Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VR6 Sounds Very Terrible When Starting On Cold Mornings
Sep 15, 2014
My 2000 jetta vr6 sounds very terrible when starting it in the morning after sitting overnight..
It only started when the weather has been getting colder it starts great in the warm and after I have been driving it recently.
It idles like crap, sounds like bogging and then eventually will get better once warmer
The other day got EPC light and traction control light and then that went away after a bit of driving now this morning check engine light ...
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Have issues with their Bluetooth stereo. It works perfect with calls, but any time you stream music it pops and clicks and sounds terrible. This however does not happen with other phones!!!
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx with under 100,000 miles. Battery 1 year old, starter 3 months old. On cool or cold mornings I have intermittent starting issues. All lights come on, instrument panels gauges and indicators function right, no clicking or any noise. Just won't start. Typically if I come back in a couple of hours, it starts right up. Once it starts, I have no other starting problem with it the rest of that day.
On Christmas eve morning it wouldn't start. It didn't start for 2 days. I jumped it and got it started once, but after revving it and sriving it for 10 minutes I turned it off and tried to start it again - but couldn't. I wouldn't even jump after that. 2 days later, I had it towed to a shop where they removed the starter and greased the connections - and it started. They then sent it over to a Chevy dealer who checked all the codes (It never turns up any codes when it doesn't start) - but since there were none, they flashed the computer and started it 20+ times - no problems. They sent it back to the shop who also started it a bunch of times with no problems. They sent it back to me and it worked for another week or so before it started happening again.
It is not every morning - only random mornings. Except for that one day, it will always start later on in the day.
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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I have a 1.8t jetta that has a weird idle issue when starting and engine is cold it like to idle at 1200 rpm then will eventually work its way down to 800 rpm
I have no cel codes and have looked for vacuum leaks (but may have missed one) ,but if i start the car and it idles at 1200 rpm then i shut it down and start it right after it will idle at 800 rpm as normal.
Its a 1.8t unitronic stage 1 stock everything except e type coils with plugs at .032, Also does not have much pull after 4000 rpm, not to worried but just may be part of the issue....
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My brand new gti with the lp is forming condensation inside the headlights on cold mornings! I have seen a few threads about this, but I'm planning to get a hold of vw because I hate the dealerships and they all basically suck once you've bought the car.
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So I have been trying to get all the issues fixed on this car, and I think I'm getting close. I just gave the car a tune up, minus a new coil pack. (2.0 engine) I've fixed the broken hose on the secondary air pump and all my error codes appear to be gone. However, when I start my car on humid mornings, the car struggles to stay running. Once the car is up to a certain temperature, the car has no problems. But while it is cool and struggling to run, the check engine light will come on and flash. I heard that it could be from a crack in the coil pack that allows moisture to come in. Does that sound right? I would hate to put a new coil pack if I don't need it yet.
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Been having another strange issue(2011 gti) but after searching it seems 50% of people say it's normal. The car starts to warm up and finally reaches dead center 190, then until the car is fully warmed up I notice the temp gauge will drop a bit sometimes go back up then down a little again until the car is fully warmed up then it's fine for the rest of the day. I think it may be normal but the dealer wants to replace the thermostat anyway which requires a ton of other parts to be moved. Looking for opinions if its just how it works and have never noticed before or is it maybe my thermostat beginning to stick??
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with the 5.4L I bought it cheap and runs well. While going through doing the stuff that needs attention I noticed the 4x4 isn't workijg. It has whatbappears to be some cheap maybe plastic locking hubs and the manual pull stick onj the floor for engaging the 4x4.I can pull it into 4H and 4L, the dash lights confirming come on but the front wheels will not lock in.
One of the cheapo hubs looks like someone clamped vice grips on it to try and turn the and doesnt seem to totally lock in. The drivers side hub sounds like it is lock in but makes a terrible lound clicking noise.
They may be the stock hubs, have no markings to designate the direction to lock and unlock and do appear to be somt sort of plastic hub.... Are the hubs my problem since I can manually pull it into 4x4 and I can see the 4x4 shaft spin but the tires are not engaging?
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My car recently started making strange noises sometimes. Sometimes I hear a whirling sounds coming from the bottom half of the block which I'd hope it isn't the water pump. Also when i start my car and it cranks over, I hear what sounds like a blow off sounds but its not from my diverter valve.
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my 2003 ion saturn will not start on cold mornings. after i wait a couple of minutes or more it will start. what is the problem. it has 97,000 miless on it.
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2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
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My 2005 gti 1.8t started sounding weird a few days ago, it has a really deeper tone to it, sounds like a truck or a diesel. I can also smell gas in the engine bay, car seems like it runs fine just sounds really funky. Sound gets louder as I accelerate.
Here what it t sounds like right now. Sound is coming from top of the motor or behind it near downpipe, not beneath the car from exhaust.
[URL] ....
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The issue I'm having, as stated is a no start issue. Its completely random and has no pattern. Here is the issue.
When the issue occurs, you will go to start the car to only have it click at you. No crank, no nothing. The click sounds like it comes from the engine bay but has not been confirmed. If you turn the key without the clutch in, putting the clutch in will make the click sound.
Thinking it was the ignition switch, I replaced it with a unit from advance auto. The issue occurred again shortly after so I pulled it out and put the old one back in. Then I replaced the starter. That didn't do it either.
It hasn't done it in a while so I kind of forgot about it but its started doing it again. Time to fix it.
Picture of the car for your viewing pleasure of displeasure...
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But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
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96 Acura with a weird habit. On cold mornings, after a few minutes it starts this thing where it revs up about 500 or so, then back down. It does this while parked or when driving. When driving, it still revs up, but also revs down - like it's putting in extra resistance or something; have to give it extra gas when it does that. This usually stops once it warms up. Also, it runs a fair bit higher until warmup, then settles back down to 'normal.'
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I drive a 2003 Golf 2.0 manual. I've had this problem happen to me four times in my year-and-a-half of ownership -- once about three months ago and three times today.
Whether at highway or city speeds (60+ MPH or 30 MPH, respectively), power to the accelerator cuts out without warning. The engine briefly sounds like it's working overtime (but it could just be my foot on the accelerator pedal) and the tachometer needle struggles to stay at the RPMs. In a matter of seconds, the engine stalls and the needle gradually starts to fall. I can't tell you how dangerous of a situation this is to be in: 65 MPH on the highway with vehicles all around you, your car chokes, and you're losing speed.
The first time this happened to me three months ago, I had to hit my emergency lights and pull over to the highway shoulder. Turning the ignition off, then on, and attempting to start the car didn't work. I thought I was in trouble. Then I removed the key and tried it again. It was successful. I got to my destination (my parent's home) and they recommended I go see their regular mechanic for an inspection. He told me that the problem could be low fuel in the tank, as I did at the time. When the car's fuel tank is at a certain angle, the fuel pump doesn't pump fuel properly, messing up the whole combustion, and causing the car to stall. This explanation fit the situation I was in perfectly, as the fuel indicator had just come on when it occurred.
Today, the fuel indicator was just above the last 1/8 -- no fuel warning light -- and the car stalls three times (once on the highway to work, once on the highway home with no shoulders to pull over, and once on city road). I had prior experience about this and drive a manual, so I have attempted each time today to re-start the car while at speed. It was a scary situation the second time today: 9:30pm, dark, modest amount of cars on the road, on a twisty highway with no shoulders (California Highway 110 between Downtown and Pasadena) where each time you turn the ignition off, the headlights go out, the steering wheel goes stiff, and you're decelerating. Fortunately, I dropped only 25 MPH to 40 when I got the car running again when I remembered to remove the key first before re-starting.
Needless to say, rather than wait two days to get cheap gas at Costco (b/c I work tomorrow as well), I went to the 76 near my home and filled her up . Hopefully, this situation will not happen again, as I will be a lot more diligent about keeping gas in my tank.
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I get some bucking under load between 1500 and 3000 rpm. This issue is more noticeable when the engine is warm. When it does this it makes a sound that to me sounds like a misfire from the exhaust, but I've never gotten a misfire code.
Sometimes i get codes p0411 and p0420 (secondary air injection and cat efficiency) but VCDS tests say my cat and o2 sensors are all good.
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I bought a 2005 Camry about 3 months ago. It has the 2.4l 4 cyl with about 139k miles. The car seems to run perfect, but it has a rattle noise right at start up on cold mornings. It only lasts for the initial 1/2 second start up, then it's gone. I'm thinking it's probably just a heat shield rattle or something, I just did a full synthetic high mileage oil change on it and that didn't work, so that just makes me lean more towards heat shield.
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I have an '04 V10 and most mornings, particularly when it's cold, I hear a clicking sound coming from what sounds like behind the radio. It sounds like a relay clicking on and off or a muted turn signal. It lasts for about 15 minutes. It has no relationship to RPM and cycles about once a second, maybe slightly faster.
I am bringing it in for its 10,000 mile service. I have had no driveability issues and no check engine lights, although I have not hooked up a Vag to check for codes.
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I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
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