Honda - Fit :: 2007 - Suddenly Making Jerking Motion While Moving And Idling
Sep 15, 2015
My 2007 Honda Fit (sport) has been having this problem for a while (6+ months)... It used to happen both while moving and idling.The car will suddenly make a jerking motion (like a lesser version of stalling a manual transmission car). No real sound involved, just the car shakes, sometimes a few times in a row. The engine does not stall, nothing else happens. Not being a really knowledgeable car person, I took it to a shop... they did a massive tune up on it (second time spark plugs were replaced in 30k miles)... $500 or so bucks later, the car works fine again... for 6 months... then it comes back, the "dry heaving" motion now only happens while idling... like sitting at a stop light. It does not happen in neutral. It does not happen in park. If it happens while moving it is much more subtle than it used to be.Car has 158,000 miles on it. Purchased it used at 89,000 miles. It has no codes, and has been checked a few times. It is an automatic transmission.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX AT. Recently, while I am stopped at a Stop Sign or a Red Light, the car will suddenly start moving forward causing me to apply more pressure to the brakes. It also feels that the brake pedal is traveling a lot further now.
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When coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
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I have a 2004 Saturn LW with 6 cylinders. For the past few months, but only about one or twice per month, my car has been clunking jerkily when changing gears. There is no pattern, except that it happens at slower speeds, say mostly under 40 MPH both forward and in reverse, sometimes when I put the car into gear and sometimes when it changes automatically. Yes, you have guessed it, whenever I take it in, it acts just fine, and no one can get it to duplicate the bahavior.
Oh, the dashboard the the light indicating necessary service comes on whenever the gears clunk and the car jerks, but when it behaves, no indicator light comes on.
I have about 114,000 miles on the car. do I just need new transmission fluid, or is my transmission getting shot? Am I stripping gears? do I really need to wait until the mechanic hears it? Everything could be utterly destroyed by then, right?
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07 accent with transmission lurching.
As the auto trans heats up, the gears begin to get sticky. This creates a jerking motion as the engine downshifts while braking. It also happens at high speeds when attempting to downshift for acceleration.
Additionally, while shifting from park at hot temperatures, the transmission will take up to 15 seconds to engage into drive, and even more time (30-40 sec) to shift into reverse.
The car has recently (approx 6-8000 miles ago) had a complete transmission flush. The auto shop in town also suggested and did replace a sensor somewhere which supposedly had gone bad. But the problem persists...
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I have a 2007 passat and it makes a whistling sound while idling or when I am driving except for when I am actually pressing the gas. Additionally the EPC and check Engine lights came on. What the problem could be? This is my first VW and I am really just use to Honda.
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I have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
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My 2007 Honda Civic LX car horn suddenly stopped working after I had just used the horn a few minutes earlier. It does not work from the steering wheel and it does not work from the remote when I lock the car. The fuse seems to be OK (the horn seems to be on the same circuit as the brake lights and those are working).
I believe I can hear the relay under the dashboard clicking when I try to use the horn so I suspect that the horns are actually broken. But I was wondering how many horns the 2007 Honda Civic LX has? I have been told different things by different car mechanic/dealers. One said that it has only 1 horn and the other says it has two (one "high" and one "low"). What is correct?
If it has two horns I would be less inclined to think that both horns stopped working at the exact same time so it might just be a bad wiring or something What is reasonable to pay for repairing the horn at a mechanic?
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My wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
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I have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
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While driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
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A few months ago I had the passenger side Control Arm replaced. Over a year ago I had them both replaced with after market parts. I went into the dealer and was told the reason the parts failed so soon was because the parts were aftermarket parts and that I should have them replaced with original Toyota part. When the passenger side failed again, I had the dealer replace it with an original Toyota part.
Here's the problem: after they replaced the one side with an Toyota part I took my car and immediately when making a sharp turn to the right the vehicle making a jerking motion. It was unnerving the first time. It felt as if the vehicle might turn over. I noticed that this only happen or mostly happen when making a turn to the right.
Also, as I'm accelerating the vehicle will pull to the right the abruptly jerk to the left. What I was told by the dealer is that scene replaced the one side with a Original Part and the other side was an aftermarket part, the two not being of the same quality were what I felt he was saying that the parts were slightly different in size and would cause this problem.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few weeks ago, it started making a whistling noise whenever I was in reverse, however, it would stop when I hit the brakes. Then I notices a very similar noise while driving, again if I break, it stop. Also, if I go over 45mph or so, it stops. Just yesterday I notices a grinding noise/feeling when braking but only when the brake all the way down. What this could be?
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My 05 Explorer has started making a like slightly jumping motion and thumping sound when I let off the gas. It seems to maybe happen when it wants to gear down but it I give it the slightest gas it quits. Do you check the ans fluid when it's hot or cold? I checked it hot and it ran out.
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I have a 2001 Mazda 626. It has stopped unexpectedly while moving 2 times in the past 3 1/2 months. When it stopped (both times) it was mid-day, the a/c was on and I was moving at a low speed (between 5-15 mpg). When this happens, the gear shift locks up and the car won't move. Then after about 15-20 minutes it starts right up!
The car has been checked by my regular mechanic both times, who is terrific, and although he ran a diagnostic both times, found no electrical problem. He's convinced it's some kind of simple mechanical issue but hasn't be en able to diagnose what and isn't inclined to just start replacing any/all possible parts without a definitive reason.
The second time the car did this the Mazda dealership also did a full diagnostic and only reported "repairing" a couple of the battery wires, did not replace anything.
No one knows what's wrong but if the problem isn't resolved soon I will have to get another vehicle because I no longer feel safe in the car.
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I just started idling high in park and while driving I cleaned the throttle body and the ics but did not work I pulled the ics out and had some one turn the key on and off and the ics plunger does not move I can feel the ics motor moving but the plunger does not move while i had the ics out I pushed a rag in the ics hole to control the idle and the idle came down but the ics plunger still doe not move would that mean the ics is bad?
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My morning commute is about 33 miles. After about 30 miles, when I almost reach my destination, my 1992 Buick Century makes an additional noise besides the normal engine, muffler and road noise. It sounds like a BRRRRRRR....., but only when the car is moving, not idling. I thought it could be a temperature- related transmission issue. I noticed it was low on transmission fluid, so I added some. It still makes that noise, but only after I traveled about 30 miles. I didn't notice it last year when my commute was only 16 miles. What could cause it?
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1999 CR-V with 70k miles. Just noticed a slight constant scraping sound when car is in motion. I had a friend drive the car in a tight circle around me while I stood in a parking lot and was able to isolate the sound to the front right wheel. Sounds like a caliper dragging on the brake disk. Brake pads have plenty of meat left on them. So far, these are the possible causes I can think of:
caliper piston sticking in bore
caliper not sliding freely on caliper pins
brake hose restriction not allowing piston to retract
I had never heard of a brake hose restriction not allowing a piston to retract, but I just read an online forum comment where someone was having a similar problem, and someone else said it was possible for an old brake hose to look fine on the outside but be swelled on the inside, thus restricting fluid flow. And can something like a stuck piston be remedied with grease, or does the whole caliper have to be replaced?
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When I turn on the A/C and am moving the temperature of the car is fine. It's only when I have the A/C on and am idling or moving very slowly that the car starts to overheat. It does not overheat at all, moving or at idle/slow, when the A/C is not on at all. Ok the truth is is that its bloody well hot here in New England and I sweat a gallon of water at every stop sign and stop light!
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Last night when Ian was driving to my house on a small highway, going about 50MPH, his car suddenly started losing speed and quickly dropped down to around 30. When he tried to accelerate, it would make a lot of noise and effort but the speed would only increase by maybe a mile per hour or so and then drop down even more, until within a minute or so he was convinced that the car was going to just stop moving if he didn't pull over and shut off the engine. At this point he had close to a quarter tank of gas according to his gas gauge.
On the side of the road, he checked the engine's levels and the only thing he found that was unusual was that the oil was pretty low even though he had checked it just a week or two ago. I buzzed down and brought him some motor oil, but when he tried to start the car again it just clicked over on the driver's side of the engine. Not sure if this is a symptom or a function of having left the flashers on for 20 minutes while he was waiting for me. After we got it towed to my apartment complex, the tow truck driver jumped the battery to try to drive it about 10ft into a parking spot.
In order to keep the car running he had to pump the gas and brake back and forth. One other thing I noticed there was that in reverse, the car seemed to move fine, but once he put it into drive it took a lot of finesse and some very scary sputtery noises to coax it into moving forward. It was like the parking brake was on but 2x as hard. Also the gas gauge now read empty, which could have been an electrical thing. The tape deck also spontaneously turned on.
This reminds me a bit of when I had my last junker and the alternator needed replacing, but he just replaced the alternator 2-3 years ago so it seems unlikely and annoying that it would have gone south again so fast.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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