Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AC Only Works When Car Is Idling
Aug 13, 2014
We have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L with 170000 miles. The AC had been getting weaker, but now it only works when the car is idling. Which seems really odd???
Started car, after being parked for a while, and the temp was 73F at the dash vent. I figured it would get colder going down the road, but it got up to 90F at the vent. Returned home and let the car idle for a while and the dash temp went down to 80F. Went for another drive and it immediately raised to 90F.
The compressor clutch was engaged and spinning, but the larger metal line at the firewall didn't seem very cold. The smaller line was warm as expected. I added some R134a, but no change at the lines or in the car. We have had issues with the blend flapper and replaced the broken plastic part. You can hear the flapper slap when you rotate the dial from hot to cool, so it seems like it's working.
Could it be the compressor? I think it was only generating 150psi on the high pressure side during idle, but it would go up to 200-225psi when I revved the motor.
Replaced the valve body solenoids, increased pressure to clutch packs 8 clicks, added pentosin, cleared engine light, and the tranny is working perfectly.
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I just recently got a 2001 1.8t jetta. It was leaking coolant and only one fan would come on. Ive fixed the coolant leak. Only the passenger side fan comes on, and the AC blows hot as well. Ive checked the fuses on the battery and they are good.
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03 Jetta 1.8T AC is giving me fits. When the compressor comes on the AC is nice and cold. Problem is that it isn't on very much. Today was a good example. No AC for about the first 30 min drive to get an oil change (local driving). Next 40 min highway drive, AC only got cold for the last 20 minutes and then started to warm up before I got to work. Drove to auto parts place at lunch, AC cold from start to finish. No AC all the way back to work.
So, this evening I started the car with the hood up and watched. Compressor wouldn't engage. Pushed the AC button a couple of times and clutch engages. Compressor stayed on for 7 minutes and ice cold air. Clutch then disengaged and immediately both fans went to high speed for about 5 minutes with warm air out the vents.
Fans cycled back to low speed and compressor clutch engaged again for about 2 minutes this time. Fans to high speed again for 3 minutes, then compressor engaged for only a minute. Each time the compressor shut down, both fans would go to high revs. The minute they would go to low speed, the compressor clutch would engage and I'd get nice cold air..
Just had the expansion valve replaced and r134a charged by and AC shop last week. I have had the on/off AC problem for months and then could not get the compressor to engage at all for about one month. Of course, just as I was getting to the shop, it started blowing cold air.
Not sure whether I'm looking at an electrical problem or what. Just seems odd that both fans suddenly speed up and slow down and the compressor engages only on low speed.
The only other odd thing I've noticed is that cold or hot, as soon as I turn the ignition on (engine off), one fan continually starts cycling on and off. It does that continuously. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they all look fine. No appreciable drop in RPMs when the compressor engages. Fan control module?
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It happened almost a week ago and had plenty of time to dry out. I heard that the keys will usually come back to life but unfortunately mine did not. Tried changing the battery too. No luck. The key still works in the door. It's an annoyance not being able to open the trunk or lock/open all doors remotely.
Are there any alternative ways to do this cheaper that I'm overlooking? There are wireless keys on ebay that can be bought. But is there a way to get them programmed other than going to the VW dealer and getting fleeced?
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Went to start my car today but couldn't move my steering wheel at all??
Ignition still works and i can turn my keys but not the wheel?
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It seems the drivers seat heater only works when turned all the way up. Could the switch be bad, or is there some kind of variable resistor that goes bad? Dunno where to start really.
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2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car
1- get in car, push in AC button
2- start car
3- feel cold air
4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)
If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.
When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.
This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...
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About 2 or so weeks ago, I picked up an .:R for a STEAL! I don't have all that much to complain about (because let's face it, it's an R32 ...) but I have noticed a few issues with it that I am hoping are related.
During one car ride I needed to charge my phone, but unfortunately the 12v port doesn't work (I checked all of the side panel fuses and even changed the whole jack, nothing). Another issue that I noticed, was that the passenger door lock intermittently works... sometimes it will work, and other times I have to unlock the door by opening it from the inside. On those freak occasions when it does work, than the driver's door lock won't work... That being irritating in itself, tonight I went to pop the hatch, and it wouldn't unlock! I had to put the key in to open it... that was the first time that I had encountered this issue...
My question is, could all of these issues be related somehow? I highly doubt that all of the lock modules are faulty.The PO did have a record about having the issue checked by the dealership, but they couldn't recreate it.
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I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
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Co-Worker's '03 Jetta TDI
Blower works intermittently. Sometimes all speeds will work. Sometimes only on high. Sometimes on all speeds but at a slower speed than normal. Sometimes it doesn't work on any speed.
Switch doesn't bind, blower motor doesn't make any unusual noises and I don't think it is the blower resistor. He did notice a strange odor coming from the vents the other day and, it appears that the foam on the blend door is starting to disintegrate.
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My gf's 04 gti 1.8t 5spd is having idling issues. Here's the rundown, at idle it sits at 800 rpm but when given a rev it then becomes erratic and fluctuates between 500-1100 rpm. When throttled again lightly it returns to normal 800 rpm idle. The car will try to stall a little bit. Now for the codes and lights. The lights are the traction control light and the check engine light. The codes are p0102 (MAF) and p2181 (coolant system performance). I have recently had a misfire which I took care of with 4 new coil packs. I kept the 3 good ones I took out. I have to change the plugs still but don't think it's an issue. Has new clutch and sits at 148,852 miles.
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Every time my car is idling I get this weird fluctuation of rpm. What it might be. [URL] .....
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I have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
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But I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
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I have a 2004 Jetta w/ the 2.0 engine, auto transmission. Lately it has developed a very gassy smell when idling. Could be all the time I guess, but I only ever notice it when idling. It seems more noticeable on the passenger side of the car, or maybe my wife just has a better sense of smell than I do since she noticed it before I did.
The car seems to run fine, about the same as it always has. The idle is slightly rough, but it has been like that ever since I got the car. I got it with about 110,000 miles on it and had the timing belt and water pump replaced as soon as I got it. Mileage now is about 130,000. No info on the maintenance history of the car, but when I had the timing belt changed they said it looked like it was probably the original one.
The check engine light has never come on. I think I'm due for some new spark plugs so I was going to be replacing them soon anyways. Not sure what to check out here that might be causing this?
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
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I have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .
I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !
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I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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So my jetta is 2001 i believe and idleing like its got major breathing problems, it goes from 700rpms to 1500 in cycles and sometimes dies out all together. I thought it was some kind of vaccum leak and had a few pipes in the engine bay replaced but it didnt fix it. Its also missing a muffler so its really load and annoying, especially when im at inn n out in the drive through lol. Other than that, the car doesn't seem to be running that bad but the check engine light is on as well as the traction light comes on sometimes for no reason.
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