Avalon 2005-12 :: New Tires / Wheels And Now Car Slightly Pulls To The Left
Aug 6, 2014
I recently got new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires mounted on new OEM Toyota rims and am noticing my 2012 Avalon pulls slightly to the left. This car is the first front wheel drive car I have ever owned & am wondering if this is somewhat normal. It did not seem to do this when I had the old tires(Michelin Energy MXV4) tires with the original rims. It is not THAT bad but I DO notice it. My current mileage is 36k.
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2011 Limited. 44867 miles.
Today when I rotated all five Turanza tires (RF > SP, RR > RF, SP > RR, swap L, as per the manual), I noticed the left tires (only) have exaggerated outer edge wear. All three from the right have even wear.
Wifey says it's because I weigh 400 lbs (181kg) and am generally driving alone. When I'm not alone, my passengers are all normal weight. This would be the first time in my life my weight cause uneven wear to tires.
By the way, these tires are LOUD on certain road surfaces.
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My car has a left front pulling issue.
I have a 2003 Forester with 74,000 miles. At 55,000 (18 months ago) I replaced the Kumho tires with Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires and immediately had an issue where over 50-60 mph the car slightly pulls to the left under all road conditions except extreme right lane well crowned. Previously it always tracked straight, though seemingly less accurately than with the newer tires.
I've had it aligned 3 times by two different shops and they always find some small out of align issue they correct and say the problem should be better. One of them the Subaru dealer. Nobody sees a suspension issue. The tires have been rotated at least 4 times. No unusual wear. Wearing nicely. But over 50-60, while slight, it is so annoying I would love to deal with this nuisance issue which sometimes puts me out of my lane. And always to the left. I've checked tire pressure and have even over-compensated by raising the front left pressure to rid the issue but it won't quite go away.
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My son has a 1963 Mercury Comet with a 170 straight 6 and automatic trans. Originally it would die when he made a sharp left. We fixed that by rebuilding the carb and putting in a new float. Then we found that the back brakes weren't working and had to replace a clogged brake line. Now for the weird problem. Whenever he brakes it pulls slightly left and the motor almost dies. If he anticipates the pull and steers right the car keeps running beautifully. I am assuming that the pull is probably caused by not getting all of the air out of the brake lines, but why does the car almost die unless he steers right when braking? The car does not die anymore when he makes left turns. These are non power hydraulic single cylinder brakes so there is no vacuum connection involved. The fuel filter and pump have been replaced.
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When driving in a straight road (even at constant speed) car pulls to right. I have to apply force toward left constantly. Did a wheel alignment, but that didn't fix the issue. Given below is the result sheet.
2009 Avalon Limited
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My car has a little bit of a shimmy between 65 and 80, can feel it more when changing lanes slowly, after 80 slows down to almost nothing and by 100 is gone. Road force and high speed balanced, new set of tires (Mich. PS2) still does it. One more detail, the steering wheels is slightly tilted to the left when driving straight, anything to do with this? I'm suspecting the rotors too, but I only have 3,400 miles on my car.
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I have a 2005 Malibu. After two alignments, a front wheel alignment by an independent shop and a "four wheel" alignment by the dealer, my car still pulls to the left at highway speeds. What else could be the cause of this? Bought the car with 22,000 miles and now have 80,000 plus. No accidents; don't understand what is wrong.
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2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
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What is the life expectancy of the PS pump? car and 255K (08 Touring) it is beginning to leak very slightly....
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2010 avalon, 67k km. I took the vehicle to dealership and they did four wheel alignment. shocks/struts and lca bushings all in great shape.
vehicle no longer pulls as much to left or right when cruising on highway as much but problem is still there. Road is arrow straight yet I need to turn the wheel slightly to the left or right to keep it going straight. otherwise, it pulls to the side once i let go.
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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I have found the OE tires are very noisy at lower speeds. They are Michelin Energy. I have Michelin Primacy MXV4 on my 2008 Avalon and they are very quiet. Is there a solution other than replacing them?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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Took my 07 Avalon Touring to the dealer because of a check engine light. They replaced coil and plugs, but also told me unbalanced wheels had caused the computer to throw a code. As Click and Clack would say, this sounds bogus. I'm feeling no vibration and the wheels were balanced about 3 months ago.
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I have a 2011 Limited and the center console and dash around the nav system is very brittle and makes a crinkling noise when touched slightly. I can pop the shifter bazel and all the surrounding plastic off with a slight finger pressure. Over bumps and when I'm driving with side pressure from my legs everything makes noise.
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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On my 09 avalon I always fill up the tank with premium gas. Got 225 miles out of it and the gas light came on. Went to fill up again and it only took 15 gallons. I googled it and our tanks are 18.5. Is my light coming on to early? Is there still 3 gallons left in the car when the light comes on?
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I have noticed if I turn on the AC and set it to any front defrost setting (either full front defrost or mix front defrost and lower vents) and turn up the heat that when I turn it on the next day there is a horrible smell. If I run the AC and turn the temperature up there is no smell so long as I don't use any setting using the front defrost. The smell is bad enough that I have to open the windows to air out the car. After a few minutes the smell goes away.
The car is an '06 XL. I noticed it intermittently when I first got it two years ago, but this winter the smell happens every time I use the AC on any front defrost mode. My guess is the heating element under the front windshield. If I turn on the heat without the AC on any front defrost setting I do not have the problem.
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On my 2012 Avalon, moving shifter to the left of "D" for manual mode causes a downshift to 4th gear. Is it supposed to do this? For me, this would be poor design in that I may be setting up to pass, but not quite ready to downshift to 5th yet. And even going 60mph it still gets 4th... Or I may be going to climb a mountain (as I was going to Colorado last week) and only need 5th, not 4th. So I have to upshift to 5th AFTER I move to manual mode..
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I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon. When you turn the wheel it will make about 1 1/2 turns to the right and then locks, but when you turn left it will turn almost 2 1/2 full turns, if you move you will hear what I believe is the tire rubbing, haven't done it since I first noticed this problem. What could be causing this?
The alignment and everything seems fine on the car and there is no other issues with the steering. Just that the wheel turns too far to the left.
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So I have ran into the problem of the left headlight flickering. It went completely off today.
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