BMW :: 2004 - Transmission Does Not Want To Engage On Cold Mornings?
Dec 29, 2015
2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
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I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
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But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
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I have a 2006 f150 lariat 5.4 triton I just purchased a few months back with 80,000 miles on it.
I recently have been hearing a gurgling or even a water sound from under my dash board on cold mornings. Note I don't even use my heat or air conditioner and I drive about two miles to work, park my car and turn it off and for a minute or so I hear gurgling or a sloshing noise. Note some days I don't hear it when it's 60 degrees outa X warm for the day.
Now a week ago I took it to the dealer and they said yes your heater plugs were clogged, they fixed that and I can now still hear the noise....
So I have been searching around and allot of website have been saying that it's my coolant level. Now I just drove to work and here is a pic of my coolant level.
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I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra SE with only 3880 miles on it. I purchased it new last March. I have noticed when the car is cold when I shift from Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive, the transmission does not always engage immediately. It takes a second or so (not much over a second, but I haven't timed it). The car shifts smooth without any other issues. I have not noticed this concern when the car is warmed up, or seen this when shifting into reverse.
Should I be concerned about this shifting behavior? I have not contacted the dealership yet.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe (Automatic 3.3 v6 AWD). I have found the last few days (-20 C) where my gear shift will move into all gears (R, P, N and D) but the car wont move in Drive. R, N and P all work fine. It does seem as the car warms up everything's fine.
The light in the dash for D does not light up either when not working. What this might be?
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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my 2003 ion saturn will not start on cold mornings. after i wait a couple of minutes or more it will start. what is the problem. it has 97,000 miless on it.
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I have a 2006 Gx 470, which is the wife's car.
Yesterday I couldn't drive the car when 4WD shifter was in neutral.
The transmission would not engage in R or D.
Same thing when the car was put in low for the 4WD shifter.
However, it seems to drive normally when the shifter is in H.
When I went to put the shifter in Park from either the low or Neutral position it would have a high grinding noise.
Car is in the shop as we speak.
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My brand new gti with the lp is forming condensation inside the headlights on cold mornings! I have seen a few threads about this, but I'm planning to get a hold of vw because I hate the dealerships and they all basically suck once you've bought the car.
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96 Acura with a weird habit. On cold mornings, after a few minutes it starts this thing where it revs up about 500 or so, then back down. It does this while parked or when driving. When driving, it still revs up, but also revs down - like it's putting in extra resistance or something; have to give it extra gas when it does that. This usually stops once it warms up. Also, it runs a fair bit higher until warmup, then settles back down to 'normal.'
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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I have an '04 V10 and most mornings, particularly when it's cold, I hear a clicking sound coming from what sounds like behind the radio. It sounds like a relay clicking on and off or a muted turn signal. It lasts for about 15 minutes. It has no relationship to RPM and cycles about once a second, maybe slightly faster.
I am bringing it in for its 10,000 mile service. I have had no driveability issues and no check engine lights, although I have not hooked up a Vag to check for codes.
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Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
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Having issues on cold morning starts where the car is shaking/trembling at warmup idle? Obviously this problem isnt as prominent at this time of year...
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My 2000 jetta vr6 sounds very terrible when starting it in the morning after sitting overnight..
It only started when the weather has been getting colder it starts great in the warm and after I have been driving it recently.
It idles like crap, sounds like bogging and then eventually will get better once warmer
The other day got EPC light and traction control light and then that went away after a bit of driving now this morning check engine light ...
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,00 miles that started with the transmission periodically going into neutral while driving and sometimes while stopped at an intersection. Engine running, but no reverse or drive gear. After shutting down engine and restarting, I can drive again only to have it happen soon again. I have changed rear speed sensor, throttle position sensor, dropped the tranny pan and changed the ATF as well as tranny filter.
I also attempted to replace the transmission range sensor but was unable to remove the nut that holds the shift level onto the sensor. Sent 5 hours one day.... nut will not budge. Now the shifter inside the truck does not feel the same when shifting through the gears. Now the transmission will only engage in reverse but the truck will not move. If I wait 30 sec or so the truck will move in reverse. No engagement in drive, 3rd, 2nd, or 1st.
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I have found on my new 2016 Camry XLE that on cooler mornings of 50 degrees and the engine is hot, when I set the AUTO button on and set the temperature to 70 degrees, the system blows out cold air through the top vents. I have to run the temperature up to 75 to receive warm air from below. Is there a way for the dealer to change the settings to warm at lower temperatures???
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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