Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 GTI - No Start After Car Died While Idling


May 24, 2014

I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.

A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.

First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.

Pertinent information:

- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.

- No other nasty dash indicators are on.

- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.

- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.

- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.

After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 V8 Will Not Start / Truck Started Idling Very Rough And Died

1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:

Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.

What the culprit may be?

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Driving home on the highway today, not boosting, just regular driving. Car was acting fine, then just shut off. Tried starting, and it would crank, but not actually start.

Got it towed home. Scanned. Two codes: 01314, Engine Control Module. And again, 01314, Engine Control Module. Tried clearing codes, and it says "comm. error". Im using the VAG Check scanner from ECStuning, has always worked fine.

Thought it could be fuel pump, but the fuel pump primes when I open the door. I did notice that the throttle body refuses to align when I put the key in the second position, when it always has before. Radio works, all presets work. Unplugged the battery for a half hour, replugged, nothing. I'm leaving it unplugged overnight to see if that does anything.

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Here's the full scan:

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56

[Code] .....

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Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.

The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.

Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.

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I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.

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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...

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I have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .

I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !

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[URL] .....

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If I go to start it in the morning, nothing. Wait until 10-11 or so and it'll run in one attempt. What's strange is that temperature does not seem to affect this issue. Some nights I will go out to drive after it has cooled down outside (70 degrees or so) and it will start no problem. Some mornings it's already 80 degrees and I still have no luck.

I have pulled the following DTCs, which keep reappearing after I clear them, making me believe this is an electrical issue:

P0261, P0267, P0270, P0264, (all 4 cylinder injector circuits low) P0445, P0037, P0418, P0010, and P0414.

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My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.

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I have a 2003 vw golf gti. and It will crank but it wont start. I recently replaced the fuel pump and the relay.

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here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:

While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.

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Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).

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