Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Running Rough Then Stalled After Starting
Sep 22, 2016
So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
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A friend of mine got this car cheap because it stalled at stops. It also ran rough. The fuel guage would go from empty to full. Yesterday the car stalled out and wouldn't restart for an hour or so and even then it started hard. I drove it home for her but it barley made it. I changed the fuel pump because the dealer that sold it thought that might be it.
It started and ran rough like before after installing the new fuel pump.... Then it stalled and wont start. It fires but it still wont start. If I step on the accelerator it backfires a little but still no start. I checked for spark at the plugs in the front and they all have spark but its hard to tell if its a regular pattern or not. So its getting fuel to the fuel rail and at least some spark but it wont start.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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I was towing a trailer about 600 miles truck was running great, pulled in for fuel and truck was running rough, refueled and was on my way then when going down a hill (Idle) it just quit, had to tow remaining 200 miles.
After reading the forums I replaced the ICR (ICR screen was damaged) Truck now starts but its very loud and missing like crazy. and surges if i give it a little gas. codes 0268, 0281, 2284, 2288 I also replaced the ICP.
should I replace the injectors? what causes this?
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I have been beatingy head against the wall for the last month with this car. It started out by just running really rough and stalling out. Found out that I had a bad clamp on the air intake that attaches to the throttle body. Replace that after I already replaced the MAF. Everything was great till couple days later then the car just crank crank crank no fire....
I cleaned the grounds pulled the plugs and coils, had perfect spark. Put everything back come to find out after going thru my Bentley manuals I jumped around the fuel pump relay fuel pump kicked on perfect started great! Replaced the fuel pump relay BAM! Ran great!!!! For 2 days..... After that right when I pulled into the drive way the car would not start.... So I tried everything again.... To no avail..... Check the codes again, now I'm throwing these codes which yes I did cross reference in my Bentley manual.
P1117- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 short to ground
P1198- O2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2 electrical malfunction
P1472- EVAP emission control LDP circuit short to ground
P1516- Intake manifold changeover valve circuit open
And the dreaded same code I've had the whole time........
P0102- Mass or volume air flow circuit low input.
I have also tried tracking down any bad wires, and testing resistance...
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the last couple weeks the engine has been running poorly, rough idle .... and sputters until about 4k rpm with a noticeable loss in power. No clue what it is ... it seems to spring up after I got a coolant hose leak on top of the motor.
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I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
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I just replaced my injectors in my 12v vr6 and now having some problems. Mainly having issues with start up. Having to feather the gas to get it to start and still runs rough for a min or two.
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I have 2002 2.0 Jetta that I totaled. I found a 2000 2.0 Jetta that had no engine or tran. I swapped the entire wiring harness with the engine and trans from 2002 into 2000. I even swapped the doors. The cluster, steering column and all. I am still in the process of getting a few parts to finish it up. At this point, the only thing not hooked up is the headlights and the radiator. I hooked up a battery and tried to get it to turn over today. I turned the key to the on position and the cluster did not do anything. The engine turned over very slowly in the start position.
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Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
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I have a Jetta Mk IV, yesterday I went to go drive it and just as I pulled out of the driveway it started running rough, so I pulled back in the driveway and the coolant temperature sensor light came on, then the check engine light. and then it died. Then today I tried starting it, and it will only start and run if I have the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it runs really rough. Then it will die. I thought maybe the coolant temp sensor since the light came on. I replaced that, and it still does it. I'm leaning towards a head gasket.
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car
1- get in car, push in AC button
2- start car
3- feel cold air
4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)
If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.
When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.
This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...
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My 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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For the last couple years the engine light would come on solid every once in a while - read codes for the thermostat - my father-in-law checked it out (mechanic) and said it was fine and that the Jetta was being too liberal with it's engine light.
Engine light recently has started to come on more often. Started using premium gas - CEL went away for a few months. But now it keeps coming on, and once in a while flashes and the car runs rough. But it's intermittent - it'll go and come. Codes are:
16804 - catalyst system bank 1: efficiency below threshold
16684 - error in mapped cooling system
16685 - cylinder #1 misfire detected
Seems to me that the cylinder misfire would be the main issue here. I've changed the spark plugs pretty recently. Catalytic converter not too long ago also. I haven't changed the coil pack since I first got it like 6-7 years ago. With all the issues these years of VW's have had with coil packs, I'm fairly certain I need a new coil pack. O2 sensor?
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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I have a 2002 1.8T tiptronic with around 150k Kms. Recently, the transmission has started slipping, more so when at running temperature than when cold. It feels like when a certain amount of gas is applied is when it starts slipping. It can slip immediately after 3-4 and 4-5 with continued acceleration, or will constantly slip while in 5th if trying to drive at speeds greater than 90 km/h (with very gradual acceleration to that point).
Does this sound like a clutch wear issue requiring a new transmission, or more like a valve body issue?
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I don't own a VW, but my friend does, and she knows absolutely nothing about cars. She drove me home from a friend's house today, and I noticed her car was sitting at insanely high RPMs, even though we were only going like 60-65. The car was ranging from like 4500-5200rpms the entire way home, and the engine sounded like a lawn mower.
Don't know many details on the exact model of 2002 jetta it is (I'm a subaru guy) but it's an Auto. I was convinced she had it in 3rd the entire way instead of drive. I asked and she said it was in drive, but I was sitting in the back so I couldn't quite tell. Not sure how being in 3rd works on an automatic, but she could still come to a full stop. The car was pretty much constantly sitting at above 3k whenever it wasn't at a full stop though. Like, after letting of the brake at a stop light, and pressing the gas, it'd pretty much immediately flick up to 3k and never go below.
So, not sure if this is normal for these cars, but I thought it'd be worth asking since it would suck for her if this could have been fixed earlier. My subaru sits at 3k when I hit 60, and only hits 4k if I'm going like 80, so I just thought this seemed pretty weird.
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02 Jetta GLS ... 1.8 Liter Turbo ... 5 speed manual
Threw a lot of codes I don't know the #s but I can get them tomorrow, but I know there was a throttle pedal sensor, cam sensor, MAF, turbo, and a computer one.
I've had the car 2 weeks and its driven fine every day until today I backed out of my drive way after doing some driving earlier in the day and popped it into first and she fell on her face, no power rpm's were near 300. shut it off start it back up idles a little rough and I have a traction control light CEL and EPC lights all on. when I first take off it chugs and is hard to even get going and then it takes miles to get up to speed. I can put the pedal to the metal and my rpms barely budge and the car ever so slowly gains speed, she eventually will top out around 70. but that's after quite a stretch.
This happened one other time and after a few minutes everything went back to normal for nearly a week , this time no such luck.
Possibilities to shoot down maybe?
-fuel filter/system
-Cat. converter
-MAF sensor
-Coil packs
-computer something??
-throttle body
-turbo
-electrical
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