Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 04 - Idling Pitfall With Codes
Aug 8, 2015
My gf's 04 gti 1.8t 5spd is having idling issues. Here's the rundown, at idle it sits at 800 rpm but when given a rev it then becomes erratic and fluctuates between 500-1100 rpm. When throttled again lightly it returns to normal 800 rpm idle. The car will try to stall a little bit. Now for the codes and lights. The lights are the traction control light and the check engine light. The codes are p0102 (MAF) and p2181 (coolant system performance). I have recently had a misfire which I took care of with 4 new coil packs. I kept the 3 good ones I took out. I have to change the plugs still but don't think it's an issue. Has new clutch and sits at 148,852 miles.
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We have a 2001 Jetta 2.0L with 170000 miles. The AC had been getting weaker, but now it only works when the car is idling. Which seems really odd???
Started car, after being parked for a while, and the temp was 73F at the dash vent. I figured it would get colder going down the road, but it got up to 90F at the vent. Returned home and let the car idle for a while and the dash temp went down to 80F. Went for another drive and it immediately raised to 90F.
The compressor clutch was engaged and spinning, but the larger metal line at the firewall didn't seem very cold. The smaller line was warm as expected. I added some R134a, but no change at the lines or in the car. We have had issues with the blend flapper and replaced the broken plastic part. You can hear the flapper slap when you rotate the dial from hot to cool, so it seems like it's working.
Could it be the compressor? I think it was only generating 150psi on the high pressure side during idle, but it would go up to 200-225psi when I revved the motor.
Replaced the valve body solenoids, increased pressure to clutch packs 8 clicks, added pentosin, cleared engine light, and the tranny is working perfectly.
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Every time my car is idling I get this weird fluctuation of rpm. What it might be. [URL] .....
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I have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
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But I have a mk4 gti 1.8t awp and recently it's been going downhill. Right now my only mods are a fmic, Cai, and a 3 in catless dp to a 2.5 in straight pipe. My car recently starting idling very rough and would practically die, the lights would also dim. While casting the idle was very rough too. Then yesterday my car started idling even worse and dying multiple times, plus my turbo stopped boosting and making what I presume to be the "death whine".
I replaced my spark plugs a few days ago and I checked my timing belt and it looked fine. I couldn't find any vacuum leaks either so I'm not sure what would be causing the rough idle? My valve cover gasket leaks and makes my sparks plugs covered in oil but I don't know if that could cause the rough idle. I unplugged my maf and ran it and there was no improvement.
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I have a 2004 Jetta w/ the 2.0 engine, auto transmission. Lately it has developed a very gassy smell when idling. Could be all the time I guess, but I only ever notice it when idling. It seems more noticeable on the passenger side of the car, or maybe my wife just has a better sense of smell than I do since she noticed it before I did.
The car seems to run fine, about the same as it always has. The idle is slightly rough, but it has been like that ever since I got the car. I got it with about 110,000 miles on it and had the timing belt and water pump replaced as soon as I got it. Mileage now is about 130,000. No info on the maintenance history of the car, but when I had the timing belt changed they said it looked like it was probably the original one.
The check engine light has never come on. I think I'm due for some new spark plugs so I was going to be replacing them soon anyways. Not sure what to check out here that might be causing this?
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When I'm idling and I rev the engine to exactly 1200 rpm i can feel an extra vibration coming from the engine. If i hold it at this rpm it will continue on. now this is not a violent vibration but more so of a buzz i can feel that travels to my steering wheel as well. what could it be ?
Another question is when i travel up my driveway and i hit the sloped curb at a angle i can hear a specific "clunk" sound coming from around the drivers foot well area what could this be? perhaps my axle going bad? I also heard it when I was reversing out of my parking space while turning.
I am new to this car and trying to make sure I'm doing everything i can to put it into good shape.
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So I recently swapped my 2.8l 12v vr6 for the same engine because mine blew up, everything went good and the car runs great but there is a faint kind of rattling sound coming from the top of my motor, when its idling it will be a constant faint rattle. It gets worse as i accelerate between 3 to 4.5 rpms but then stops making the noise when i really start cooking so Idk if I just can't hear it or what. I've tried looking it up but i can't seem to find a video that has the same problems as my car. My father told me it could be my rockers or valves and others have told me it could be my timing chain or guides. I would love to just take it to vw to get it diagnosed but I don't have the money. I will try and upload a video of the sound ....
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I have a MK4 Golf 2003 1.9Tdi PD100 , the problem is that the engine seems to miss when idling , so the question really is how can I tell which cylinder is missing , it seems to do it every 10 seconds or so and the engine shakes slightly at the time as if it were missing ! .
I suppose it would be easier if the cylinder was missing all the time , then maybe I could crack open a line at a time ! , but can you do that on a PD engine !
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I'm running into a brick wall trying to get my GTI to start. This post is my last-ditch effort before just towing it to a shop.
A little over a week ago, the car just died while idling outside a buddy's house. Prior to dying, it had been having some sputtering starts and had been dying while driving as well (engine cut outs) for about a month, but it had always started right back up strong after cutting out.
First I tried replacing the crank position/engine speed sensor. No dice, still not starting. I had new spark plugs in the toolbox so I popped them in, still nothing. Then I realized that my spark plugs were totally dry when I changed them. I pulled the hose off the fuel rail, tried to start the car, no fuel. I had a more mechanically inclined friend come out with a multimeter and he checked my fuel pump and relay. He tells me the relay is good, but the pump must be fried because it's getting power but not pumping (I'm not certain of this as I didn't physically lay eyes on the multimeter when he told me this). The next day, I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay just to be safe. The car started! I thought I had it all figured out. I drove the car for two days and then, last night, it refused to start again. This morning, pissed off, I went back and was ready to tow it but it started right back up again on the first try. I drove it home, but then later when I went out to go grab a burrito it wouldn't start again. It cranks and cranks but just won't catch.
Pertinent information:
- I do have a CEL. Don't remember the exact code it's throwing but it's something like "Engine distributor circuit, no signal." The code cleared after installing a new fuel pump, but the CEL is back now. Could be a new code, though as I don't have a scanner.
- No other nasty dash indicators are on.
- With the new fuel pump, even when it was working normally, I never heard the usual "priming noise" you get when opening the driver's door. This is strange to me as I used to hear it all the time.
- The car cranks normally but I think it just isn't getting fuel, even with a brand new pump, plugs and relay.
- About a year and a half ago, the coil pack was replaced under the recall campaign.
After all these new parts, I'm thinking electrical. A ground short or something. But I've seen that for some people it was the ignition switch, or the IMMO, or the fuel injectors, etc....
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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So my jetta is 2001 i believe and idleing like its got major breathing problems, it goes from 700rpms to 1500 in cycles and sometimes dies out all together. I thought it was some kind of vaccum leak and had a few pipes in the engine bay replaced but it didnt fix it. Its also missing a muffler so its really load and annoying, especially when im at inn n out in the drive through lol. Other than that, the car doesn't seem to be running that bad but the check engine light is on as well as the traction light comes on sometimes for no reason.
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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Okay I have a 2000 Jetta GLS VR6. I had the engine replaced after i found out the block was cracked when replacing the heater core. ever since it was replaced the car runs great but it keeps throwing these 4 codes.
p1424 secondary air injection system bank 1 leak detected -intermittent
p0411 secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected
p1603 internal control module failed self test -intermittent
p0134 02 sensor bank 1 sensor no1 no activity -intermittent
The thing that is bugging me is that the sai pump is still running. On cold start it literally sounds like a Dyson vacuum. What i should try.
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I own a 99 Mk4 Golf 2.0L the issue I have been experiencing for almost a year now. Is that I'm getting a fuel odor smell every time the car is either idling or moving. My check engine light is on I have also noticed after pumping fuel the car has a difficult time turning on. It eventually turns on and runs .
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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I have a 2001 1.8t beetle and doing some research to buy parts I came across two different engine codes. My trunk says I have a AWV engine but the cylinder head says AWM. This is really confusing as looking them up I get three entirely different options for this car.
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I recently had an issue with a coolant leak. the Y shaped coolant line connection went bad located under the power steering reservoir. The car got hot and the coolant light came on i immediately turned the car off and saw coolant leaking out from this.
Now today I start my car it has a rough idle and dies once it dies it doesn't start again and the epic light comes on throwing the codes
17579 P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
17951 P1543 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too Low
16497 P0113 Intake Air Temp.Circ High Input
17987 P1579 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
17953 P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
17976 P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
18012 P1604 Internal Control Module Driver Error
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Throwing 2 codes -
P0172: too rich
P1176: post cat 02 reached limit
Last time it turned on it had horrible air flow, it felt as though it was choking. definitely not a misfire. occasionally after spirited driving the engine would die after I came to a complete stop then worsened to cutting off when I put the clutch in at high rpms. also have a slight loss of power. I also recently added a 3" tbe and changed coil packs.
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This isnt my first vw but its my first vr6, its a 2000 gti glx, only showing codes for o2 sensors havent got a vag com yet only have a obd scanner. It idles fine and runs smooth until i get over quarter throttle then it starts hesitating like there isnt enough fuel or air...i know that the noob owner i bought it from cheaply put exhaust on it and i didnt see any o2 sensors but ive never known a car to not run correctly without them.
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So my car has been dropping multiple codes after I scanned her and found all five: p0303, p1128, p0172, p1300, p0301. She is just a simple five speed AEG and has no mods other than a SRI. I already replaced the MAF but that ended up causing more codes and I have checked the vacuum lines to no avail.
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