Toyota - Venza :: Dash Lights Are Flashing Dim To Real Bright / TRAC Light Comes On
Jan 30, 2011
April 2009, I bought a 2009 Toyota Venza which I totally love. About 2 weeks into ownership the battery went dead. I had it jump startd and all was well. In the time since I bought it, the battery has gone dead 5 times. Numerous trips to dealer and can't find anything. The final straw was when I was having car washed and the battery went dead. I had to call tow truck to drag me out of car wash an take car to dealer. This time they saidit was a bad battery. Now my dashlights are flashing dim to real bright and my TRAC light comes on so I can't put car into gear.
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I own a Toyota Venza 2013. I have lost control of my ac system. None of the controls work on the dash. The system works because the ac is running but you cant change any of the settings as well as turn it off. It seems that the panel has lost power.
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I've seen This Problem discussed about GMC models but not Toyota Avalon. Why does my '97 Avalon ABS & Track Off dash warning lights Continually flash on occasion? Also, on occasion while making a turn, my car just shuts off! So far, it's started right up without stranding me.
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I know I'm not the only one that think the dash illumination lights are too bright! Even when turn turn them all the way down, yes they go down but still too bright. Any mod to make the inside lights dark? I have thought about buying tint and tint the over the speedometer and the clock and radio... Not sure how it would hold since its plastic......
I use my personal car for side work (at night) and need sit in my car and if the car is running and I cut all the lights off, and use the emergency brake to cut the day time running lights off, the dash lights go bright...wtf. I've also thought about removing the fuse for the lights, but I read the same fuse is used for the airbags as well.....
2011 Sonata GLS
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I noticed the dash lights go from bright to dim depending on the brightness outside. If i go under an overpass even at freeway speeds it will dim down and then come back up during the day. Even if I have my head lights on during the day it does that. Is there anyway to stop this?
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My 2005 Lincoln LS V8 has 126,000 miles on it. The advance trac light (the little car with the skid marks trailing it) has been on and off intermittently for the past 15,000 miles.
Today, the light began flashing constantly after my mechanic plugged the code machine into the car to diagnose the Check Advance Trac message. From this, I know that I need a $900 sensor or module for the permanent repair. The "Check Advance Trac" message still is intermittent, but the little car is flashing now constantly.
Is there a way to have the light stop flashing and return to being on intermittently or on solidly all the time-without replacing the unit? Did the mechanic do something or not reset something correctly?
Also, can a used unit be used to replace mine? My goal is to get another 14 months and 30,000 miles out of my car so I can replace it with a CPO 2013 MKZ.
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I have Holden Rodeo, am assuming these are very similar cars if not the same. Our 2004 Rodeo is having intermittent trouble starting, sometimes when the key is turned it is dead, no clicking noise, all lights on dash are on and engine light flashing. it goes from being dead to a short turning of engine, eventually it will turn over but may have trouble firing. the next time it will start perfectly.
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A couple of weeks ago I was driving my 2008 Toyota Yaris and the check engine light came on. Soon after the check engine light came on every dash light started flashing. The Car down shift into second while I was going 55 miles an hour! We took the car into a service center where they said it was the speed sensor which they replaced. We got the car home. I drove it to work the next day and while going to lunch the check engine light came back on! The car seems to be shifting fine though! They mentioned that if the speed sensor didn't fix it, it could be the "cluster"! What the heck is that?
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Engine light, VSC and TRAC off lights come on. Local garage says code P1201, go to transmission shop. My code book says Injector circuit open/shorted cylinder #1. Is this still a transmission shop issue? I am terrified of dealerships, can I drive it a few more days, short distances whilst I decide who will dupe me over more?
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I have a 2010 Corolla. The car is flashing the infamous VSC Off, trac, engine light! The car is still has the powertrain warranty. I was wondering if I should take it to a Toyota dealership.
But I read just getting the diagnostic itself is around $100. I don't want to end up paying for that if the repairs end up being something that's not even covered under the warranty.
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I have a 2010 Rav4, the tire pressure, track light and the engine light came up. I put air on the tires, about 30 lbs, but the pressure light is still on.
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I have a 2001 toyota 4runner 6-cylinder 3.4L engine with about 197xxx miles on it. I just took it in for an oil change a few weeks ago and when they checked all the other fluids in the truck they said the coolant seems sludgy and dark. Also the check engine light and vsc trac and vsc off lights came on, a week or so before the oil change. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do almost all my work myself with the limit of the tools i have, but i can't seem to figure out what is causing this.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with electrical problems that started showing up recently. One day the check battery light turned on and about 15 minutes later the AC would lose power intermittently. After parking the vehicle that day I tried to start up and only heard a rapid clicking sound. I exchanged the battery since it was still under warranty and everything seemed to work fine for one whole day. The next day the battery light turned on again, followed by the ABS warning light, and then the airbag warning light. Within about 5 minutes the dashboard back light started flickering and other warning lights started lighting up randomly. Within a minute of that the car shutoff and would not start back up again.
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I have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
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My brake lights keeps going off and the stop fuse keeps blowing and when it blows the TRAC light turns on and stay on. I try to change all the brake light bulbs and the 15amp fuse that was blown but it blows again what could it be?
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A friend drove into work in her 2009 Venza. As she parked. the engine went up in flames. She's okay, but the vehicle isn't. This just happened today 4-15-2010 in front of scores people. Toyota says there isn't a problem.
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I am looking to purchase a Toyota Venza but can not find what model offers the sunroof. This is a make or break deal for me.
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Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
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My car (toyota venza) recently developed some buzzing noise, here is a video recording [URL] ..... I tried to google around and did not find anything.
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My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
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My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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