Ford Aerostar :: Brake Vibration And Shudder By Loose Joints?
Aug 14, 2012
I was wondering if brake vibration and shudder (all the way up to the steering wheel) could be caused by some loose joints and bushings in the front end suspension (like ball joints, tie-rods, etcetera).
Is it normal to grab a hold of the outer tie-rod end and to be able to twist it a bit? I have a vibration problem when braking, but I am thinking it has nothing to do with the brakes. I am thinking it is something abnormally loose on the front-end suspension.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
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I've been working on a 1996 aerostar van with a 4.0 for about a week now. Has a bad shudder at about 30 to 50 mph, check engine lite comes on and say number 6 misfire, when I first started working on the van it had cyl 1, 3 and 6 misfire put new plugs and wires on and it kept showing a number 6 misfire changed coil. Seem to work somehow, but they took it on a 260 mile round trip and used 34 gals of gas.
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My mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
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Just started to get a vibration in the last couple days. When giving it fuel there is no problem. when i let off the fuel it begins to have a slight vibration as it slows. even does it if i pop it into neutral. took it for a ride last night when i noticed it. wife sayed been going on for a few days. after just a 6 mile ride i crawled under and tried to check the joint but when i stopped i was not on level ground so have tension on the shaft but did notice that the rear joint was warm after just that short of a drive. not hot just warm compared to the other 2. it is a 2004 F250 SD 6.0DSL 4X4
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Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
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Catfish is a '96 4wd extended doggie RV, with 175k. It has developed transmission selector problems in the last few weeks.
The shift selector stops seem to be going soft. It's not to bad going from P to OD, but I have to fiddle with the lever almost every time I put it into reverse.
Particularly harrowing when trying to do a quick turn around in traffic. What's going on here and what I need to do to fix it.
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97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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I have a 1999 F-150, 4.2L V6 with 206,000 miles that recently developed a rear-end shudder/vibration. According to my door jam axle code (27) and the axle tag (3 37), I have what appears to be a conventional rear differential, even though most of my research would indicate this rear-end is for the F-250. In any case, and based on other online research, I changed the differential oil with a 75W-140 synthetic and added 4oz of a friction modifier. Now the vibration appears to be worse. It primarily vibrates when taking off from a stop, whether turning or not.
I have felt the vibration at speeds up to 60mph, but it is more noticeable at lower speeds. The vibration also seems to diminish after driving the truck for longer periods of time, particularly if at highway speeds. In other words, when I drive to and from work, which is about 30 minutes each way of mostly highway, the vibration is barely noticeable once I exit the highway and slow back down to 35-40mph. When feeling the vibration, if I decelerate, the vibration immediately ceases, but starts again when I accelerate. It's not as noticeable if I accelerate harder, but I generally don't do that. The gears inside the differential didn't have any noticeable wear, chips or slop/play. What may be plaguing my usual trouble-free F150?
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Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
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I now have an '01 Mountaineer with AWD and the 5.0. I have a strange vibration that only seems to happen when I accelerate as I get on the highway. I get up to speed and just as I let off on the throttle I get a vibration/shudder from the rear. Almost as if I ran over the rumble strip on the side of the highway. It's a short grrrr, then it goes away.
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I've got a 1993 ford aerostar. Today, my steering wheel started shaking/rattling when I turn the steering wheel. Seems to be more obvious when turning right rather than left, and is only obvious at low speeds.
Only thing out of usual was that the front had been on jacks for a few days for an unrelated (starter) repair. What to check or how to isolate? I imagine it has to do with the power steering but not sure what to check.
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Driving into work this morning, I came up to the first stop sign before I get on the "freeway" and noticed a weird vibration. As I slowed to stop I could have sworn it felt like the engine was being lugged, the same feeling you get in a manual when you try to come to a stop without using the clutch. I thought for sure the engine was going to die. The engine RPMs dropped to about 800-900 RPM and once I got to a complete stop the RPMs went back to normal.
It seemed to do this every time I came to a stop. Could my torque converter be locking up and not releasing as it supposed to causing the lugging sensation I'm getting? The truck accelerates fine and idles fine once stopped, but when slowing I get that weird vibration and maybe the lugging sensation is just in my imagination and has nothing to do with the engine.
I do have a vibration from a missing wheel weight, but that's usually felt at about 34-35 mph. In addition, I also have a bit of a brake vibration when slowing down quickly, such as when slowing quickly from 65 to turn off the highway onto my local road, but this is a completely different vibration.
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So I'm getting a mild to severe shudder depending on load and acceleration rate from stop to 10-15mph... It's worse if I'm on an incline...This has started since having a lift installed...I'm guessing it has everything to do with pinion angle...right?
1999' F350 7.3L 4x4
Crew Cab Long Bed
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I just bought my 2015 F350 long bed Platinum a month ago, and the first trip with my 12,000 lb. 5th wheel had a vibration when starting out, but only from a stoplight with some acceleration or an incline, not at level slow startup.
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My 2015 F-350 Super Duty has a noticeable vibration between 5 and 15 mph when accelerating with my 5th wheel. The 5th wheel is heavy--around 14000 pounds. The pin weight is heavy--around 3000 pounds. The Owner's Manual says on page 191 "When driving with a trailer or payload, a slight vibration or shudder may be present due to the increased payload weight..." (This was brought to my attention by my dealer.)
Seeing the thousands of F-250 and F-350 Fords pulling 5th wheels out there on the road, I wonder how many have this "slight vibration or shudder" and what they have done about it.
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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Late build 03 f350 auto, I got a p0500 code and noticed sometimes after 2rd-3rd gear engages theres a shudder or fast vibration for few secs unless i let off, it didn't start this till i took batteries out, where is the location of the vss at, I am seeing some say at each wheel, on top rear diff, on top back of trans so not real sure?
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On my ongoing project, I have a replacement trans out of an Explorer. I have swapped over the bracket and will be changing the shifter shaft, but I noticed that the new trans has what appears to be some sort of vibration damper mounted to the lower side of the tail shaft with 3 bolts.
It is just a bracket that has a cast weight mounted in rubber. It was not a mount of any kind as the only bolt connection is to the trans itself.
The trans I took out did not have one of these, nor can I find any mention of it in the factory manual. The Explorer I pulled the trans from was a 92, my Aerostar is a 91. It doesn't appear that this device will conflict with mounting.
It is possible that the whoever installed the trans that I have removed forgot to install the damper, or it is possible that it is used only on the Explorer but not on the Aerostar.
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I have a '95 Aerostar where the two lights are always on. I'd like to pull the codes if i can. Does this year has the RABS or the RABS II module. Or is the diagnostic connector the same?
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