Nissan - Altima :: 1999 - When Idling It Misfires On Cylinder 3
Sep 20, 2014
The car crank up normally, but when idling it misfires on #3 cylinder. When start to drive it will drive at 45 mph at full revolution but when I stop at a light the engine begins to vibrate and shakes the entire car. When moving off again, it continues to vibrate and hesitate and will not get up back in speed 25-30 mlp and now start to backfire in to the manifold. While stepping on the gas it also makes a popping sound. If I try to get the speed up any higher it will violently makes a popping sound and backfiring constantly into the manifold and struggles to go. The engine is also getting very hot although the engine gage said it normal and not overheating. If the car is sitting in a grassy area while idling it will completely burn dry the grass underneath.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima. When I am sitting at a light, there is sometimes a shudder that runs through the vehicle. If I put it in park while at a light, it doesn't happen. Also, when I'm accelerating, there is a sound like a rattling growl coming from the front right of the vehicle.
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I'm having two slightly strange issues with a 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S...
First, after driving for about 30 minutes on warmer/hot days (above 85 degrees) the temperature gauge starts rising and then the A/C starts blowing out hot air for a while. After a minute or two the temp gauge goes back down and the A/C goes cool again. The only reason I bring it up is this something new that has never happened before, even in the hottest summers and it only happens when it over 85/87 degrees.
Second issue is a bit stranger... After driving for 20-30 minutes the car will start "jumping". It feels like the engine loses a cylinder and then it kicks back on. It almost feels like the car is stuttering, if that makes any sense. This happens intermittently and only after driving for a slightly extended period of time. It also seems to be independent of the speed at which I am traveling. I took it to the Nissan dealer and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem and couldn't really look into anything because the Check Engine light was not on, so they had no code to go by, or something to that effect.
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I have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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My mom has a 1999 Nissan Altima. Lately, when you barely press the gas the car kind of "bucks" almost like it is bogging down until you apply more gas. Also, there is a bad vibration in the steering wheel. We have had several different people look at the car and no one can quite figure out what it is. So far we have replaced the brakes, calipers, stabilizer link, master cylinders, tye rod, one boot also put on brand new tires. One person thought it might be the EGR but we cleaned it and it appears to be working.
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My 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
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I replaced the brake shoes on my 99 Altima for the first time yesterday. Never done this job before. It went well except on the driver side, when I was pushing the piston back in to insert the new shoe, a little brake fluid leaked out of the seal on the wheel cylinder. Is this normal? I plan to check the brake fluid level over the next few days to see if it goes down. I'm worried I could have a dangerous leak.
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1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.
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2003 F-250 SD 4x4 w/5.4L engine and 4R100 trans (pic in sig) . Truck has 280K on it with about 40K on a partial rebuild on the top end.
Took the truck out offroading and got about 4" from the top of the 33" tire in water (not mud.. water) . Someone with 6' tractor tore through the puddle.....
Well the truck survived through it ... albeit dirty as all hell and developed some issues soon thereafter. Codes for misfires on cyl 1,3,6,7, general ignition coil, etc etc etc
Power washed the underbody , washed the mud off the engine bay (yeah... with water but given it was caked with mud and water to fill the plug wells... no additional harm) .
Replaced all 8 COP and 4 plugs ( easier ones to reach), oil change, oil filter, new paper cone filter. checked most all the harness connections and cleaned with alcohol also. Reset the PCM/ECU and drove the truck for about 100miles and finally just after putting a full tank of gas (92 Octane) I throw a P0325...
The engine runs very clean, no hesitation, smooth idle, smooth acceleration on both light and hard acceleration. Just the damn code. Is it the gas I just topped off? After 100+ miles with new COP and plugs it threw nothing until this and runs great. Dont hear any knock/ping/detonation by ear and feels silky smooth at idle.
I really dont want to have to tear the intake off to replace bank 1 knock...
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5.
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How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
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2005 Prius 195k miles, oil changes every 5k +/- 500 (usually minus), new plugs at about 187k, TSBs for coolant loop done, coolant valve for ICE replaced on my dime, replaced aux battery in 2010. Transaxle fluid changed at 100k and 190k due to noise, but that is another post.
I mostly do my own work because, in general, I find dealerships to charge too much (like one hour to change the aux battery) or not competent (like changing the traction battery under warranty but leaving the seat belt behind the panel or not resetting the maintenance light during 5k Toyota covered maintenance)
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I have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
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My 2004 F-150 Heritage with the 4.6 was running great until yesterday. Went in the store and left it idling, when I came back out it had died. First time it has ever done this. I started it and it started right up but misses bad. Checked it out and found all 4 cylinders on the drivers side are dead. The check engine light is on and the overdrive off light on the shifter is on. It will start right up and everything else is fine, oil pressure, coolant, etc.
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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I have a 2002 Elantra that has been in shop 3xs for same thing. The car says it is missfiring on 1 and I have changed wires, coil pack and spark plugs with no success.
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I have a 2004 f-150 5.4 Trition v8 and recently i had misfires on 5 and 6 come up. After I changed out the coils and injectors on all the cylinders the misfire would still come up.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
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