Avalon 2005-12 :: 2006 - Burning Oil / Consecutive Ignition Coil Failures
Jun 18, 2014
I have a question regarding oil burning by the 2GR-FE V6. My avalon is a 2006 xls/navi, 160 000 km, very well maintained, only synthetic oil changes (AMSOL 5w-30, but switching to 10w-30 now that the oil burning began). All the recalls were done on it already, it was dealer maintained till 65k then I took over when we bought the car. The only other issue I had with it were the 3 consecutive ignition coil failures (by the way, you must replace those with oem toyota parts, I tried saving money on aftermarket and the results were discouraging).
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The 2005 Avalon has 48K miles and it's been running well without any issues, until today.
Driving in city traffic, max speed is about 30 ml/h, The "Check Engine" light and the "VSC (Vehicle Slip Control) Off" lights came on. I did stop the engine, restarted after couple of minutes and the same lights stayed on. The car ran just fine, no noticeable difference in performance.
With the OBDCOM reader, the Avalon has this code:
P0351 232
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
That seems to indicate a malfunction for cylinder A, or #1, ignition coil that has nothing to do with the "VSC" AFAIK. Is this a misread by OBDCOM reader, or the Avalon is confused?
The code had been reset via the OBDCOM reader, the car runs fine, neither of the lights come on now. Should I do something about coil A, or just wait until the code comes back?
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I've been having issues with my 2000 Toyota Avalon for the past few days. After troubleshooting with my mechanic this morning, we discovered that the front three ignition coils (when looking at the car from the front bumper) do not function when the car idles. However, they seem to work perfectly once the RPM increases past about 2500. I bought some new ignition coils to replace the originals, but no joy with those. The idle is still very rough and one can feel the misfire any time the engine is not revving higher than 2500 RPM. During our tests, we also found that the original coils do not produce a spark when the spark plugs are inserted. I did the same test with the new coils and had the same result, although the middle plug sparked briefly. The fuse for the ignition coils has been checked (it's fine). I know it must be electrical but was wondering where exactly the problem lies?
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What's the easiest way to get access to the ac clutch coil without removing the compressor. How do you get to the coil? how many snap rings are there?
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What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
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I had squirrels eat wires to the front 3 Ignition coil connector on my a 2005 ford escape XLT,my question is the new connectors have a white and black wire and the old ones had a red and a colored wire, but comparing both old and new connectors I notice the new connector has the black wire where the old connector has a red, so do I use the black wire to replace the old Red? , it's rather confusing to me when you plug in the new connector you can see the black wire is where the red wire was on the old one, or does it matter which wire goes where?
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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How to remove the clip on ignition coil connector wires that attach to all 4 of the coils.
I see that it has a black tab that you pull to the up or out position. From there I'm at a loss what to do. I managed to prode and poke and got one off, but I nearly pulled the connector off the wire and I know I didn't do it right.
Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
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2006 Avalon cranks, turns over briefly, ignition catches for a second then dies out....
CEL is on and shows the following:
PO102 - mass air flow circuit
PO351 - Ignition coil A
PO352 - Ignition coil b
PO353 - Ignition coil c
PO354 - Ignition coil d
PO355 - Ignition coil e
PO356 - Ignition coil f
I checked the front three coil packs, seem to check out, the back three are a BEAR! don't want to rip into those. I know if one or two were bad, I would get a bad idle....
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My wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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I have a 05 Avalon keyless ignition that I have recently replaced the battery because the car wouldn't start not even with a jump. With new battery everything comes on in the dash as normal, but the car won't start. Could it be the starter is gone bad or could it be a fuse?
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When ignition is turned on the front defrost light blinks fo 30 second before the climate control screen initializes. Then the temp defaults to 75 degrees instead of the last teperatue / mode selected. Only dash vents blow regardless of mode selection. Dealer report was inoperative servo motor. my inspection, visual was that all three servo motors power and move to default position when battery power is restored. It seems that the command to the center servo motor is not correct.
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I have 06 XLS with 56,000 miles and about 3 weeks ago the check engine and VSC lights came on. It was fixed, a ignition coil on the 4 cylinder.
Now driving home today the check engine and VSC lights are on again! I was wondering should try to get the dealer to replace all the remaining ignition coils ?
Plus I read their was some type of manufacturer defect on the original ignition coils from the factory. Why Toyota won't recognize this issue ?
Two ignition coils in a little over a month . My first Toyota and I'm rolling with the punches .
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I just changed the ATF fluid and filter on a 2006 Avalon. I added a little over 4 quarts, maybe 4.1 quarts. How to check it if there is the proper ATF amount. There are 4 notches on the transmission dip stick. Do I leave it running or not. How do I check it??!
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We just got the car and I know for fact the CC worked before. Now I don't even get a light when pushing the on/off button on the end of that incredibly weak column arm.
Is there a fuse, or relay? I checked under the hood in the fuse/relay box everything there seems fine, although I don't know if 1 of those relays controls the CC?
2006 Avalon
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I have a 2006 Avalon XLS. Great car. Came with 1 cut master key and 2 remotes. I bought two blanks off amazon with the right transponder chip and had them cut for $5. Now I need to use my master to program the transponders in the two new keys. Or to get the car to recognize the two new keys to start it. They just turn and crank right now.
Any way to do this without the dealer? Mine wants $120 for programming. I do have the black master key.
I have tried the whole master key on off six times and open close drivers door five times deal. I cannot get my security light to stay on to accept new keys.
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I've got a 2006 Avalon coming up to 30 K, bought it last summer. Starting to use the heater now, and it doesn't seem to work well. Have to turn it to 80 to get heat, not cold air, etc...
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We just bought a very clean 06 XL with low mileage. After getting home and getting out of the car, I went back and opened a door to retrieve some papers. The damn alarm went off, and of course the keys were in the house. The doors had not been locked. It does this every time. We don't lock the car in the carport, and if anyone opens an (unlocked door) the alarm sounds. I tried putting it into valet mode, but no difference. Called Toyota customer care, and they said according to the vin, it did not come with a factory alarm, so must be a dealer thing. How to disable this thing or change the settings? It sure looks like a factory alarm.
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Replaced battery with good battery, terminal post, tested starter (twice), verified that 12V is switched to solenoid by ignition switch, cleaned all contact surfaces, etc. but starter still will not crank.
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My 2006 Toyota Avalon Limited AC clutch is not engaging and I am wondering how I can bypass the computer to engage it. I think I have low pressure and I will be recharging the AC with freon.
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