battery reads just under 12 volts with VAD mobile. When known good battery is hooked up it is at 12 plus volts.
All fuses have been pulled and visually inspected to be good.
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I own a 2002 Jetta 1.8T now here is my story.
A week ago whiles driving lost power when accelerating, EPC light illuminates so I turned on my hazard light and limped home since I was far away from home. As I limped home, all the lights on the dash went off. I got home, shut engine off, restarted the car but car wont accelerate.
I popped the hood and saw the dreaded melted fuse box on top of battery with charred alternator cable. I ordered the fuse box and alternator cable and prepared to replace them.
I realized that with the driver side door open with no key in ignition, I could hear a clicking sound with inside lights blinking. Didn't worry because I believed it had to do with the melted fuse box and charred alternator cable. I noticed that the clock was off too.
I replaced.the fuse box and alternator cable. My battery is just a year old so when I tried starting the car and it won't crank, I tried to jump start it but no sound. Car won't start. Dead silence,no click nothing.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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Replacing the alternator on my wifes 2003 v6 passat. Not a mechanic by any means but I have plenty of time and all the tools for the job.
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A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
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I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.
When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.
I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.
Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.
He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.
Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.
I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:
1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?
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So about a month or so ago i had my alternator replaced because my truck wouldnt start and had it checked and replaced well tonite it started rough dont know what to think what/where should i check first?
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I just put a heater core in a friends passat that was running just fine, drove it into the shop. I pulled the dash and replaced the heater core and put it all back together. Everything works, starter turns over and all but wont fire. I went over everything numerous times to find anything unplugged but all looks fine. Says something about an airbag fault when you turn on the key. Would this prevent startup? what can I do?
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I had to replace the battery on my 2003 Passat (without temporary power thru the lighter) and shortly afterward the check engine light came on. I got a scan tool that indicated three fault codes shown below. Are these likely the result of the battery change and I can reset the faults or should I take the car into a shop to have them checked out.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8t(B5.5) and I need to change my engine coolant temperature sensor. I have search and found conflicting answers on the forums as far as it location and description. From what I can see it is located near the bottom right hand corner of the radiator(Driver Side). I have removed the sensor and I did see some antifreeze spill out. I examined the sensor and it is blue in color with a rounded top. I called my local auto zone and received a replacement part but it is green and looks a little different.
I understand that the blue one that I removed is no longer produced. My question is is this the right sensor and the right location? All the write ups I can find say that it is located in the back of the engine yet I cannot find one there. Also when I replaced the blue senor with the green one the fan on my car is spinning at high speed(the AC fan) and will not idle. I am wondering if the new sensor is faulty/ incorrect or if i simply replaced the wrong sensor.
Here is a link to the replacement part I used : [URL] .....
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I need to replace the low beam headlight on the drivers side. Any quick way to do this, and how much and what type is the bulb?
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I recently broke the oil pan, my husband replaced it after about a month of waiting for new one to come. (Im afraid I didnt turn the car off in time and did something to the engine.) All was good after fixing it until after about a week of driving it i noticed some white smoke coming from tailpipe as i was accelerating to get on the highway. Drove it home and no smoke, drove it some more and NO smoke as getting on the highway! But then again a few days later it did it again!!! The car runs good no loss of fluids, no milky oil(not the head gasket) I would never know anything was wrong if I didnt have to get on the highway to go to town and see the smoke. I have been racking my brain on this computer trying to figure out what could be wrong? Someone followed me and said they smelled raw fuel from the exhaust smoke. But i dont know if its its an injector, I think its from breaking the oil pan??? But i dont know ???? Its a 2003 vw passat 1.8t 67,500 miles just bought the car so dont know much about the history. Seemed to be taken well care of so I dont know.
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I recently replaced a timing belt in a 2003 ALH TDI & since it will not start. When I took everything apart I found the belt extremely worn & the engine had actually slightly jumped timing. When I replaced the pulleys & belt & reset the timing to the way it would be from factory. When I tried to start the vehicle it turns over fine but will not catch. I double checked all the timing, fuel pump, everything - all okay. I can get it running with ether but will not start with diesel fuel. I also replaced the fuel filter, checked to make sure there was fuel at the injection pump but nothing works.
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The Phaeton is a 2003 6.0 W12 model. The car used to be a demo car and has currently around 80.000 km. It is not equipped with a keyless entry system. I recently put an Xcarlink device to connect my iPod. All the rest is a standard equipment (basically all available at that moment).
The problem with the car started when I could not open from the remote key. I tried to open the driver door, but the never used lock jammed. The only option was opening the trunk using the key. I had to lift the lid using some force against the dumpers, but it worked.
As the both batteries on the car were original 2003 (so went through the showroom period as well) I new that they cause the problem.
I bought two new batteries and replaced them. I proceeded according to the service manual so disconnected the right battery -, right +, left -, left +. I am pretty convinced that I did not blow the battery isolator. The left battery applied is 95Ah in place of 92 before. It has the max current of 800 A in place of 850 A. The right battery is exactly the same specification as before. After testing the old batteries the left one showed current of 2.8V so it was definitely broken. The right one seemed to be OK (12.58V)
After replacing the batteries I could open the car and all the entertainment systems and electronics inside would work except for:
1) The suspension lifting and tire pressure warning lights are on.
2) I cannot start the engine - it does not crank at all even using the emergency mode - two times start and back to accessories mode
3) The trunk lid does not close automatically.
I am getting the car towed to the local VW dealer tomorrow, but I am afraid they will see the Phaeton for the first time in their lives (small Dutch dealer nearby Utrecht), so I am a bit afraid of the car.
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Trying to change the stupid alternator in my 99 A6, which is the same engine/accessory layout as the B5 Passat.
And I didn't realize what I was in for. Is there any way to get to this puppy without dropping the entire front end? By looking at it (nobody stocks Audi,Bentley) it looks like the front end has to come apart all the way to the radiator support..........
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Happy owner of a TDI - SEL for just over a year. One week shy of my 40K service, the alternator failed. All repairs covered with my extended warranty. Tech said he hadn't seen another alternator go bad and certainly hadn't seen a 1 year old TDI with 40K miles! Any alternator issues? otherwise been quite happy with the car.
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Looking for Instructions and pictures...
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Well, the B5 continues to die when left overnight. Seems the Alternator is gone on this thing (my conception)
As soon as I give it a jump, it starts up right away. If I let it run for about 5-10 minutes and then try to restart it, it gives me no issues. If i come back the next morning it will be dead and will need another jump to get it started.
I am thinking that this is the Alternator. I don't have any warning lights that come on, such as "Alternator Worship". Car runs totally fine once its jumped. The battery is not even a year old.
Also, if it does turn out to be the Alternator, which one does my car take? 90amp or 120amp? The car is a 2000 GLX V6 Auto. What can I expect to have it replaced including labor??, or could this possibly be a DIY job? I'm trying to give it a chance before I throw it in neutral and push it off a cliff.
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I have a B5 Passat that came in with the alternator workshop light on. Upon a few tests i determined the alternator was bad. I removed the alternator and installed a remand one that was correct for the vehicle. amps and all. After getting it all back together i started it and the car ran fine. I drove it around and shut the car off. Customer took the vehicle and after 15 minutes the car was back for the alternator workshop message being on and battery light again.
I restarted the car and it was off. I restarted it again and it came back on. Replaced the Alternator again with another and took it for a more extensive drive. The lights stayed off this time. I parked the vehicle and shut it down. Waited a few moments and restarted it just to be safe, the lights had came back on again..... After testing it more I've come to find that when the lights are off the alternator is charging the vehicle as it should and when there on the vehicle is not charging. I don't know what it could be at this point but I am absolutely sure its not the alternator.... I honestly don't think this many are bad in a row.
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