Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 GLS Started And Then Died Immediately
Aug 11, 2016
Previously, I have had no rough starts or other starting issues, and no issues with my battery, which is 4 years old. I left work and had some errands to run--started my car, drove about 1/2 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 1/4 mile. Started my car again, and drove about 2 miles and stopped at a gas station. Started my car again and drove 2.5 miles.
This time, my car started fine, and I began to take off (moving forward--no car in the space in front of me) and after about 5-10 feet my engine died. I haven't been able to start it since. The starter is turning well, but I don't hear anything firing, and giving it gas as I hold the key over does nothing.
Where should I start? I have a video of trying to start, I may try and upload to Dropbox and post. Car is a 2004 Jetta GLS with 247k, and I currently have no DTCs stored (checked using a generic OBDII scanner, not a Vag).
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I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
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Ok so I started car ran for about 15 min at idle but ran rough a few times then died now wont start. O yea I drove it on sunday and the speedometer and odometer stopped working also.
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What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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Preliminary information: the vehicle is a 2003 jetta (gli), My drivers door ajar switch is broken and the ccm recognizes it as closed at all times (open circuit), also I was hit in the rear at about 40mph by an f-250 a week after I bought the car and I repaired the damage myself (I am not a body tech). I replaced all electrical components in the trunk as they were all destroyed as well as the trunk lid which has never quite closed the same.
.Key Fob serves no function, (replaced the battery as troubleshooting.)
.If I lock the doors VIA drivers door, passenger door or by key in door, the doors will lock and then immediately unlock.
.It seems to think a door is open even though they are all closed and the overhead lights don't come on like they would if a door was open.
.The door ajar light was on when it first started and the light burnt out after less than an hour in (coincidence? or short? I don't know what circuit to start on).
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My 2005 vw GTI doesn't like to start in the cold. It will start and I can rev it just for a second before it turns off again. My ABS and ESP traction control lights are on and they only turn on when I have this problem. Normally when it does this I can let it sit for a couple of hours and it will start as if nothing was even wrong. I took it to the dealer to do a full diagnostic on it and the only thing they could find was a faulty instrument cluster and I don't think that is what is causing my car not to start.
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I'm going to preface this by saying I've already had the immobilizer problem and I know about the light on the dash of the car + key flashing when you try to start the car without the immobilizer chip in the key fob.
My car has been running completely fine, I go out to start it, it fires up then immediately dies. If I hit the throttle while it starts up it will rev up but still dies even if I hold the throttle all the way open. After doing some research I was pointed to crank position sensor. Bought a new one, didn't change anything.
The strange thing about it is ever once in a while I can get it to start up and then it will run for as long as I let it, so its obviously getting air, fuel, and spark. I have also disconnected the battery and left it for a few hours, didn't work either.
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I have Golf MK4 variant 1.6 77kw BCB 2005y
When i crank engine i hear it fire immediately for a fraction of a second, then it carries cranking empty few turns and then fires again.
Happens only on a first start after standing still few hours.
[URL] ....
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2003 Jetta TDI GLI , fuse number 32 (30 amp fuse) keeps blowing immediately after I replace it. I can't start my car because of it. I do have a shorting head light and the glow plug indicator flashes with the check engine light on. This doesn't happen all the time. When it does happen, sometimes the accelerator will not work and instead of idling at ~900 rpm it idles at ~1100 rpm. I usually just restart my car and then it works again. Not sure how these issues are related but I can't start my car because of this blowing fuse.
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I have an 04 gti 1.8t and last night it started over heating. I pulled over and checked the coolant and the oil but everything looked good. I let it cool down and drove it home. When I popped the hood there was a little steam coming from the coolant overflow tank but I saw no leaking. I decided to vent the pressure off the system and then I got a little drip on the passenger side close to where the inter cooler is. I can't pinpoint the leak though.
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On my way to work this morning check engine light came on, diagnosis came up with 2 codes p2181 cooling system and p1516 intake changeover. went to leave work car started then died after about 5 seconds then wouldn't start. as of right now I am thinking that it might be the coolant temp sensor? That's not letting it start? the past week it has been getting bad gas mileage and a low idle.
Mods done giac chip now set at stock setting
APR exhaust and intake
107,xxx miles
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2008 GX470..... Car died 3 times on the way...engine started missing a bit then completely died. First time n of Dalhart TX pulled off the road and restarted in a few minutes ran ok for about 30 miles died again. Restarted in a few minutes, filled up and drove 120 miles to Trinidad CO no problems....stopped at Toyota dealer in Trinidad, ran full diagnostics, said fuel mixture would run too high, car was fine now, maybe bad gas. Drove 150 mi no problem to Co Springs. Car died again climbing up to Breckenridge, pulled into gas station, shut down, filled up, restarted and no problems the last 100 miles into Breckenridge? Only commonality when the car died was that I was at half tank of gas. If fuel pump issue should full analysis have showed that?
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1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
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I was recently driving home when I made a left hand turn and the car died. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced 1,800 miles ago. It sounds like a timing issue to me. The last time I had timing issue it wouldn't run. This time it runs. Attached is a video of me starting it with the camera looking at the timing belt. The noise I heard made me shut it off. I did not want to cause more damage.
[URL] .....
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Driving home on the highway today, not boosting, just regular driving. Car was acting fine, then just shut off. Tried starting, and it would crank, but not actually start.
Got it towed home. Scanned. Two codes: 01314, Engine Control Module. And again, 01314, Engine Control Module. Tried clearing codes, and it says "comm. error". Im using the VAG Check scanner from ECStuning, has always worked fine.
Thought it could be fuel pump, but the fuel pump primes when I open the door. I did notice that the throttle body refuses to align when I put the key in the second position, when it always has before. Radio works, all presets work. Unplugged the battery for a half hour, replugged, nothing. I'm leaving it unplugged overnight to see if that does anything.
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
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My k03 blew up after 100k miles in a cloud of smoke and oil... Where is a good place to buy a k03 turbo for less than $900 or so?
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I was driving down the road when my car (02 GTI 12v VR6) suddenly died. I pulled off and tried to restart it. It sounded weird, kind of metallic like maybe the clutch went out. It seemed to be firing, but would not turn over so I stopped trying for fear of damaging something. I thought the timing chain may have come loose, however I didn't hear anything catastrophic like valves breaking so if that's the case then hopefully it only jumped a tooth or two. I scanned it and a bunch of codes came back. I did have the battery out for a while before scanning so I'm not sure if some of the Central Convenience codes are due to that or not.
Here's the full scan:
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S
Chassis Type: 1J - VW G/J/B Mk4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,16,15,17,19,22,35,46,56
[Code] .....
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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