Buick - LeSabre :: 1994 - Revving Up To 2000 RPM At Idle When Car Started
Aug 11, 2014
My Buick has started acting weird and I've had a hard time figuring out what's going on. As I understand it 94' was the transition year for the OBD1 and OBD2 sensors, therefore auto zone and o'reilly haven't been able to pull codes on my car. It runs off of OBD1 codes but has 16 point OBD2 sensor pins.
Here's the problem: When the car is started it revs up to 2000rpm at idle, when shifted into neutral the rpm jumps up to 3500. In drive and reverse it goes back down to 2000rpm. While driving the car is hard to stop and surges when I take my foot off the break, it also gains speed on flat ground without touching the gas pedal. After driving the car when I put it back in park it revs back up to 3500rpm and is quite noisy.
I've replaced the mass airflow sensor, cleaned out the entire throttle body (there was a little carbon build up but not too bad), replaced all the vacuum hoses(that put a stop to it for about a week), and I'm still having the same problems. I recently replaced the a/c pump because the bearings went bad but I don't think that would cause any problems like this.
I have a very, very slight gasket leak on my valve covers but it's been like that for the last few months and the car was acting fine. The car has done this before but it usually stops after you drive it somewhere. The hotter it's gotten out the more often it started happening and now it's not stopping like it did before.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
View 1 Replies
I have a 1994 Buick LeSabre Limited with a 3800 engine.When the engines cold,it starts fine and drives fine.When it reaches operating temp,if you shut it off. It will crank but not start back up until its cold again. I've replaced the crank and cam sensors but no change.
View 2 Replies
Since our weather has turned cold with lows just above 0ºF and highs around 10ºF, and we've had 9" of snow this week, I have been driving a seldom used 1994 LeSabre rather than my "nice" car, an '08 Grand Marquis. There's no point in exposing the newer car to salt and slick streets. At least the interstates are completely cleared off. The LeSabre runs great despite its 177K miles. The only issue I have with the Buick is that it has died repeatedly after a 20 mile run up or down the interstate. I lift my foot or tap the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control, and the engine dies. The first time it did it, I pulled over, stopped, put it in park and restarted it. Now that I know what it's doing, I keep rolling, put it in neutral, and restart it before getting to the bottom of the ramp. I does it ALMOST every time after a long 65 to 70 MPH run. It was not doing it the last time I drove it at more bearable temperatures, in the 40s or 50s so it may not be a problem next week. It does not seem to do it going from stop light to stop light, even at low temperatures. It has the 3.8 Liter V-6. Why it might be doing this?
View 10 Replies
I have a 94 buick lesabre custom that is stalling intermittently and runs rough intermittently. We have had it for diagnostics and it could not read the codes. We changed the computer and it still can't read the codes. The diagnostic tool says it cannot connect when it is plugged in or it displays white flecks like snow flakes on the tool screen. It is an OBDII. The pin structure of the data connector port is two pins top row and bottom row two pins some blanks and one pin. We don't know how to fix it with no diagnostic codes and we don't know what to do to get the codes because we have changed the computer.
View 8 Replies
After I start my Lesabre when cold, after about 15 minutes or so it starts idling high, usually about 1500 , but sometimes it's as high as 2300 while stopped at a light. And a few times it has been 3-4000 rpm after putting it into PARK. After it starts idling high it starts shifting late. If you shut the engine off and immediately restart it, it usually starts idling fine again temporarily. Engine has normal power and runs smooth and idles smooth. It has also randomly died a couple times while driving at 30-40mph but then immediately restarted as if there was no problem.
It has a P0121 code which is "throttle position sensor switch A circuit range/performance problem". It also has a P0420, "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) ", which I'm not sure is related to the issue because the check engine light had been on a long time before the idling/shifting issue started happening. Like in the neighborhood of a year and a half before the current issue, but it ran fine the entire time and got 30+mpg on the highway.
First thing I did to troubleshoot was to test the TPS and it seemed ok. Voltmeter readings were .4v with throttle closed and seemed to advance smoothly up to 4.4v at WOT. But, I tested it before the engine was hot and I don't have a Oscope. I then used some carb cleaner and shot it around the injectors and a few vacuum inlets to check for vacuum leaks, to no effect. Engine runs quiet and I don't really hear any vac leaks.
Next, I cleaned the idle air control valve which was pretty dang dirty, but that didn't seem to resolve the issue, although it may have had a slight effect because the issue seems to come and go some while driving now, but I'm not totally sure. I also tested the connector at the IAC and had voltage on all 4 pins between .4v - 11.4v approximately.
Lastly, I got the engine to reproduce the problem and then pulled and then reconnected these sensors one at a time while the engine was idling high:
MAF Sensor
TPS
IAC
Intake Air Temp Sensor
This didn't have the slightest effect on the engine... I'm thinking it might actually be the TPS or IAC but I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing damn near certain it's going to resolve the issue. Could a vehicle speed sensor cause this? How I should proceed from here? :?
View 14 Replies
I have a 1995 Buick Lesabre. The car jerks while I am driving or when idle as if it wants to shut off. Sometimes it jerks and then the check engine light comes on. When I described the problem to my mechanic he said that it might have been the fuel filter but then he said it might be an electrical problem. I would like to start with the fuel filter to see if that would work but I am not a mechanic nor am I an expert on cars nor do I want to spend tons of money on such an old car.
View 12 Replies
My car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
View 19 Replies
I have been to a few different repair shops for my 2000 Buick Le Sabre shimmy problem with no luck. I have a really bad shimmy, while accelerating between 45 and 50 mph, and it seems worse on an upgrade. Past 50 mph, it smooths out. Over the past several months, mechanics have checked the balance of my tires and rotated them, done front end alignment, rear alignment, replaced the right lower control arm, the right sway bar link and the right wheel hub. Still no luck, so it came down to the determination that it must be a bad tire. Now I have 4 new tires (it was soon time to get them anyway), and I still have the shimmy. What else can we look for? My local mechanics seems stumped. I have not taken it to a Buick dealership, however...
View 9 Replies
I have a 00 buick lesabre that I am having problem with no turn signals. It first started with the infamous fast blinker on drivers side, so i replaced all the bulbs , so when that did not fix the problem, i thought it was the socket, but it turned out ok, so i replaced the flasher and after that, I have no blinks at all, haz work but no blinkers. i tryed old flasher but still no blinkers. i checked the fuse that runs the blinkers, it was ok. I replaced it anyway.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2000 Buick Le Sabre and the car shakes when I step on the gas about 356mph and up. The steering wheel doesn't shake at all. I had my tires re-balanced twice but didn't work. Now a mechanic is telling me it might be the axle rod. How much will this cost? and is it a big job?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1991 Buick LeSabre, sometime last year the check engine light came on, and I took it into a mechanic who told me that a magnetic sensor on the timing gear broke off and that it is the problem with the car, but it would cost me 500 dollars to replace the part, because it is located in the engine. I noticed that the engine felt like it lost power, and the car started vibrating when I was idle. The beginning this year, I replaced the spark plug wires, and replaced the spark plugs, when I replaced the spark plug wires, I realized that two of the wires were broken, as soon as I was done.
I tested the car, and the power is back, but I still have the stalling problem. I will try to describe how the car stalls, I come to a stop, and when I push on the gas to accelerate, the car just conks out, so I have to restart the car, and rev it a little to keep it from conking out again, and it starts running normally. I have been told by another mechanic that I need to replace a Electronic Ignition Control module, which I can not find, and that it is possible the fuel is not getting into the chambers. I just want some answers to my problem, so the car will last me till I can get a new vehicle or something better.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1997 LeSabre with 180000 miles. I can drive the car for 4-5 miles before it stalls and then dies. the car will start to idle fast, then bottom out a couple of times before it dies. It also makes a horrible noise under the hood and sounds like the rods are all clanging together. Once it dies, it will not restart until it has sat there for 30-40 minutes. After sitting for some time, it will crank right up and then repeat the process again. My oil pressure is off the chart high and it stays there all the time. Does this have something to do with the problem of is that another problem all together? What is causing my car to die like this and how do i fix it?
View 5 Replies
I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
View 4 Replies
The car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
View 1 Replies
Just the other day I was driving my car till I've noticed the gears started slipping. At first it was having some issues shifting through the gears (automatic transmission btw). As soon as I got off the highway, I parked in a parking lot just to check underneath the hood. Everything looked fine, went to pull out of the parking lot, no reverse. The gears started to slip up really bad. I noticed that the RPM's kept on reving up and wouldn't go any faster than 20mph. I went to an advance auto parts to get automatic transmission fluid. Still having the same issue and no reverse either. I had to park the car at a location to get it towed back to my house. Some people are saying my transmission is bad, some say it could be a real simple fix. Where to start diagnosing this issue. The car was driving normally until last Monday. My question is where should I start to check and what can I do to see if the transmission is completely shot??
View 33 Replies
I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Accord with a 2.3L 4 cylinder and manual transmission. I just changed the timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, tensioner wheels and other external belts. I now get a bad engine vibration at idle and when backing up and pulling forward. The vibration is quite noticeable in the steering wheel. Revving the engine smooths it out at certain RPM's. I know this isn't right and its got to be limited to something I just did. I followed the instructions in the Honda service manual and thought that everything went back to gather correctly. I double checked the timing and balancer alignments. The motor mount on the drivers side is simple and all went back together correctly. Is there a way to verify correct timing belt and balancer belt alignments without tearing it all down again?
View 13 Replies
My 2000 Ranger (4.0L, V6, manual tranny) is acting weird in first and second gears as well as idle. I hear a ticking and then the engine revs. At idle, I see the tach needle move a little. While driving, the truck jerks. It's a smooth ride once I move into third gear.
View 14 Replies
I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
View 14 Replies
I have recently noticed that my car will stall out when I get up to about 20 mph. My car starts fine, no check engine light on. I has a tendency to just die in the middle of the road at times too. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new fuel filter. Do I need to change the mass air flow sensor? Or the crank position sensor? I have no problems starting the car either. Runs good when it runs.
View 10 Replies
