Bonneville :: 1995 - Stalling Out And Power Windows Failure
Jul 1, 2004
Well my problem isn't a new one. My bonny - will stall at about anytime and anywhere - and yes various power ckts will also fail at the same time. I have cleaned every power connection that I can find. Several threads here have listed answers to this problem - One guy rebuilt his starter - another person found the problem in some wiring on the drivers side of the car in some shorted wiring. Some ignition modules and or coils have been replaced (do these drop out the power rail when they fail????) Interestingly enough I did not find any threads that indicated that cleaning power connections fixed the problem - Also, no one indicated that replacing their alternator fixed the problem. One guy did replace a battery with a leaky cell - he also replaced a neutral safety switch. I don't know which of those actions actually solved his problem. Since so many people have had a stalling problem and a power accessory problem at the same time (especially on 1994 and 95 models)- I thought it would be a good place to start a sort of clearinghouse where a collection of potential repairs could be cataloged. So if you have had a stalling and power accessory problem at the same time.
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I have a 96 SSEi, for the past week the power windows, locks and seat seemed to have a loss of power (not enough power to move them) then last night night they stopped working all together.
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All at once my power locks and windows on all doors and the power mirrors quit working. The Driver Info center also says "Unknown Driver" when I start the car. After that happened the check engine ligth came on and when I went to get that checked there was no power to the ODB port (not sure if it is related or separate). Also, the brake, ABS, and traction control lights are on...they have been so I'm sure that is a separate issue.
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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I've replaced fuse underhood and fuse inside door panel. I've read about in the glove box there may be a fuse there for power windows? I removed the glove box panel to find 4 relays. Nothing is marked on these relays or panel. I read the numbers off these four relays inside the glove box to the clerk and she did not show any such thing on her computer for my vehicle. can a person pop out the main driver door switch and replace that?
1995 jeep grand cherokee 4x4 6cyc
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I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
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Yesterday this thing died on me twice. 30mph to 0 in nothing flat. No problems with stalling before yesterday. It's at the shop now, but they tell me they aren't finding anything and probably won't if they can't get it to die on them too. It had only been driven for about 5 minutes before each occurrence, and each time I had just topped a small hill(if that matters). The second time, it did slightly hesitate to restart and seems to me there was some light smoke from the tailend.
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I also have a 2000 boneville and over the winter i discovered that those same three windows/locks/courtesy lamps doesn't work , I have went through all the fuses which are fine , I will call the dealership and check on the BCM. I also have the wet floor problem. But no sun roof, I read that it may be the connector under the pass seat, I see a connector above the carpet, could that be it or is it located under the carpet...
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I have replaced the driver control switch but the passenger and rear windows still doesn't work.
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I need to put a starter in my v6. Is it fairly simple or will i have to jack up the motor the problem is it starts fine when cold but after you drive it for a short distance and shut it off it has a hard time starting.
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1995 Pontiac Bonneville cranks but wont start.
I've replaced the crank sensor and also the cam sensor with no luck, the car cranks with no start, when I used starter fluid the car runs, when i stop using fluid it shuts off what could it be.
Only has 38,000 Miles on it.
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Just today,when replacing the UIM on a naturally aspirated 95 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 with a Dorman upgraded type from my local auto parts, I ran into an issue. When following specified torquing sequences and specs , be very careful with the 1 long stud (#7), as it will split your new manifold there if you try to torque to 89 in/lbs. Took 1st back for replacement ,and the second new one started to split at the same place. Was using a brand new Craftsman in/lb torque wrench set correctly and following instructions exactly. I've seen a lot of excellent info on this UIM issue with the GM 3.8 ltr 1995-2004 years, but never this issue with the replacement ones. If I have to change this again will definitely go with the aluminum one.
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Recently, my 1995 Bonneville SSE randomly will stall. No hesitating, no surging, no rough running, just DIE. This happens while driving, stopped at traffic light, warm / cold, Whenever the mood stikes it!
It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
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Just picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
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I have a 1995 Bonneville with about 160k miles. I have a problem with the PARKING light on the dash coming on, accompanied by a chime. This happens fairly consistently after first starting the car and driving off, or after coming to a full stop (e.g., stop sign) and then pulling away again. The light and chime come on for only 5 or 10 seconds before stopping all on it's own. One suggestion was that the parking brake pedal was sagging, but pulling up on the pedal does nothing (it's up all the way and doesn't budge). I've also read that a leaking master cylinder may cause the light and alarm to activate, but I can't see any evidence of leaks when I examine the MC.
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My car has 196,000 miles on it & recently starting loading up, stalling. May be heat related. How can I determine if it's the ECM, crank or cam position sensors? The last time it quit on me it scrolled thru "ABS out", "Trac out" & "Gear box failure". Let it sit a minute, restarted it, not a single thing shows up. I'm afraid to drive it as it appears to be getting worse. Our code reader is not giving us anything definitive to go on. Jaguar XJ8 2003....
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95 Bronc with a compressor failure. It sat up about a year and when i put it back on the road the AC Clutch failed so I replaced it in the hopes that maybe it was just a clutch. With the new clutch is made progressively louder racket so I stopped using it until the other day when the new clutch failed (I briefly turned it on).
I think it is time to replace the compressor. In researching the compressors I noticed that there are varied makes so I have a question as to which brand compressor to buy. Here are my options:
O'Reilly - Motorcraft - Assume FS10 - 283.99
Autozone - Ready Aire - FS10 - 235.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - FS10 - 179.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - SD709 - 247.99
Autozone - Denso - FS10 - 259.99
NAPA - Visteon - FS10 - 301.00
NAPA - (unknown) - SD709 - 409.00
ACKITS - Unicla - FS10 - 236.35
Do I get the FS10 or the SD709 (I assume Super Duty)? How can I identify which compressor my Bronc came with from the factory (FS10 or SD709)? I live in Texas so strong cooling is imperative. Should I even consider buying a remanufactured compressor (the ones listed above are all new)?
I typically stay away from getting parts from Autozone because I have found the parts that they sell to generally be of poor quality.
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My son's 1995 Pontiac Am windows are stuck closed. My understanding is that behind each of the doors is a regulator for the window. I was wondering how likely it was for all 4 regulators to go bad, or if the problem was possibly in the center console controls. Either way is there an easy way to diagnose the problem, before I start randomly replacing window motors
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So my honda 95 civic 1.5 engine is stalling out I think that it is my transmission so Im going to check that out in the morning my question is how much do I put in I watched a video on how to do it, do I need to put 3 quarts of the fluid in it or can I sneak by with just 2 quarts.
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Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
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I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
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