I have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
View 15 RepliesYesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
View 3 RepliesI have a very well maintained 2005 honda odyssey with 150,000 miles on it. It typically gets 22 m.p.g. It started using an unusual amount of gas - was getting 12 m.p.g. Took it to the mechanic and turned out the gas pump was cracked. We replaced the gas pump and the gas line, and it was getting 14 m.p.g. Took it to another mechanic, and he said that the spark plugs were the problem as they were not official Honda spark plugs (we replaced them at around 110,000 miles). So we installed the official Honda spark plugs, but still no good. I have visited several mechanics and no one seems to know.
View 7 RepliesReplaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
2003 Toyota Matrix with 217,000 miles (most on a rural mail route). Check engine light stays on with readings for multiple misfires, all four coils (which have all been replaced) and just replaced fuel pump. Gas mileage has plummeted.
View 16 RepliesJust replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
View 3 RepliesI had to have 2 of my coils replaced a few weeks ago... since I got it back, the car is not as responsive as it used to be... I noticed it when i first got it back... it went away, and now it feels that way again. When I hit the gas (Floor it), its like it has to think about whether it wants to produce full power. Can even see the RPMs hesitate just a little.
View 12 RepliesI just bought a 2001 Buick Lesabre and it was driving fine until this morning when it misfired on the highway. I was going about 40 mph and I felt a little jerk in my engine and my CEL started to flash. I pulled it over and got it towed to my house and my code reader says a p0300...which is a random misfire code. So I figured i just need a tune up so I went and bought new plugs and wires and replaced the old ones. And to my surprise...still a noisy shakey rough erratic start and idle. Before this there were no problems the car shifted properly to all gears and picked up and accelerated like a champ there were no obvious issues. Now I cant get it out of my driveway. I was wondering if any other problems could cause this misfire, and how to eliminate problems without buying parts?
View 19 RepliesMy Hyundai w/119K has been sitting up just moving it out of the driveway for my other 2 cars every day...but I used to drive it 60 miles a day back and forth to work since I bought it ...
Have all the parts to do timing belt change new timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, new tensioner spring and new tensioner just waiting for it to cool down here in Florida to work on it ...
When I stopped driving daily it the A/C compressor stopped working needs a new compressor so I will also do that with a friend that's an auto mechanic as well as timing belt etc.
Ok now to make a long story short in the process of just moving around the driveway the lifters began making loud clicking sounds so I changed oil (synthetic 10W30) and hyundai oil filter and clicking seems to have really almost gone away...
So that's probably taken care of well the check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and today I had code read and it was a misfire so I changed out 4 spark plugs NGK BKR5E-11(6953) and took it a test drive and it no longer stumbles and drives strong and I honestly do not think the wires or coils are bad and I do not think its misfiring any longer.
CEL is still on--- will it reset itself or can I reset it (without OBD reader)
Can the battery be disconnected & will that reset CEL
Apparently my car likes to have the mileage put on it and has more problems sitting up then being run all the time!!
My 2007 Honda Fit (sport) has been having this problem for a while (6+ months)... It used to happen both while moving and idling.The car will suddenly make a jerking motion (like a lesser version of stalling a manual transmission car). No real sound involved, just the car shakes, sometimes a few times in a row. The engine does not stall, nothing else happens. Not being a really knowledgeable car person, I took it to a shop... they did a massive tune up on it (second time spark plugs were replaced in 30k miles)... $500 or so bucks later, the car works fine again... for 6 months... then it comes back, the "dry heaving" motion now only happens while idling... like sitting at a stop light. It does not happen in neutral. It does not happen in park. If it happens while moving it is much more subtle than it used to be.Car has 158,000 miles on it. Purchased it used at 89,000 miles. It has no codes, and has been checked a few times. It is an automatic transmission.
View 5 RepliesThe car crank up normally, but when idling it misfires on #3 cylinder. When start to drive it will drive at 45 mph at full revolution but when I stop at a light the engine begins to vibrate and shakes the entire car. When moving off again, it continues to vibrate and hesitate and will not get up back in speed 25-30 mlp and now start to backfire in to the manifold. While stepping on the gas it also makes a popping sound. If I try to get the speed up any higher it will violently makes a popping sound and backfiring constantly into the manifold and struggles to go. The engine is also getting very hot although the engine gage said it normal and not overheating. If the car is sitting in a grassy area while idling it will completely burn dry the grass underneath.
View 12 RepliesMy 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
View 9 Replies1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee with 225,000 miles (hooyah!) on an I-6 . After driving for long distances (at least an hour on the road) then idling for extended periods of time, it seems it starts misfiring. RPMs drop to about 500 and will not rev past 1200 without dying completely.
This has happened a few times in the following scenario:We have 3 kids and often visit family out of state. We'll drive for several hours before pulling off at a rest area. To minimize the amount of time spent off the road and to save the hassle of unloading/loading all the kids, we'll leave the car running (to keep heat/cool air in) and either myself or my wife will run in to use the restroom and get snacks. The vehicle may idle for 10 minutes before the issue presents itself. It seems that if we turn the vehicle off and rest for a few (3-5) minutes, the problem will resolve itself and we can be on our way with no more issues.
Check Engine light is on but only throws a code for an EVAP leak. I don't know a whole lot about cars. I thought it could be time to replace spark plugs but this issue doesn't happen often and it seems only in these specific circumstances.
I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
My husband just replaced the spark plugs in my 2005 prius with 174,000 miles (also replaced the right headlamp bulb). When I started the car, the PROBLEM check engine light Hybrid Warning Light came on.
Owner's manual says take it to the Toyota dealer. The dealer is 50 miles away. Is it safe to drive it the 50 miles? It drove okay up and down my driveway.
1989 Nissan pathfinder. 6cylinder - VG30i - Manual trans
Engine was misfiring (running okay but putt, putt, putting) so I pulled be plugs to check for signs. Other than wear and wide gap the plugs looked okay, but I installed new plugs as they're cheap and I was already pulling them. I replaced them one at a time so didn't mix up the wiring. I went to restart the engine and now it turns over and starts but then immediately dies. If I really slam on the pedal I can get it to rev up a couple times, but it really wants to completely die right away. It'll start but won't run
- I took the battery lead (neg) off for a few days - maybe that reset something?
- I had a very empty gas tank - so low that I thought it might be out of fuel. I put two gallons in just to make sure. Because I can slam on the gas and get it to revving I'm not sure being out of gas is the issue.
- I removed the distributor cap to check for wear but reinstalled (picture attached).
- I sprayed some Mass airflow sensor cleaner into the throttle body to clean up, the throttle body valve blade was pretty clean.
- I'm doing this test without the air filter in. The old one was so dirty I removed it and didn't bother putting it back on. Going to buy a new one today.
- It cannot pass smog due to this misfire (obviously not detonating fuel so it's polluting)
- The engine was start up readily before I started tinkering. It would seem strange that adding new plugs
- I didn't gap the plugs.
Next steps :
- Look for any wires knocked loose or hoses disconnected.
- Pull the error codes (check engine light is on cuz, it's not running)
- Check Vacuum and diagram and hoses.
- Check ignition system wires.
- Check fuel pressure.
- Check Cylinder Compression.
Ultimately I'm trying to tune it up (and fix misfire) anyway, not just change the plugs, so doing more diagnosis is okay. It's also not my primary car. I haven't worked on cars in a while so I'm a little rusty and also needing to get necessary tools to complete the tasks. But it's fun I hope I can get this car running well again soon.
I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
View 7 RepliesNissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
View 16 Replies