Nissan - Altima :: 1999 - Brake Fluid Leak When Changing Shoes?
Sep 6, 2011
I replaced the brake shoes on my 99 Altima for the first time yesterday. Never done this job before. It went well except on the driver side, when I was pushing the piston back in to insert the new shoe, a little brake fluid leaked out of the seal on the wheel cylinder. Is this normal? I plan to check the brake fluid level over the next few days to see if it goes down. I'm worried I could have a dangerous leak.
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I replaced the MAF a week ago but the code P0100 is still there. Car runs fine in the highway but I do notice acceleration issues. I got the knock sensor but I cannot find it in my nissan altima (2000). The car shakes while stalling, at a red light, and pretty much as soon as I stop. Putting the car in N will work a bit but won't stop the shaking. Should I focus on the MAF again or should I keep trying to replace the KS? Where it is?
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I have a 13 Altima and have been hearing a clunk/pop sound when coming to a stop and sometimes when changing from park to drive and park to reverse. It seems to also be there when accelerating too and the car is also seem to be vibrating when moving at lower speeds. Today i noticed something else. I parked the car and took the key out. I went to the side of the car and slowly rocked it back and forth and started to hear this clunk sound. I have uploaded it to youtube and can be found here [URL].... . After hearing the sound, I decided to take the driver wheel off and noticed it makes the same sound when i move the tires. It seems to be coming from the CV joint, where it connects to the transmission. why would a car make that clunk sound with the car/key off and swayed back and fourth? does this seem like a CV joint issue or something related to the transmission.
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I have 2005 Nissan Altima which I bought when nissan did an overall makeover. It has 102k miles on it. Offlate I am observing that when the car is shifting gears (automatic), I hear kind of some fluid moving through near the front passenger seat. I looked under the seat and the searched the whole car to see if there is a half empty water bottle thats making the sound. I dont see it though. Am I looking at some problem?
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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Is it possible that my break pedal was frozen this morning? I pulled out and drove the 1/4 mile up my shared driveway. When I tried to stop at the top of the road, my break pedal wouldn't move. I think the van that I pulled out in front of was just as surprised as I was! It was 12 degrees here, but I've never heard of such a thing.
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I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
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I changed over to summer tires today on my 1999 4wd F350 diesel . While the front tires were off of the ground, I tried rotating the wheels by hand to see what the resistance was like. I was surprised at how stiff they were. It would take three fingers to rotate the wheel and as soon as I stopped applying pressure the wheel stopped turning. I pulled the rims off and found that the calipers appeared to be contacting the rotors and causing resistance.
My last rig was a 1960s 4wd F250 that had calipers that could be adjusted manually. I kept these adjusted so the calipers were almost touching the rotors. I could spin the rims with one finger and the wheel would turn for 30 seconds or so until coming to a stop. Is this normal?
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I have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
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I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
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The car crank up normally, but when idling it misfires on #3 cylinder. When start to drive it will drive at 45 mph at full revolution but when I stop at a light the engine begins to vibrate and shakes the entire car. When moving off again, it continues to vibrate and hesitate and will not get up back in speed 25-30 mlp and now start to backfire in to the manifold. While stepping on the gas it also makes a popping sound. If I try to get the speed up any higher it will violently makes a popping sound and backfiring constantly into the manifold and struggles to go. The engine is also getting very hot although the engine gage said it normal and not overheating. If the car is sitting in a grassy area while idling it will completely burn dry the grass underneath.
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My 1987 Nissan Sentra has a transmission leak. The leak is from a bad gasket from the center part of the Trans. How to replace or fix this gasket without taking out the Trans. ( Just so we are clear-this is not the Trans pan)
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I am going to have to change my brake pads (I am probably going to do the rear shoes as well). I was wondering if I should get my Toyota dealer to change the fluid as well. I have 116,000 miles on her. Lots of highway driving, and this is only the first replacement set, these pads last forever. The fluid has never been changed before.
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My mom has a 1999 Nissan Altima. Lately, when you barely press the gas the car kind of "bucks" almost like it is bogging down until you apply more gas. Also, there is a bad vibration in the steering wheel. We have had several different people look at the car and no one can quite figure out what it is. So far we have replaced the brakes, calipers, stabilizer link, master cylinders, tye rod, one boot also put on brand new tires. One person thought it might be the EGR but we cleaned it and it appears to be working.
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My 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
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I'm having some issues with my brake fluid going low every 2-3 weeks. I get the 3 beeps on the brake light and the flashing. Sometimes it's constant and flashes 15+ times. Sometimes it comes and goes throughout the day or even the week. After I fill up my fluid, it's fine. Usually, have to fill up a pretty good amount though. Almost a whole small bottle sometimes.
Obviously I'm having a leak but I'm not sure where. I'm a noob when it comes to brakes. My brakes work fine, clutch feels fine, etc.. I read around and was told it could be the clutch slave cylinder leaking, but is this common on the O2M? I looked at the lines around the master cylinder and nothing seems to be leaking. Also, I'm not noticing any brake fluid on my shoes or in the cabin. Any tips on what to check, what's common? Are the leaks most likely going to be in the engine bay?
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The leak appears to originate somewhere around the master cylinder but I cannot locate the exact spot.
I noticed the problem when I started the car and it began to generate white smoke in the drivers side. I also knew it was not oil or ATF because brake fluid smells different. I pulled the cover by the master cylinder (MC) and could see an area that was wet under the MC.
I may have a reservoir leak but I cannot pinpoint at this time. Photos will be provided later if I can take some that show the issue.. I do know they are expensive and I do know that Toyota and Lexus recalled several models for a leaky reservoir.
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Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
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I had been driving around with gallons of ATF in my trunk for a year until I recently had the power steering pump changed on my 1996 Toyota Camry (which spent many winters sitting outside up in Canada), and now the leak seems worse. I brought it to my mechanic who wants $800 to change a leaky rack & pinion and a hose. But I am but a poor, unfortunate grad student and so I have no more money to put on this old, yet beloved car! So he suggested I put in a combination of ATF and brake fluid, which might slow down the leak. What say you? Will I ruin my newly acquired power steering pump or make matters worse?
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Wrestled with them for a while today to no avail. Can't get the big spring under the lever thingy. I hate drum brakes. I don't have the special tool to pull axles on my sterling.
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
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