Bonneville :: Idling High In Park - ICS Plunger Not Moving?
Feb 2, 2012
I just started idling high in park and while driving I cleaned the throttle body and the ics but did not work I pulled the ics out and had some one turn the key on and off and the ics plunger does not move I can feel the ics motor moving but the plunger does not move while i had the ics out I pushed a rag in the ics hole to control the idle and the idle came down but the ics plunger still doe not move would that mean the ics is bad?
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Inherited a 2000 Saturn SL1 from my daughter. I has an issue of idling high. It idles about 1100 rpm in park, but when I put it in gear that jumps up to about 2000 or so. I can hit 35mph w/o hitting the gas. There's also a noticeable suffer type smell from the car.
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I am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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My Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
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My car has always done this since I've had it. When i go to shift into rev. from park, i get a slight jolt. It also does from park to drive and so on. Also, when I am driving and the transmission shifts, I also get a little bit of lag. I really hope my transmission isn't slipping. It is using a little bit of fluid but I am not 100 percent on that. Would doing a flush/ filter replacement work? I really know nothing about stuff like transmissions, so on.
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My car was running fine. I drove it 2-3 miles city & freeway a week ago to make sure. I was going to lend it to a friend and handed him the keys at a different location. When I got home he showed me that he was unable to move the car out of Park. I got in and the motor started fine. I checked and the battery was showing at the normal level,but I too could not budge the car out of Park. That was a few days ago.
Today I went out to start the car up and to my surprise, the battery is completely drained. The battery is only about 17 months old. I previously had had the motor rebuilt a couple of years ago and the car hasn't been driven but 2-3 thousand miles since.
What the problem may be? What kind of mechanic should look at it? (the friend admitted to pushing buttons but since I wasn't there I don't know if that was before he tried to move out of Park or after).
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My Pontiac also has oil on the engine now with the oil pressure at 120. It started at 40 then went to 60. I had the oil changed and they put 5w30 which they were not supposed to do. I wanted 10w30.
Is this a common problem with Pontiacs? Is there a non engine replacing solution? Will I have to tow it to the mechanic?
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My morning commute is about 33 miles. After about 30 miles, when I almost reach my destination, my 1992 Buick Century makes an additional noise besides the normal engine, muffler and road noise. It sounds like a BRRRRRRR....., but only when the car is moving, not idling. I thought it could be a temperature- related transmission issue. I noticed it was low on transmission fluid, so I added some. It still makes that noise, but only after I traveled about 30 miles. I didn't notice it last year when my commute was only 16 miles. What could cause it?
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When I turn on the A/C and am moving the temperature of the car is fine. It's only when I have the A/C on and am idling or moving very slowly that the car starts to overheat. It does not overheat at all, moving or at idle/slow, when the A/C is not on at all. Ok the truth is is that its bloody well hot here in New England and I sweat a gallon of water at every stop sign and stop light!
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When you put the car in park what exactly stops the car from moving. In other is it a brake of sorts or ??
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We brought our 09 SEL 4motion in for service (10K) and i had them look into a clunk when moving from Park to Reverse, it doesn't happen all the time and seems more common in the morning. It almost feels to me that the transmission is trying to engage too fast, like I'm hitting the gas and putting it into reverse. Anyway is this something that has popped up?
Also, they drove the car 40 miles for a 10k service which all I asked was about the terrible Sirius sound quality and that it "links" way too much. XM never seemed to do this in rentals I've had, nor sounded as bad (like a crappy internet MP3).
So I called and their answer is sort of acceptable that they feel they don't drive the cars enough to get the problem to occur, which in the times I've had problems with other car that required driving they didn't, but 40 miles to check the radio? And since it wasn't driven nicely the wife and I noticed the gas was very low.
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My 2007 Honda Fit (sport) has been having this problem for a while (6+ months)... It used to happen both while moving and idling.The car will suddenly make a jerking motion (like a lesser version of stalling a manual transmission car). No real sound involved, just the car shakes, sometimes a few times in a row. The engine does not stall, nothing else happens. Not being a really knowledgeable car person, I took it to a shop... they did a massive tune up on it (second time spark plugs were replaced in 30k miles)... $500 or so bucks later, the car works fine again... for 6 months... then it comes back, the "dry heaving" motion now only happens while idling... like sitting at a stop light. It does not happen in neutral. It does not happen in park. If it happens while moving it is much more subtle than it used to be.Car has 158,000 miles on it. Purchased it used at 89,000 miles. It has no codes, and has been checked a few times. It is an automatic transmission.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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I drove my 2005 Ford Focus 200 miles and parked it at the Kansas City airport for the weekend. When I got back after my weekend vacation, the car started but wouldn't move in reverse gear. I was able to disengage the parking brake. However I could feel that the park brake was not moving easily. I then forced the car in reverse a few feet even though there were some groans and noises coming from the back. I then put it on drive and drove forward to the kerb. I then tried reverse again and voila everything had come unstuck. It moved freely. I was able to drive back the 200 miles without problem. I checked the transmission fluid and it was good. Is this just a case of stuck brake or is it the beginning of major transmission problems? Fyi, I have an automatic transmission and there are only about 70000 miles on the car.
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I own a 99 Mk4 Golf 2.0L the issue I have been experiencing for almost a year now. Is that I'm getting a fuel odor smell every time the car is either idling or moving. My check engine light is on I have also noticed after pumping fuel the car has a difficult time turning on. It eventually turns on and runs .
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
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Does the 2015 GX 460 beeps when you're really near an object? Mine only alerts me when there is a moving object. I checked the lexus park assist and it's on but no alert. It doesn't alert when I'm reversing or when I'm driving forward when I'm parallel parking.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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This just recently started happening that after a few minutes at idle in park the engine turns off. I did install a DBALL remote start last fall but thats runs until the door is opened but the car wasn't started with the remote nor the door opened.
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