Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Ignition Switch Failure / Key Has Been Loose For Some Time
May 25, 2012
Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
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My mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
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I am the (once) proud owner of a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. I have owned the car for one year, putting only 12,000 miles on it (was 109,000 when I bought it.) The car has run quite well—I have not had any problems out of it (unlike the 1999-2005 generation Impalas). But, as many of you may have heard, GM had some massive recalls as of late. Many of the cars have had fatal ignition switch failures. Basically every single Impala in the last (my) generation has been recalled.
Take any other keys/paraphernalia off of the chain—basically, just insert the key into the ignition, unattached to anything. This is the fix for the time being, apparently—until they can get ignition switches for however many hundred thousand Impalas they have to fix.
I am about to make a 3 hour drive. Now, that wouldn't be the longest drive that I have made in this car (and I cringe at the idea that, driving 17 hours with a bunch of crap hanging off of my chain, that my car easily could have been one of the unfortunate ones.)
Now that I know that I cannot be sure of the safety of my vehicle, I need to know what to do in the case of an emergency. I want to know what exactly the situation of an ignition switch failure entails...basically, what happens to my car and my ability to control the car. Lastly, I need to know what to do if this happens.
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I just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
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This is an update to my Heater Hose to Water Pump Failure post. As it turns out, the water/coolant pump seems to have failed at the same time as the heater hose. I think Ford secretly installed an internal time mechanism to deconstruct certain parts at the same time.
Anyway, in desperation I took the van to the local Ford dealer for an inspection. NOTE: I don't trust most of the locally owned small time shops and national franchises. Half of the time, they don't know what they are talking about.
They said the water pump is toast. And I already knew that! Then they said, because the water pump is attached to the front timing chain cover, they need to replace the gaskets there also, and also the oil pan is attached to the front chain cover, so that needs done, and then they said the radiator is also leaking. What!!!
Then they asked if I would be interested in buying a new or used vehicle. This tool works great. Mine happens to be a left hand fan. The tool is used with the handle on the left. This tool is used to hold Water Pump pulley stationary, while unbolting the fan assembly.
Tomorrow morning is when I finally replace the water pump. Not a lot of tool are needed, except for the stubborn fan clutch. Sockets: 8, 10, 13, 17, except a 22 mm open end wrench for the fan clutch.
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I was wondering if brake vibration and shudder (all the way up to the steering wheel) could be caused by some loose joints and bushings in the front end suspension (like ball joints, tie-rods, etcetera).
Is it normal to grab a hold of the outer tie-rod end and to be able to twist it a bit? I have a vibration problem when braking, but I am thinking it has nothing to do with the brakes. I am thinking it is something abnormally loose on the front-end suspension.
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I got a code for Fuel pump secondary circuit failure, how do you fix it? 1990 Aerostar 4.0 2wd with A/T and A/C
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I just wanted to share with you all about a coolant leakage problem I had experienced for a couple of days.
It all started a few days ago when I noticed the temperature gauge needle, which I hardly ever look at, began fluctuating in the hot region. I thought "oh my god" what is wrong? I then stopped at the nearest gas station and added some, I mean a lot, of water. My initial thought was the coolant level was too low.
The following day, I noticed the belts were squealing a bit (at that time I thought it was another vehicle with loose belts, but NO... it was mine making the belt noise). At that time, I did not realize it was because the coolant was leaking onto the belt(s). But then when I made a stop at a location for a couple of minutes, I returned to my Aerostar and noticed a trail of coolant leaking from underneath the vehicle.
I thought "oh my god" the water pump is busted! I then took it to a local repair shop and inquired about the cost to replace the water pump.
But after I inspected the vehicle more thoroughly, I noticed some dryed out green colored stuff where the heater hose connects to the water pump. I then removed the heater hose from the water pump and discovered to my surprise a tiny hole had developed where the hose is expanded from 5/8 to 3/4 inches.
My plan to repair the problem is to purchase about 6" of 3/4" heater hose (to connect it to the water pump), and a Gates or Dorman plastic adapter reduction fitting that reduces it to 5/8", in order to plug it into the factory original old heater hose.
This is an emergency repair. While inspecting the heater hose, I discovered an electrical connection that goes no where.
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Catfish is a '96 4wd extended doggie RV, with 175k. It has developed transmission selector problems in the last few weeks.
The shift selector stops seem to be going soft. It's not to bad going from P to OD, but I have to fiddle with the lever almost every time I put it into reverse.
Particularly harrowing when trying to do a quick turn around in traffic. What's going on here and what I need to do to fix it.
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This van has the A4LD transmission. I know nothing about transmissions, so, when it wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd, or, 2nd to third, I researched it on here and found a lot of bad reviews. I also found out that it was likely the modulator gone bad, and how to replace it. I replaced it, and although the new one was restricted and the old one wasn't, shifting was back to normal. So, I was thinking, that was easy enough, pretty good for the original tranny which has 297,623 miles on it, and hasn't been serviced since the first 1k!
Well, that lasted about 75 miles. Now it won't go forward or backward. Everything is still in place, no leaks, fluid level is full. I didn't change the fluid or do anything other than change the modulator. (My friend can't afford to service it properly. Now it may need replacing!) I have only seen problems shifting between gears and OD, TC lockup, etc., but, nothing about not moving at all. What might be the problem? Is the tranny history?
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I just picked up Aerostar #6 and am in the process of transferring parts etc. Got this one cheap as it was badly abused and has issues. Big problem, the shifter takes a lot of wiggling etc to get out of park. Is the interlock easy to disable? If so how? Or would a good column from my 93 be an easy plug and play proposition?
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can you replace the upper control arm bushings (pass side) with the arm still in the truck?
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I have a '95 Aerostar where the two lights are always on. I'd like to pull the codes if i can. Does this year has the RABS or the RABS II module. Or is the diagnostic connector the same?
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I was wondering how do i replace the outer tie rod on a 95 ford aerostar awd 4.0L. I have enough for the parts but not extra tools. Need a tutorial on how to do it?
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My van with the digital dash just started to flash the battery voltage display, with the blinking battery symbol, periodic beep, and showing a message that the battery voltage is low. I took it home immediately, and measured the battery voltage at about 12.5V, compared to almost 14V on my other cars, so it does seem lower. As a quick test, I pulled the connector from the alternator, and the alarm stopped. Of course, this meant it was not charging, but odd that that little change would silence the alarm.So I suspect my alternator has failed...
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When I hit the brakes hard like seating the brakes the Aero would stall....
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I have a 95 Aerostar that when in park it is hard to shift into reverse, drive etc. It is an automatic, 3.0 liter.
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Whats the easiest procedure
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The egr switch is it a solenoid like the purge solenoid cause if it is I have 3 of them that have vacuum flowing through the input port/lower input with no power. Also no clicking when power is applied. What the heck. Isn't it just an on off solenoid..
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My dad and I are having allot of trouble getting our Aerostar to start up . It is getting fuel and spark , and it won't even run with starter fluid . It was running ruff before this . It is getting an all clear on the OBD codes . We took one spark plug out and it was pretty dirty , could that be our problem? Like I said we are getting spark , when we do a spark test . We are totally out of clues .
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Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
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