Ford Aerostar :: Bad Shudder At About 30 To 50 Mph / CEL Comes On And Number 6 Misfire
Mar 25, 2012
I've been working on a 1996 aerostar van with a 4.0 for about a week now. Has a bad shudder at about 30 to 50 mph, check engine lite comes on and say number 6 misfire, when I first started working on the van it had cyl 1, 3 and 6 misfire put new plugs and wires on and it kept showing a number 6 misfire changed coil. Seem to work somehow, but they took it on a 260 mile round trip and used 34 gals of gas.
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I was wondering if brake vibration and shudder (all the way up to the steering wheel) could be caused by some loose joints and bushings in the front end suspension (like ball joints, tie-rods, etcetera).
Is it normal to grab a hold of the outer tie-rod end and to be able to twist it a bit? I have a vibration problem when braking, but I am thinking it has nothing to do with the brakes. I am thinking it is something abnormally loose on the front-end suspension.
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1999 ranger 155k 3.0 flex fuel. 304 is misfire in cyl number 4... I replaced the plugs and wires and checked the coil. the compression in cyl 2, 4, 5, 6 and got 80-90 psi so they are consistent but consistently bad right, it may be my compression tester.
The #4 plug was spotless after running 5 min, the #5 plug had some black on it already. Its hard to tell but it seems I had fuel residue on the plugs on cyl 5 and 6 but none on 4? Whats next pulling the intake to get to the injector?
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170,000 miles. Misfire on number 8. Spark at the plug. 185 psi compression. Pops and misses badly under light load. Smoothed out under heavy load/acceleration. 60 psi at rail ign on engine off. 55ish engine running at idle. The fuel pressure gauge does wiggle quite a bit (1 psi) very rapidly. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires were changed with no improvement. Is there anything you would try before changing the spider? I have not read the codes yet but I'm sure the usual suspects are there.
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My dad's 97 dodge neon is showing a misfire in the number 4 cylinder. He replaced the spark plug but still getting that code and engine not running smooth. What other things could cause this? Engine has about 130,000 miles on it, had been running fine.
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Was driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
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I will add as many details as possible :
2000 f150 4x4 offroad package
5.4L with 131k on it
new Dorman intake manifold
new Global Automotive (Ebay) COPs
New Motorcraft spark plugs
About 1500 miles ago I started throwing a code signifying a cylinder 3 misfire. The truck would bog down real bad and then after 5-6 seconds of no power it would return to normal. I tried replacing the COP (both with new and then with one from another cylinder) and plugs but no resolution. So I talked to the local ford service manager and he said it sounded like intake manifold problems.
Replaced the intake manifold and no more codes were being thrown.
1500 miles later and today the truck started having a hesitation/shudder when I was sitting in a drive-thru. I put the truck in neutral and park and neither solved the issue. With the earlier issue, when I would put in neutral and increased rpm, the issue would resolve.
I pulled out of the drive-thru and the hesitation was consistent no matter what the rpm or speed. The truck feels almost sluggish and lacks power. The hesitation is like 2x/second. When accelerating its almost like the rpms and speed hesitate, jump, hesitate, jump.
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So I dropped my prius off to get looked at for error code p0301 number 1 cylinder missfire. They ruled out Spark plugs, coils and fuel injector. What else is ther? Also could it be the battery or even gas?
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2006 PT Cruiser Touring Ed. The engine light came on 2 days ago, had it looked at today and the error code p0304 "cylinder number four misfire" was diagnosed. What causes that and what would need to be done to fix that problem?
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I've had the plug wire for my #4 cylinder burn out twice in the last 6 months. The car started running like crap and threw a CEL, the code was for a number #4 cylinder misfire. When I pulled the wire it has obvious signs of being burned out, like white powder and burn spots near the base of the wire where it goes over the plug. The plug and coil both look normal. No issues with the other cylinders. What could cause it?
This is on my '05 Santa Fe, 2.7l, FWD auto, with 180k miles
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Replaced pass side cyl head 7 years ago and now I've a misfire on cyl 1. Did wires and plugs as a matter of routine. Giveaway was rust deposit on rad cap. I always keep a strong coolant mixture and the rad is fairly new. Did a cyl pressure differential test and had bubbles coming out of rad. Funny thing is that had a rough few seconds on start, then smooth from then on. Getting my self fired up to tackle it. Have full gasket set and head bolts. Got a new head today. Am at 470k miles now.
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2001 f250 v10 6.8l runs a little rough at idle, low rpm is ok between 1700 and 3000 rpm but around 3 it starts to shudder while driving let off gas get back on its fine, new plugs 1,000 miles ago has throttle body spacer and cold air intake, stock everything else..
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My 96 4wd 4.0 Auto has a consistent misfire in the #6 cylinder. I've change out the plugs and wires and am considering changing the fuel injector for that cylinder. Looking it over last night, got me wondering if there is a way to change out the fuel injector without removing the upper intake manifold and the entire fuel rail. As you all know, these things are a beast to work on when the engine is in place. So, is it possible? Inquiring minds want to know (and don't want to spend an entire weekend changing out on fuel injector if there is an easier way )
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I've got a 96 Aero with 128k miles. It's AWD with the 4.0L. It's developed an annoying "stumble" on startup. The engine seems to misfire a bit and the car shakes. It goes away when I give it some gas and/or start driving. This started out being very occasional but eventually started happening at least once a day. It doesn't seem to happen with the engine very cold or very warm. It mostly happens when the engine is "lukewarm" (having sat for about an hour). So far, it hasn't died on me. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through and it went away for about a week, but then returned (but not as bad). No stored codes. Within the last 10k miles I have had done:
Compression test (passed) about 10k ago
New plugs, wires
New fuel pump
New water pump
New fuel filter
Tranny rebuild
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1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
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Well I was afraid this was going to happen. About a two years ago, several months after I replaced the heads on the van that at the time was my brothers, the ignored a squeaking pulley. One day that pulley seized and broke the belt. My brother was not watching the gauges closely, and didn't realize anything was wrong other than the clunk noise that happened when the belt was thrown. That was until he went to turn, and the power steering was gone. He looked at the gauges at that point, and the heat was pegged out on the gauge. So he pulled it over and shut it down. I came and towed him to a shop where it could be fixed.
But I fully understand that when an engine gets overheated, especially if the heat build up was rapid, the heads warp. I also understand that the head gasket will usually seal anyway, so the failure does not often happen at the time of the overheat.
Well, it finally let go the other day. Started noticing a rough idle and an obvious misfire. Removed the cap and there is a steady stream of small bubbles when the engine is running. There is also more corrosion than should be in the cooling system for how recently the coolant was replaced.
It is not overheating right now, but isn't this a lovely time for a major problem to occur. Anyway, I took it in, and hopefully they will have it finished before I need it again. My van performs truck roles, including towing and all of my fathers trucks are either too small or on deaths door. I'm sure it would drive most of you nuts anyway, but do not ignore squeaking pulleys.
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I had recently purchased a 2003 golf gti AUTOMATIC (with optional shifter) with a 1.8 turbo 4 cylinder engine. The vehicle has 139,000 miles on it. Before purchasing, I had a mechanic come out and look at the vehicle for a pre-purchase inspection, and ran the code P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) which without test driving, told me that is what caused the shift shudder I noticed when I had test driven it a previous day. He told me the coil packs were in good condition by looking at the top of them, and told me if I replace the spark plugs, the issue should go away.
I feel it is important to mention that he had also run codes on the transmission and nothing came up. Taking it home, this morning I had replaced the spark plugs and driven it for about an hour both regularly and aggressively to test it. The problem is still there, and I was really hoping that there is a solution to this problem, because everything else on the car is beautiful, while being my dream car, I just want it to work as well as I know it can. To be more descriptive, when shifting to 3rd the whole car feels basically like it is tripping over itself before successfully shifting.
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I'm looking at a pair of springs from a donor truck f250/350. The number on the spring is (rpn 0612 2c34 ca). How to decode this? I know it has an overload top spring. I'm looking for a two inch lift over stock springs.
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I am looking to install a new Message Center in my 2003 Excursion XLT. I have checked the vehicle for wiring and everything seems to be in the right places. I have ordered the Ambient Temp Sensor and that will just plug into the harness that is on my vehicle with a factory cap in place at the moment. However when I tried to order the message center, the dealer said it would be best to get the part number off one that is currently in a vehicle.
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While fixing some trans leaks on my 6.8. I was tightening a clamp on the center cooler and the lines must have rotted. It snapped off. I was having problems with both attachment points. So guess it's just time. Problem is I cant find a good part number to order one. I can't find it on Rock auto. Here is a picture if it. It's between the front and main radiator.
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My garage measures exactly 235" deep, and I would have to remove some shelving on the back wall to get it. I want a used F150 with an extended cab, and so due to the length restrictions, it needs to have a short bed.
One Used Truck dealer actually measured an F150 he had for sale, and it measured 228", which would have left 7" if I had bought his truck. So part of my question is if all F150's are the same length, do they vary by year, body style, etc..., but my main question is if it's possible to know the overall length of the truck just by having the VIN#.
Weeks ago, I found a particular "VIN Checker" website that gave me the length of one particular F150 based on the VIN#, but I didn't bother to save the VIN Checker website, and despite the fact that I've used several sites to check several trucks, the "overall length" specification has not been listed once, ever since.
So I don't know if there was something special about that particular site, or if the overall length spec is only available (via the VIN#) in certain years, on certain models, or what. So I'm asking.
The main reason is if I'm looking at a truck and I can get the VIN. Note I see other physical dimension specs all the time, width, etc... but length is the one that I DON'T see. I don't know if this is because the VIN checking websites don't have/can't get the information..
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