Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - AC Only Works If Turn On (push Button) Before Starting Car
Aug 18, 2015
2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car
1- get in car, push in AC button
2- start car
3- feel cold air
4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)
If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.
When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.
This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...
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So lately days have been getting colder and my F is behaving a bit weird. This issue may have happened on warmer days but it happens more frequent now. So issue is that the car takes a few tries before the push button actually works. Even if I depress the brake pedal the light stays orange instead of turning to green so I have to press it several times to start the car.
Also at least one time the car actually begins to crank but it falls short, like it doesn't makes it through the full cranking sequence hence requiring a second shot.
Is my button broken or is my battery dying?
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I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
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So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
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I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
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I started the car with keyless push button and almost immediately moved the gearshift selector from Park P to Drive D. I drove like this for several miles on traffic-congested surface streets. The Phaeton felt as if I was on 2nd gear. Upon stopping, and moving gearshift selector to P, Phaeton would not turn off engine by hitting the keyless push button Start/Stop. I had to plug in the key (had not done that in a long time!) and twist it counterclockwise to kill the engine. Upon rebooting the car (used to be called re-starting the engine, I guess), everything went back to normal.
Photo of screwed-up transmission indicator : [URL] ....
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Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent. The press button inside the car no longer works so the A/C has been stuck ON for some time now. I don't live in a hot area so going without A/C wouldn't bother me too much. Is there an easy (read cheap) way to simply turn off the A/C from under the hood? My brother says he wants to remove the A/C belt but his knowledge of cars is often dicey. Might fix the problem, might blow up the car.
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I have 2002 2.0 Jetta that I totaled. I found a 2000 2.0 Jetta that had no engine or tran. I swapped the entire wiring harness with the engine and trans from 2002 into 2000. I even swapped the doors. The cluster, steering column and all. I am still in the process of getting a few parts to finish it up. At this point, the only thing not hooked up is the headlights and the radiator. I hooked up a battery and tried to get it to turn over today. I turned the key to the on position and the cluster did not do anything. The engine turned over very slowly in the start position.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
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I have an 02 GTI w/ 1.8t and 5spd. I was in the drive through and all of the sudden the ABS, ASR, and seatbelt lights came on and the battery light is randomly blinking. I got home turned the car off and went to restart it and when I turn the key nothing happens. I should also mention I recently have 2 cels for p0171 lean condition and bank 1&3 misfires that developed after I replaced a bad injector. Where do I even start?
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
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I have a vw golf v6 2.8 4motion year 2002 and it has a few electrical problems. When ever i turn off the car and take the key out the electric windows still work and go up and down and i think its draining the battery but when i lock and unlock the car using the key they stop working. And the rear drivers side door is completely dead nothing works on it. What is causing this??
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.8t today and have a few questions for some of you with vast knowledge on these cars.
1) When I lock the car the interior lights don't turn off, and about 5 seconds later the dash lights turn on. I sat outside in a lawn chair and waited 10 minutes to see if they would go off and they didn't. Would that be a faulty door switch or the CCM acting up?
2) Doing a 3" catless downpipe with 3" straight pipe?
3) Are there any major issues I should look out for? The car seems to be in pretty good mechanical condition, minus a loose exhaust hanger that rattles at idle. Not bad for 119,00 miles.
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I'm wondering if this piece of plastic has anything to do with it,also it is a 2001 jetta 2.0 .I just don't know what it is, or what to look up as a part # or name.
About 2 months ago,it just started acting up, shifts fine, but I have to push down hard 75% of the time to get it into reverse.
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I have a 2002 and i just recently started having a problem with my turn signal. It seems that when its hot outside, my turn signals wont work, left or right signal. could it be the fuse, or would it be within the steering wheel.
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When I push down the clutch there is an annoying whining noise. I can be at a stop or driving and either way it does it. It goes away when I let the clutch up. 04 GLi 1.8T 6 Speed. Has the Valeo Single Mass clutch conversion.
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I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
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My car got broken into 2002 VR6 4 motion.
Windows no longer roll down.
Trunk doesn't open.
Interior lights don't turn on.
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When i am driving more enthusiastically, i notice when i make, say, a 90 degree turn and then push the gas pedal down midway through the turn, i get a clunkish sound or a stutter. Its not loud and i can only feel it through the steering and through the car. It almost feels like it is shifting power to the rear, but i would think that it would do it smoother....
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